Nashville and Memphis

So I only had time to do the obvious stuff - Graceland, Sun Studios and Beale Street (went to BB King's club in the evening) - all of which I'd heartily recommend, unless you hate Elvis. Going to Sun was particularly mindblowing - standing in this little room where Elvis, Howlin' Wolf, Jerry Lee, Charlie Rich etc had all recorded did give me goosebumps. Nice people there as well.

Didn't got to Nasville, as much because it's not the rail network as anything.

I didn't do much in nashville since I had an ear-infection from an over-long stint in a guitar-shaped swimming pool. but there's the grand ol' opry theatre place...the country music hall of fame...the capitol...dollywood's a little further out, I guess.

sorry I can't give any nightspot/club/bar info.

I will consult with my raised-in-Memphis wife and report back.

Memphis - I don't recall anything about Memphis being remotely cool. Beale street to me just felt like a giant tourist trap.

The once-bustling Main Street ghost town area is a feature of many American towns. You get the sense that these areas of town peaked in the 1940s and 1950s. In some places they came back after the big shopping mall explosion but there are plenty of places where they didn't. You can see lots of these by car but not by train because there's no good rail system in and out of some of these places.

Memphis is more problematic. Beale Street was basically razed in the '50s and '60s, there's nothing much left down there. Schwab's is a store, though, on Beale, worth checking out, an amazing place. The Center for Southern Folklore is also good. But in general Beale St. is a ghost of its former self, don't go looking for the blues, you won't find it.

Go into the Peabody Hotel and see the ducks...and you can go up on the roof and see the city. The riverfront is not very developed. Downtown has improved greatly in the last ten years but it's pretty funky. But hey, it's not a sanitized town and that's its charm.

Midtown Memphis also has some cool stuff. The Cooper-Young area is also good.

A non-profit org. is building a museum down at E. McLemore and College, where the Stax studios stood before being torn down in '89. You can view the ongoing building efforts. It's a funky part of town so be careful--be careful there in general, everyone is crazy and there's lots of crime. You want the blues, right? Also near there, still operating, is Royal Recording Studios, Willie Mitchell's place, where Al Green made his classics.

On Madison Ave. near Overton Squre you can see Ardent Studios, where Big Star made their records; just west of there is the P&H cafe, a hangout for local theater and music people. Two good record stores: Shangri-La and Audiomania, near there. Burke's on Poplar is the best local book shop. Poplar Tunes are old-time record stores.

I went to Graceland a few times, always for free. It's not a good experience. Sun is worth stepping into, though, you kind of have to go there.

Best barbecue in a town known for it: Payne's; Cozy Corner; the Bar-B-Q Shop; Interstate.

Hope that helps. In coolness terms, both towns have a lot to offer, but Nashville is basically much more white, much more "sane," much more "upper south," whereas Memphis is all about the river, delta culture, black people, and so forth. I love them both but Memphis is the cooler of the two towns.

I grew up in Nashville as well, and my parents still live there (off Belmont Ave, on the same block as the Sound Emporium studio-- disingenuously marked with a "Sun Records" sign, but it has its own notable history). Edd mentioned the hipsterization of East Nashville, especially around Woodland and 11th, but it doesn't have anything to distinguish itself from three dozen American cities.

The area ringing the southern side of Vanderbilt University (Hillsborough Village and Elliston Place) is bland, reflecting the lameness and lack of intellectual curiousity of Vandy students, but I do recommend Centennial Park, off West End Avenue. The amalgam concrete Parthenon replica, especially its monstrous Athena statue it houses, is worth seeing, and adjacent to the park is the Springwater. I cannot recommend the Springwater highly enough. It is a rundown bar hidden behind a McDonald's, a cement shack painted with text proclaiming the joys of the food within-- all lies. But it does house a shambolic hootenanny, the Working Stiff Jamboree, that is endlessly entertaining, and serves generally as a community center for an assortment of local oddballs and alkies.

I also am fond of Nolensville Road, a low-rent district with a half-decent record store and a range of tasty and ridiculously cheap restaurants, southeast Asian, central American, and Mexican (and a fantastic Ethiopian place in a Quonset Hut).

I'll think of more. Gotta bust out right now.

The reason there's a Sun sign there at Sound Emporium is because that's where the Sun empire went after Shelby Singelton bought it. That's a nice part of town, I used to live there.

And he's correct about the area I mentioned east of the river...the Slow Bar and all that, it's all right but it's hipsterville and it is not different from what you could find in many another American city. The area just east of that, on lower Gallatin Pike, is a sleazy area, one of my friends works at a recording studio right there.

I haven't lived there since 1991; I haven't lived in Tennessee for about three years now. Nashville has changed a lot; there's a certain element of really idiotic, patriotic, Baptist-convention reality there that makes it a disconcerting place at times, and it's grown so quickly that it's become something of a mess. But that's probably just nostalgia, it's, overall, one of the better places to live in the region--the kinder, gentler Atlanta.

You haven't been to Dickerson Road.

How long would you recommend staying in Memphis?

And Nashville?

Mary: early/mid Sept is the idesa. That band are playing in the States again, plus I've had a hankering to see Nashville for a long time. Though Ben has scared me a bit by suggesting that it's maybe not the place to visit as a non-driver. Hm.

how easy is it to see without a car?

and where to stay?

Anyone needing Memphis tips is welcome to e-mail me.

http://www.arch.columbia.edu/DDL/cad/IP_SP99/students/Kerry/internet/jpeg/y_03.jpg

http://i.cnn.net/cnn/2002/TRAVEL/DESTINATIONS/08/13/ep.elvis.eateries/clickthrough.1.ext.arcade.jpg

Is the Peabody Hotel the best place to go for a drink (as my book says)?

it got all rainy again yesterday, so its kind of a relief to be back in nyc, where the weather is a little bit nicer.

i found it a bit of a strange town, it was really pretty empty it seemed. the hillsboro area was pretty bourgeois as stated upthread, the elliston place area less so, quite an impressive 2ndhand bookstore there, had a huge section on Andrew Jackson and a LOT of confederate literature. centennial/parthenon was good, but it was so rainy by then, we only saw the outside of springwater, ran out of time

we stayed on divisionst, music row. i thought this area was going to be a lot more bustling than it was. it was totally dead, but convenient i guess, halfway between vanderbilt and downtown, good for walking.

great escape at vanderbilt was a pretty good 2nd hand store, ernest tubbs in downtown was terrible, no selection at all!

we went over into east nashville, walked along woodland as far as 10th, but then we had to get back, so we got a bus back just one block before we hit the good part on 11th:(

in a strange way it reminded me of Bradford, or a northern uk industrial town, not quite sure how though!

the airport is nice

grimey's on 8th ave near wedgewood is the best record store in town probably. (although, the tower on west end is not a bad store, just overpriced.)

best book store = davis kidd on hillsboro... or bookman/bookwoman near vandy.

food:
boscos yes.
pancake pantry when you can stand a line.
noshville's if you want nyc deli food. (ubet!) holy waffles!
rusan's for sushi. yes, it's frozen, but the variety is amazing.
las paletas for mexican popsicles. (a MUST.)
calypso cafe for cajun+creole, etc.
baja burrito for california fresh burritos.
jasmines or royal thai for thai. thai taste rules but is far out.

say no to las palmas. it rules, but afterward, it will rule your lower end.

best venues: the end, mercy lounge, 5 spot, the basement, exit/in, springwater (was great, now in decline because of a noise ban.)... belcourt theatre (also good for movies.)

best park to kill time... dragon park across from vandy. the dragon play sculpture is worth seeing.

the frist art museum isn't awful. not AMAZING. but not bad either.
m.

sorry I didn't get to this thread earlier. I'm one of the grew-up-in-nashville ilxors too.

That's really one of the only things I would have recommended that wasn't already mentioned if I'd been here earlier.

There's another used vinyl/cd place called Phonoluxe which used to be almost classic but sadly now pretty much blows.

best venues: the end, mercy lounge, 5 spot, the basement, exit/in, springwater (was great, now in decline because of a noise ban.)... belcourt theatre (also good for movies.)

Ha ha ha Springwater! Awesome. Last show I played before I moved to Seattle was at Springwater.

Are any of these near Beale Street, or otherwise easy to find? Anyone have any other barbecue recommendations?

We'll be going sometime soonish, and because my future sister-in-law is at OleMiss, she'll come up there to meet us -- but while she might be a useful guide as far as some touristy things go, she's spent all but a year of her life in eastern Washington and doesn't known damn about barbecue, so I'm not about to trust her on that score.

I'll kick myself if I don't get good barbecue in Memphis -- I've spent way too long now in places where "barbecuing" means "cooking burgers on the grill" -- but I know a lot of the legendary places are reputed to have become sub-par tourist traps.

I am so sorry for her.

I forgot I mentioned this! Although I don't think Martin M. posts here anymore. But um yeah, the show is Sunday at The End.

Yeah, that was my reaction too (my ex applied there, and we crossed fingers she would get in somewhere better, cause neither of us wanted to live there). But she works for the athletics department, so from that perspective I guess it was a pretty good choice.

almost literally

http://www.elvis.com/webcams/webcam3.jpg

*I'm totally out of good beer.

Oh, and man, if it was during the season, we could go to a Memphis Redbirds (minor league baseball) game.

Redbirds games are indeed a blast and Graceland Too located in Holly Springs btw Oxford and Memphis is a must-see.

Change of plans, I'm afraid -- we're not going to be able to go to Memphis the week of my sister-in-living-in-sin's graduation as planned. But we're committed to going this summer, in case L gets the D.C. job she's trying for and we hightail it out of the Midwest.

Assuming your email's good, I'll email you when we know what's what?

(In minor league news, though, I saw Schilling pitch against the Indy Indians!)

I still haven't gone to West Memphis. But there's always Abita Amber, and Sam's in Tupelo has started selling Guinness.

I just realized I haven't been to a baseball game of any kind since Cards-Giants in 1999. Waah!

We will fix that. Baseball's perfect for filling the gap between "so there's this Bosnian place I was thinking about for lunch..." and "so for dinner, how about we check out this sandwich joint I read about...", especially since there's no way I can afford Graceland. And L's becoming a big fan, despite it raining every time we go to a game together.

Last time I went back to Memphis, Cozy Corner's barbecue sandwich was just as good as ever--the man who started the place died a few years ago. The Rendezvous is overrated. For my money, the three best places are Cozy Corner, BBQ Shop on Madison in Midtown, and Interstate. Payne's has the best cheap sandwich. They've spiffed up downtown, and the city has more to offer now, even as it becomes more and more a museum...

Memphis smells bad, but in a good way. It really stinks though.
I've never noticed this. And I didn't grow up there, so it wouldn't be a matter of familiarity desensitizing the olfactories. New Orleans,on the other hand is FOUL.

http://www.perrysys.com/R2K/MVC069S.JPG

(Shhhhhhhhhhhhh, Rock.)

they extended something to lebanon?

I don't suppose there's such a thing as a vegetarian restaurant in Memphis now is there?

thriftstores -- Light Years on Cooper has the cherry-picked hipster duds. There's a three block stretch on Summer Ave. with a ton of thrift stores.

clubs -- sure bets for live music: Hi Tone, Young Avenue Deli, Buccaneer, Murphy's. But definitely check the listings in the Memphis Flyer (memphisflyer.com) because sometimes there are shows on the roof of the Gibson Guitar Factory or the Pho Hoah Binh buffet. Or you can go do the touristy blooze thing on Beale. Mostly bunk, but occasionally surprising. Check out Wild Bill's on Vollintine or Hard Luck Cafe on McLemore & 3rd for a bit more auhtenticity... Raiford's Hollywood used to be the best place to dance to Funk/ disco backtracks, but I haven't been there in a couple of years. I think it's been kinda defanged as well.

vegetarian restaurants? I can't really think of any that specialize. Memphians do love meat. Lots of places have excellent veg. options though.

Can anyone offer any tips on reasonable places to stay in Nashville? I don't have any fancy needs but wouldn't mind staying somewhere fairly comfortable. I need to be somewhere reasonably central, I think. The plan is that I'd be there for a few nights, just a short break really.

And will it be rubbish if I can't drive?

I can't drive.

http://www.sei.cmu.edu/activities/sepg/2006/image/opryland_night.jpg http://img.forministry.com/4/43/431DFB35-1A7B-4C18-B1DBD7F61D37FE32/D2E1A11A-B725-4BCB-B2B1FB4F1A14A9A5.jpg http://www.nacsonline.com/NR/rdonlyres/elvsltly72zshxasqe5cyg2q6tut5x2mlinik7i7vw3qubfoxhas2fs7zdy5x7z6vejlq3xsq4rgp2xkejacnedrczd/Hotel2.jpg http://www.nacsonline.com/NR/rdonlyres/efp2krhgm3a5bqdv2u2kpxxnzuylselqmi46sotzgmmehd7fgid6ntc7vinee2psrozhpj4elhoccmsj2gcokdhviif/HotelLobby.jpg http://photosphotos.net/tn1%20thumbnails/TN037.jpg http://www.searchengineworkshops.com/images/OPRY07.JPG http://z.about.com/d/honeymoons/1/0/N/6/opry3.jpg

http://static.flickr.com/35/73087388_e422c22d4c.jpg?v=0

my abridged impression (re: the thread title) would be:

Memphis: blues, sweaty, alive.
Nashville: country, crusty, warmed over.

no offense intended, I liked both, but Memphis/Beale Street was more fun.

nashville seemed like a place that didn't know it had tourists, or what to do with them

we stayed in the best western, it was cheap(ish), and central, i guess

it was very cold

the swimming pool was broken

i saw a bus, one of the days, i tried to take a pic, but it vanished again

I've never had a good time in Memphis, but we're gonna try in a couple of weeks to enjoy ourselves. The Stax museum & Rendezvous BBQ.

No Goner fest?

Poor TN and their Titans. Things looked hopeful once.

i had to go look up this 'goner fest'. we've got a lot of things listed on our tentative agenda - basically learning to like memphis. but w/o going to graceland.

I know I've expounded upon the virtues of Payne's BBQ before, but, it is not to be missed. And, the inside of the restaurant looks like a Jim Jarmusch film.

Been too long since I've been back home. Well, it's been too long since I've gone back home and spent more than two days there.
I need to go pick up all the Jay Reatard solo stuff and side project
records at Goner.

And, the inside of the restaurant looks like a Jim Jarmusch film.
You've seen Mystery Train, right? I like his Memphis.

Yup (and I loved it too!). His Memphis is great. I should have taken pictures of the inside of Payne's. Imagine: great empty smokey room, with whitewash walls and bare light bulbs on the walls, and really eerily quiet.

Tell me that they're really not going to turn the Pyramid into a Bass Pro.

REALLY REALLY ARE AND THAT'S INSANELY LOLTASTIC.

probably 50/50 on Bass Pro. Probably safer than the indoor theme park that's been proposed, but probably not the best idea either.

better that than empty. I guess.

also a possibility: http://www.bizjournals.com/memphis/stories/2008/02/11/daily10.html

my uncle lives in this beautiful house on a hill. it's big and it has columns inside. he has a garden, too, which is breathtaking -- and one of the screened-in porches? coronas taste good there.

Popped over to Nashville for a day when I went to Terrastock; only saw the touristy side of it but caught a show at the Opry and had a great time. The Earnest Tubb record store sucked but the one just down the street was legit awesome. Then wound up accidentally camping in some dry county nearby--man the attitude we got when we asked where the nearest liquor store was!

Totally going to Goner Fest, looking forward to Memphis.

rabies, if you're going for gfV do your record shopping early. by the end of the weekend the store is picked pretty clean. i remember when i went for gfII i went over to the store just after getting into town and i made mental notes of about $500 worth of records i wanted. but i was on a budget and had to make sure i had enough money to last the whole 4 days so i put off my purchases until sunday. most of the lps i wanted were gone, so i loaded up on like $80 worth of 7"s.

wait isn't there that place, the Great Escape i think it's called -- it's like used everything. used to be my favorite place to go

Stax Museum, Rock N Soul Museum, or Sun Studio? I'll only have time for one.

I've only been to Sun, but it was great.

i am going to hit y'all up for tips, because i get the impression beale street's the kind of place you can get a license plate keyring with your name on it but is not jiving like it once was. BUT first, can anyone recommend good places to stay? i am thinking more mystery train and jukeboxes rather than cocktails and bathrobes.

http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/blogs/themoment/posts/081004_required1.jpg

Would getting shot be something you'd try to avoid?

i am there for a day or two so will do whatever is necessary to have an authentic memphibian experience. i'd rather be somewhere scruffy and memphis-y than somewhere comfortable and econolodge flavoured. have you been?

I'll leave it up to some of the Memphians on this board who actually live there to point out any Mystery Train type places to stay in.

My family's from there and I used to go to Memphis four or five times a year to visit them or go to the Pink Palace or hit the casinos once I got older. The last time we stayed there, we just booked a room inside the Wyndham across the freeway from St. Jude's. Close to downtown, but also easy to get to Midtown from. The scruffy parts are more to the south of downtown and on toward Highway 61/S. 3rd Street. Or you could just go to Northeast and walk up and down Summer Avenue for a Memphis experience. Might I suggest the Cottage Restaurant.

Personally, I'd just as soon drive around town in a red pick-up all night and drink whiskey than stay in some of those places.

man the hotel thing in memphis is unecessarily tricky...

there are tons of places in the downtown tourist hub, probably ranging from $80 -> $$$$$

there's the Artisan in Midtown which is pretty convenient, if you're doing midtown things (music venues, record stores, cooper young restaurant/commercial area, etc). It's a stone's throw from my house and I know a lot of folks stay there during Goner Fest, but I really don't know about rates, ammenities or cleanliness.

you could probably get a real taste of Memphis staying at the Lamplighter Motor Inn on Lamar (also not far from my house and literally 250 yards from million dollar homes), but it's been forced by the DA's office and the MPD Organized Crime Unit to shut its doors on Friday & Saturday nights for lol prostitution & drugs.

There really does need to be a better place to stay in Mem, either in the So. Main "arts district" (where some of Mystery Train was shot, iirc) or in Midtown... hmmmmmm.

going to the country club tonight. excited to put on a blue button down, order some scotch and a steak.

I'm outside of Knoxville this week for the holidays. In Tellico Village.

neato.

just got back from dinner: 4 lamb chops and 2 manhattans

I visited Memphis for the first time this past weekend. A couple I set up a few years ago flew me in to play This Land is Your Land at their big Super Bowl party.

Loved the Stax museum, including the map showing how many great musicians lived within walking distance of the studio, and how the record store had an influence on the bands recording there.

Drank at Earnestine & Hazel's, which has a "secret" bar on the second floor. Feels like an abandoned rooming house up there.

Ate at Harry's Detour on South Main. Great food.

Cajun food at DejaVu.

Fried baloney at some other BBQ place. Never would have thought to try, but good.

Liked the town a lot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuC_l3ymXhM

^^ Shot at E&H's

I used and like "The Low-life Guide to Memphis"

http://www.shangri.com/kc.html

Missing Memphis lately.

DejaVu A++

excited about visiting both Memphis and Nashville this summer, probably just a day each though.

Memphis has cool things (Stax Museum especially!) but is such a downer. Nashville is bright and shiny and whatever, but hollow at its core (though I kind of miss living there).

Folkies go to Memphis event

** 2011 Folk Alliance International conference February 16-20, 2011 at the Memphis Marriott Hotel
** Over 1800 Registrants from around the world
** 2011 Keynote Speakers: David Bromberg & Mark Olson
** Special keynote interview: Jac Holzman on the 60th anniversary of Elektra Records
** 200+ juried music showcase performances ** hundreds of in-room showcases
** A Special Tribute to John Hartford ** 2nd Annual Sacred Steel Summit
** Music Maker Relief Foundation Spotlight ** Films
** Jammin At Hippie Jack's ** XM15 The Village Live
** three full days of panels, workshops, and instrument clinics
** Annual FAI Lifetime Achievement Awards and Honors
** Three day Exhibit Hall with over 100 exhibitors
** Graceland, Sun Studios, Stax, Rev. Al Green’s Church, Beale Street

lots o nashville haters in memphis. i am not one of them.

Going to be in Nashville this weekend. I know Prince's is supposed to be the be-all and end-all of hot chicken, but what's a good place that also does hot fish?

Man allegedly commits 10 felonies in 9 hours

impressive!

I bet they'll be some bargains at the Shangri-la record sale Saturday April 14th in Memphis

http://shangri.com/2012/04/04/record-swappin-time/

x-post

Todd is not even a native of Nashville.

maybe I should visit Nashville this summer in case the Nutty Professor musical never goes to Broadway.

what up cashville anything NOT terrible going on in the immediate downtown area? on a week night to boot? guessing prob not...
I'd be willing to venture further but I have to be up pretty early.

Tell me that they're really not going to turn the Pyramid into a Bass Pro.

― Pleasant Plains, Wednesday, February 13, 2008 4:25 PM Bookmark Flag Post Permalink

Memphis, you've outdone yourself.

http://i.imgur.com/YhVkEb4.jpg

ayeyiyi i haven't been back since they opened. but hey, at least it's not a dumpy casino. i guess.

Going to be in Nashville this weekend. I know Prince's is supposed to be the be-all and end-all of hot chicken, but what's a good place that also does hot fish?

Bolton's on Main St in East NAsh is probably what you are (were) looking for

Mother of God.

http://i.imgur.com/k9DEujF.jpg

I realize a change has long been needed at 1-55, but my goodness, what in fresh hell is this.

Old
http://i.imgur.com/cUxPvoa.jpg

New
http://i.imgur.com/sObHm9h.jpg

Americans + roundabouts = disaster

The western and southern portions of that interchange is Interstate 55. As you can see in the top map, southbound traffic currently has to circle through one quarter of a cloverleaf interchange to proceed onward. When it was built, there were 15,000 autos on there a day. Now, it's more like 60,000.

But yeah, the roundabout in the middle of that is crazy. I love those things and think they should be placed all over the continent. Just maybe not right there.

My fellow Arkansans are a bit upset because this will shut down the I-55 bridge across the Mississippi for nine months.

http://www.nytimes.com/2016/09/19/us/following-its-country-music-nashville-may-loosen-up-on-marijuana.html

Any recommendations for things to do/eat in Memphis for two decaying adults and a grade school kid? Staying near Overton Park & thinking about Stax, Goner & walking along the Mississippi to the Bass Pro Pyramid

Another "going to be in town for Goner Fest, any recommendations?" bump.

i thought there were a bunch of nashvegas ilxors, what's up?

https://goner-records.com/pages/gonerfest

Gonerfest 20 in a few weeks! Partner's keen to show me the Peabody Ducks.

https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2025/11/20/travel/things-to-do-memphis.html?unlocked_article_code=1.3k8.y5bT.yc1cUEGk2pD8&smid=nytcore-ios-share

NY Times 36 hours in Memphis guide is a bit different from the Shangri-La Records “Kreature Comforts: Lowlife Guide to Memphis “ although some things show up on both

My main Memphisto recs are Pho Saigon (2946 Poplar), and 901 Wine and Spirits (4734 Spottswood). Buster's (the Poplar @ Highland location) and Joe's Liquor (as seen on the cover of the Compulsive Gamblers' Gambling Days Are Over) also good booze shops.