How to wear suits

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Often I consider becoming the type of man who wears suits. They look good, I think. But how do you do it without looking like you work in an office? Is the fact that I am concerned about looking like an office-boy evidence that I am not the type of man who wears suits, and never could be?

What can you wear suits with? Does it have to be a shirt and tie, or can you do something else? What about footwear?

Where do you buy suits that don't look like business suits? That do look like "He's the Dude" suits?

Eyeball Kicks (Eyeball Kicks), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 14:16 (twenty-two years ago)

make sure they're ill-fitting. that seems to be the cool kids only requirement, re. suits.

jess (dubplatestyle), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 14:18 (twenty-two years ago)

Where are you?

Bryan (Bryan), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 14:18 (twenty-two years ago)

Who? Me? London.

Eyeball Kicks (Eyeball Kicks), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 14:21 (twenty-two years ago)

Where do you buy suits that don't look like business suits? That do look like "He's the Dude" suits?

What do you mean by "Dude"? If you're thinking something out of a P. Diddy video, the Georgetown neighborhood of DC is crammed with places that sell that sort of suit. (And how can they all keep in business if I never see anyone who dresses at that sort of place?)

j.lu (j.lu), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 14:24 (twenty-two years ago)

must be black. black shirt. black tie also

gareth (gareth), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 14:25 (twenty-two years ago)

the shirt can be white, but you run the risk of looking like a reservoir dog/ratpack wannabe

gareth (gareth), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 14:25 (twenty-two years ago)

alternately: white suit, black shirt, white tie.

anything with colors, as well, and you're golden. (fuck that was almost a pun.)

jess (dubplatestyle), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 14:26 (twenty-two years ago)

Stick to one colour. Yes. Mono. That is the way.

I do not own any suits.

Sarah (starry), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 14:29 (twenty-two years ago)

but what of the ZOOT SUIT?

jess (dubplatestyle), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 14:30 (twenty-two years ago)

What do you mean by "Dude"?

I'm not sure. Nick Cave maybe, he looks good in a suit. I wanna look tall and thin and serious. I don't wanna look like a smart arse or a gangster. But I wanna look like I can comfortably deal with smart arses and gangsters.

must be black. black shirt. black tie also

I've got a black suit. I didn't think you were allowed to wear them during the day. Black shirt, yeah? Can't this look a bit jazz-club? How optional is the tie?

Eyeball Kicks (Eyeball Kicks), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 14:34 (twenty-two years ago)

the more padding in the shoulders, the more it is a business suit. something that is cut tightly, or at least cut inwards as opposed to expansive, should work. i don;t know if they are fashionable anymore, but I remember a year or two ago, suits with three or four buttone were cooler on the jacket. also, it was fahionable at a certain point to add some aviator sunglasses as well. If you have money, you should prbably pick up something from a designer that markets to younger, trendier crowds becuase those suits are gonna look hipper, and less office-like.

to reiterate, the MOST important thing is the CUT. A black suit from Prada or Dior is going to look a lot different than one from Armani or Donna Karan.

my advice is to go to an upscale department store and try on as many different suits as you can. I don't know what your budget is like, but you can always go to, say, Harvey Nichols and bother the salespeople and then buy something somewhere else.

Aaron Grossman (aajjgg), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 14:43 (twenty-two years ago)

tie isn't optional. its essential. if you're going to wear a suit, wear a suit. and yes, the cut is essential. padding=bad. no padding, and some suits are like tents. this is also bad. you see people walking along, billowing in the wind. big flappy flare suits. look a circus clown in those...

gareth (gareth), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 14:50 (twenty-two years ago)

The Strokes get away with it by going vintage.

You don't look like you are at work if you wear a tshirt under the suit that has a "porn star" logo or some such.

Half-way to suit is something like a pair of trousers and a velvet jacket.

I udnerstand your problem as it is one that I am battling with myself

Sofa King Alternative (Sofa King Alternative), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 14:57 (twenty-two years ago)

cheap suit, one size too small, narrow sleeves, narrow lapels, no shoulder pads, single-breasted, 2 or three buttons, inside pocket fer flask/drugs.

accessories: skinnyISH tie, soft-collared shirt, flower pinned to lapel, thin blue belt with white stripe and a picture of a horse on the little blue buckle, SNEAKERS!!!, and short hair.

=sexeee

and no white sox

gabriel rodriguez-doerr (gabe), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 15:02 (twenty-two years ago)

N. to thread!

jel -- (jel), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 15:55 (twenty-two years ago)

I seem to be the only person who comes to London FAPs in a suit, because I have to wear one at work. I invested a whopping £60 in the last one I bought, a couple of months ago. This is a reasonable measure of how much I care about clothes, but I like to imagine I don't look too terrible in it - I expect several here will rush to disillusion me!

Martin Skidmore (Martin Skidmore), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 18:53 (twenty-two years ago)

suits are nice but i'm glad I don't have to wear them every day.

Julio Desouza (jdesouza), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 20:11 (twenty-two years ago)

Best thread ever. Guys who look good in suits = highly desirable. I can only offer the following advice: with practice comes something approaching perfection. Practice, practice, practice, wear your suit to non-threatening non-essential occassions, once you've got the look perfected, the accessories, the gear calibrated, then you and your suit are ready for a night of perfect debauchery...

Mary (Mary), Tuesday, 1 October 2002 22:00 (twenty-two years ago)

Guys who look good in suits = highly desirable

What if you look good in everything but suits? (I do not count myself among this number -- and as for suits, I guess I wear mine well, but the hair is bemusing.)

Ned Raggett (Ned), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 00:17 (twenty-two years ago)

Then get a haircut, hippie.

Nicole (Nicole), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 00:31 (twenty-two years ago)

Then find someone who can love you for your mind.

j.lu (j.lu), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 00:33 (twenty-two years ago)

Well thank god the blue collar seems to thankfully gone out of style this summer, thank you very much accounting departments for that crime. Just say no to pin strips, stay away from double breasted ones unless your skinney and don't want to look as skinny at the risk of looking like a loon

And more importantly learn how to look comfortable in a shirt and tie.

Mr Noodles (Mr Noodles), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 00:46 (twenty-two years ago)

Then get a haircut, hippie.

I find this answer neither helpful nor accurate.

Then find someone who can love you for your mind.

It's almost a Morrissey lyric, it is. ;-)

Ned Raggett (Ned), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 01:39 (twenty-two years ago)

with good shoes. Don't forget the shoes!

felicity (felicity), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 01:40 (twenty-two years ago)

the strokes get away with it? = they look like the tossy tryhard "hipsters" they are

spectra, Wednesday, 2 October 2002 01:43 (twenty-two years ago)

do the strokes really wear vintage clothing? or do they buy the expensive designer stuff that looks vintage?

Aaron Grossman (aajjgg), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 02:44 (twenty-two years ago)

They claim it is really vintage. Further than this I do not know

Sofa King Alternative (Sofa King Alternative), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 07:44 (twenty-two years ago)

I'm a guy that used to love wearing suits. And hell, I didn't even have the kind of job that 'suited'. But still...

I recommend a dark suit, double breasted, make sure its the right cut for your frame. When you go out, always button the jacket. A suit with a smart cut is always more impressive buttoned up.

Pin stripe or any kind of weave pattern is OK only if it's BARELY visible, and then only up close.

Find a set of matching cufflinks and tie pin, tasteful not gaudy. Or maybe a tie 'chain', they clip on to the button of your shirt.

For god's sake wear a tie, a tasteful one. Make sure you tie it PROPERLY. Ties must sit in a triangular shape over the top button of your shirt and extend to the top of your belt, DONT let them come up too short! Find someone to teach you how to tie them properly, it's one of the things that defines a real suit wearer over someone that is just pretending (or has maybe god-forbid, hired/borrowed it).

Shirts should be white if you want formal, or dark coloured if you want to look more sexy. Dark coloured shirts need to be muted colours, NOT bright. ALWAYS iron them, NEVER fold them. Black shirts are cool, but ONLY with an equally black suit - and then you might even go without the tie. Make sure you get shirts that have double button-holed cuffs, so that they take your cufflinks.

If your cufflinks and tie chain/pin are gold, then wear a gold watch too, silver with silver, or duo-tone with duo-tone. DONT wear a sports watch or anything too bulky. Choose a slim profile dress watch.

Wear leather shoes. Dark brown goes with most suits, even black. Get shoes with good craftmanship, leather sole is preferred. Wear socks that match the colour, or are darker than your suit. Avoid patterned socks.

Use a cologne. But not too much, and NOT the cheap stuff. I can recommend Opium for men, or Beverley Hills 273 for men. Both very sexy colognes. Dont put the cologne on your wrists. It will wear/wash off. Put it on your inner elbow, collar bone. They are places less likely to be kissed and tasted by you girlfriend! (instead of putting the cologne around your neck, some colognes taste YUK!)

Make sure you are CLEAN. Body, face, hair, finger-nails etc. Use an anti-perspirant that does not detract from the smell of your cologne (or over-power). Wear you hear the way you want, so long as its washed and not oily or dandruffy.

Last but not least, compose yourself as a gentleman, a MAN. Act like you know who you are, and talk like you mean what you say.

OK. There you go.

Wanna trash what I've written, feel free to e-mail.

Perry Bernard (panterus), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 09:10 (twenty-two years ago)

i like the crazy suit man who walks the dunedin streets in secondhand suits yelling at everyone because no-one will give him a job. girls in second hand mens suits with flared pants = yum.

di smith (lucylurex), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 09:14 (twenty-two years ago)

Hello di from Dunno's.

Perry Bernard (panterus), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 09:21 (twenty-two years ago)

hey yo! new dunedin blood, you must come to our next FAP!

di smith (lucylurex), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 09:37 (twenty-two years ago)

Sorry di, I'm in auckland. Will be in Dunnos some time in next month or so tho. (business trip).

Perry Bernard (panterus), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 09:43 (twenty-two years ago)

ph34r new zealand. we are the internet.

di smith (lucylurex), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 09:51 (twenty-two years ago)

Martin, it doesn't look like a sixty quid suit, have no fear.

chris (chris), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 11:21 (twenty-two years ago)

ph34r new zealand. we are the internet.

That's for sure. McDonald's with cybercafes! Their addiction is worse than that for coffee. ;-)

Ned Raggett (Ned), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 11:44 (twenty-two years ago)

Martin - your suit is very sharp. Far too good for us scruffy fappers.
I have not owned a suit for about 10 yrs. Even in my prev. life as a 'high-flier' (ha!) I found I just didn't need one.

Dr. C (Dr. C), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 12:01 (twenty-two years ago)

Thanks Chris and Dr C - I was indeed wearing the sixty quid suit on the last occasions I saw you. It is okay, I think, but my way of buying clothes is spotting the cheapest available, and then only considering spending a little more if there is nothing at all tolerable amongst the cheapest. I resent spending money on clothes as an unfortunate necessity.

Martin Skidmore (Martin Skidmore), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 17:00 (twenty-two years ago)

Finding affordable suits without shoulder padding = k-hard, sometimes. I've been looking for some decent ones for ages, but between that and my already-weird big-person shoulders I always wind up sticking with just sport coats and blazers and such (wool, corduroy, etc.).

Also I've decided that Ned is actually sort of like Samson, and that if you cut his hair he will suddenly lose his power to recall obscure New Zealand slop-rock b-sides. (We should have ensnared him with a Rainy/Delilah thing.)

nabisco (nabisco), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 17:52 (twenty-two years ago)

This would be sad, and I would cry.

Ned Raggett (Ned), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 18:41 (twenty-two years ago)

I am imagining Nabisco as a black man the approximate size of Frankie Munoz with William "The Refrigerator" Perry's shoulders superimposed onto his body. Hopefully this explains the hooting laughter.

Dan Perry (Dan Perry), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 19:32 (twenty-two years ago)

Use a cologne.

Some of the points made in Perry's post were debatable, but the whole thing went out the window with this recommendation. And while wearing cologne is dud in varying degrees in different circumstances, it is never, ever permissible to wear cologne to the office. The very idea.

Sean (Sean), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 19:44 (twenty-two years ago)

And while wearing cologne is dud in varying degrees in different circumstances, it is never, ever permissible to wear cologne to the office. The very idea.

Yeah, I'm inclined to agree because the people who do wear cologne in the office have a tendency to douse themselves with gallons of the stuff and end up giving co-workers w/in 10 yards of them headaches.

Nicole (Nicole), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 20:05 (twenty-two years ago)

We should have ensnared him with a Rainy/Delilah thing

we were gonna get him so drunk that he would pass out, then take a few locks, alas ned is very sensiful with his alcohol so we never had the chance. ned without ability to remember nz sloprock b-sides = oxymoron.

di smith (lucylurex), Wednesday, 2 October 2002 21:40 (twenty-two years ago)

one month passes...
Ooh just noticed this. I've spent the past year becoming a suit-wearer and I'll impart what I know. Obv, others know more than me. Or at least CLAIM to. JamesMichaelWard to thread.

First, it will divide your friends. Most girls will like it, most guys will rip the piss. The guys who don't mock will slowly start moving toward suit-wearing themselves. The friends of mine who mock are all t-shirt and jeans and thus do not matter.

Secondly, it's easy to buy a decent suit. At least it is in Manchester. Cafe Pop used to sell some good ones and some rooting around in Afflecks can come up with the goods too. I own three lovely suits, one black, one blue and one with grey with barely visible pinstripes.

Thirdly, the actual suit. Someone above mentioned velvet, I'd say this is a big no-no. Velvet reeks of 17yr old college student in purple flares. Not good. It's best to look for trousers with a slight flare though, boot cut. And a sharp crease down the front and back is nigh-on essential.

Fourth, the extras. Do not wear sneakers with the suit - this is akin to buying a Monet and throwing Tippex at it. I wear black leather shoes/boots. Don't wear bright shirts. Ever. With or without a suit. Plain white/grey/black/navy/dark red is good. As its winter you'll also need a good coat. Knee length black/brown cashmere is what you need, top it off with a scarf worn around the neck and tucked inside the coat. Hats. I'd like to wear a hat. But I don't know how.

Fifth, the walk. Walk like you mean it. Strut. Scowl a bit. Ignore the proles and their snickering.

There. Easy.

Ian SPACK (Ian SPACK), Wednesday, 13 November 2002 23:10 (twenty-two years ago)

Nick to thread! Nick to thread!

For he is master of the under £5 suit; of course it helps to be built like a pipe cleaner!

I have suits: weird navy pinstripe Hardy Amies postwar skirt suit, black suit unworn since Britpop, Peck&Peck suit inherited from grandmother, but missing its fur collar, torn off to get 'Japanese deconstruction/Hussein Chalayan' look.

I would like a new suit. Next book advance, I AM GOING TO FIND MARK POWELL OR SIMILAR for hot bespoke action. Every time I go to thrift stores everything's too big, I buy the skinny-person's choice thinking it might fit, it's £5, so I grab and wind up giving it to Nick (and no, Currie, you aren't getting one this time).

suzy (suzy), Wednesday, 13 November 2002 23:28 (twenty-two years ago)

It's best to look for trousers with a slight flare though, boot cut.

This is nonsense. Suits don't come with "boot cut" trousers, and if they do I don't want to know about them.

Sean (Sean), Wednesday, 13 November 2002 23:40 (twenty-two years ago)

(Wow, I think this is my first ever "...to thread")

(Also, Dickon to thread)

I agree with most of what SPACK says however I wouldn't say it's that easy to buy a great suit but it certainly is possible - though it can take quite a bit of time (also you DO NOT have to spend lots of money, it's possible given a bit of time and a bit of luck to find great looking suits for under £20, if you want to spend a bit more/haven't got the time then there's a place in Covent Garden on [forgotten road name - same road as Pop Boutique] Road that sells nice 1970s Italian factory stock suits.)

Black is good and works well with a black shirt and a skinny tie (I've got a great neon-pink tie which my idiot brother gave to me in a RoMo coming of age ceremony). I'm currently looking for a navy blue (poss. pinstripe) suit. Dark grey is nice too. Basically, dark is good. The darker the better.

I've always avoided hats because there always seems to be an element of "look at me, I'm wearing a hat, A HAT!" in hat-wearers. This can also be true of suits and is something you must, at all costs, avoid. If you find that nature/destiny/whatever has decided you are to wear suits then it is something you simply must do as naturally as possible, with a minimum of fuss. The other week, I bought a magnificent jacket (£8) and was a bit put out that no-one commented on it until I realised that actually, it was a good thing as I'd developed my(look/self) to a point where people are blind to what I'm wearing (ie I had passed Brummell's acid test)

Ian, you'll find people are much more tolerant of suit wearing in London. When, in a former life, I accidentally spent two years in Manchester, people constantly asked me "Why are you wearing a tie?" ("Why aren't you wearing a tie?" I would ask. "Because I have to wear a tie everyday at work and the weekend is my only opportunity not to wear one" they would respond. "But, surely you also have to wear trousers to work" I would reply. Then they'd walk off, muttering "tosser"). This never happens in London, at least not in my London.

"Do not wear sneakers with the suit"
The last three words are unnecessary here.

jamesmichaelward (jamesmichaelward), Wednesday, 13 November 2002 23:59 (twenty-two years ago)

JMW, you're thinking of Cenci on Monmouth Street. I go in there just often enough to be annoyed by gormless Italian boy working in shop who is way over-attentive: IF I NEED HELP, I'LL ASK.

suzy (suzy), Thursday, 14 November 2002 00:13 (twenty-two years ago)

That's the one. All the staff (especially the middle-aged woman who works there too) are really full-on. I can only cope with it if I have support. Sometimes I just get too scared and walk past.

jamesmichaelward (jamesmichaelward), Thursday, 14 November 2002 00:31 (twenty-two years ago)

Also; what is all this about buying suits that cost about the same as a sandwich? I thought clothes were expensive in London. Even vintage suits run more than that.

Related question: new vs. vintage. Wearing a vintage suit usually screams "I'm wearing a vintage suit", i.e. I'd never wear one to the office. But how about wearing a new suit out to a club? Whereas wearing a vintage suit out says "cool", does wearing a new suit out (except to an expensive restaurant, maybe) say "boring yuppie"?

Sean (Sean), Thursday, 14 November 2002 00:34 (twenty-two years ago)

Sean, you can take a good skinny suit anywhere, vintage or not. DRY CLEANING, yo. As to prices, the cheapies don't happen too often so that's why the BIG GRAB and amazing luck can be had in basement of Retro in Notting Hill, or you can get lucky in charity shops (just not Oxfam).

suzy (suzy), Thursday, 14 November 2002 00:48 (twenty-two years ago)

I don't think I've ever seen a girl wearing a suit. I very much like girls in shirt, tie and skirt but I don't know how I'd react to girl in suit. Maybe I'd find it intimidating like Grace Jones. Or maybe it'd make me weak at the knees. Anyone got any pictures of cute girls in suits?

Ian SPACK (Ian SPACK), Thursday, 14 November 2002 11:39 (twenty-two years ago)

Those 4 (or more) button suits are awful. 3 is the magic number.

tigerclawskank, Thursday, 14 November 2002 11:52 (twenty-two years ago)

I don't think I've ever seen a girl wearing a suit.

Er, www.fosca.com! Or better still:

http://www.badmovies.org/movies/liquidsky/liquidsky5.jpg

I've just realised I've never actually bought any of my suits. They were all given to me, or from Orlando video shoots, Warners clothes budgets, Spearmint gigs sponsored by a Tokyo menswear shop (that was a fun day... minutes off the plane and we were frogmarched into the shop after hours, told to pick out anything we wanted!).

About time I went to that place in Convent Garden. It's not the first time I've been recommended to me.

I prefer my £10 charity shop suit (present from Tim) to the £600 Katherine Hamnett one from Harvey Nicks Warners got me. So charity shops are always worth it.

Also, many dry cleaners have cheap suits for sale that have been left uncollected by owners.

I agree that it's vital that the suits are 3 buttons, not 2 or 4.

I've never worn hats purely because I have an inordinately large head size.

The black shirt / red tie look has been tried and tested since that Kraftwerk sleeve (and quoted in that Kylie video by the male dancers), though the gangster / funeral look will also always work till the end of time (black suit, black tie, white suit). I have a thing for polka dot ties, mainly after Studio 54-era Warhol, though recently UK politicians have taken a liking to them, too.

Dickon Edwards (Dickon Edwards), Monday, 18 November 2002 03:01 (twenty-two years ago)

One more girl in a suit:

http://www.cultheroes.com/liqproppic1.jpg

Dickon Edwards (Dickon Edwards), Monday, 18 November 2002 03:03 (twenty-two years ago)

I thought Kraftwerk suits were red shirts and black ties which makes it more russian constructivist, belgian designer raf simons made it famous in his collection of a few years ago, i still think it is the best combination ever, if I ever see a boy where this i go wee-kneed...

erik, Monday, 18 November 2002 08:38 (twenty-two years ago)

In Sixth form at my school it's a strictly-enforced rule that boys must wear suits. [Note the "boys"; indicating general physique, attitude to suits, et al.] They're disgusted by this certain rule, [one which I would love if the suits were a bit less Next and a bit more Come On Baby] and by the look of their suits I'd drag my feet about all day if I wore one of those disgusting numbers. [Being a girl I'm tempted towards a suit but a jacket is the furthest I've reached. Possibly with tie.]

Anyhow, hence I think the lesson to be learnt is to LOVE your suit and surely your suit then loves you? Make sure it's not a bad match, mind. Be relaxed, enjoy the experience. Stroke your lapels and smile to yourself.

Any attractive boys I've ever seen in suits have been those for whom a suit-y experience is an enjoyable experience.

Nico, Monday, 18 November 2002 19:53 (twenty-two years ago)

one year passes...
I encourage anybody on this page to check out http://www.bygpub.com/books/tg2rw/chap8excerpt.htm . It is a site about what a suit says about a person. Don't buy a suit just to look flashy. A suit is meant to send the signal of maturity and honesty, not "Hey look at me, don't I look suave" Thats just lame, not to mention imature and a waste of money. Suits are expensive. Buy one that is conservative and presents yourself as perfesional, the way a suit is meant to serve.

David Keys, Friday, 7 May 2004 16:34 (twenty-one years ago)

i'm a real perfesional! hic!

s1ocki (slutsky), Friday, 7 May 2004 16:35 (twenty-one years ago)

http://www.phatpimpclothing.com/hi/phatpimp/images/pimplando.jpg

Ask For Samantha (thatgirl), Friday, 7 May 2004 16:41 (twenty-one years ago)

My suit is fabulous.

@d@ml (nordicskilla), Friday, 7 May 2004 17:04 (twenty-one years ago)

This is nonsense. Suits don't come with "boot cut" trousers, and if they do I don't want to know about them.

-- Sean (saturns...), November 13th, 2002.

See, this sort of post is why Sean needs to come back to ILX.

@d@ml (nordicskilla), Friday, 7 May 2004 17:06 (twenty-one years ago)

I've been wanting to wear a suit lately--I think I look much better in really tailored stuff. Or does everyone... so do those London recommendations above hold true for the ladies also? Vintage stuff is usually too small to fit me.

sgs (sgs), Friday, 7 May 2004 17:14 (twenty-one years ago)

i'm a real perfesional! hic!

s1ocki outs himself as a broker. No more Creemore for you.

Mr Noodles (Mr Noodles), Friday, 7 May 2004 17:20 (twenty-one years ago)

I always figured you just sorta draped then fastened them onto your body.

nickalicious (nickalicious), Friday, 7 May 2004 17:34 (twenty-one years ago)

This is nonsense. Suits don't come with "boot cut" trousers, and if they do I don't want to know about them.
-- Sean (saturns...), November 13th, 2002.

See, this sort of post is why Sean needs to come back to ILX.

-- @d@ml (nordicskill@hotmail.com), May 7th, 2004 6:06 PM. (nordicskilla) (later)


With all due respect, Sean is an idiot. Suit trousers that go straight down at the bottom (or even worse, go in) are awful and suitable only for chubby bankers.

Affectian (Affectian), Friday, 7 May 2004 17:44 (twenty-one years ago)

with all due respect, your mother is a pill-popping whore.

oops (Oops), Friday, 7 May 2004 18:09 (twenty-one years ago)

I wish I'd known this thread existed earlier. Ward/Spack OTM, about everything.

Straight trousers look bandy-legged and absurd to me. I just don't like them. This might be some sort of indie-kid throwback 'ankles feel naked when not protected by slight flare at all times' thing. I've never found good suits easy to locate. You either have to be one of those cunts who can walk into a charity shop in the middle of nowhere and immediately pluck out a really nice suit that fits you immaculately and costs nine pence or you get one tailored so that it actually fits you nicely for an obscene amount of money. Round Here, anyway.

I think there is a healthy balance to be struck between yuppie and mod when it comes to going-out suits, which isn't necessarily being a droogy Interpol Twat.

It's been suggested to me that you need to have good poise to wear a suit. I'm not really sure what that means but I suppose if you're the sort of person who's going to wear a suit you probably have some ingrained notion of what it is anyway.

ferg (Ferg), Friday, 7 May 2004 18:23 (twenty-one years ago)

Take an average guy and put him in a suit...he'll get laid in less than half the time...ooooh guys in suits **sigh**

Kirsty P. (Kirsty P.), Friday, 7 May 2004 18:25 (twenty-one years ago)

if that's true, the world needs to die.

oops (Oops), Friday, 7 May 2004 18:29 (twenty-one years ago)

Unpleasant formative experience with well dressed man?

(everyone who insisted on Proper Shoes and a tie is also OTM. I think this thread is one Norwichian away from containing everybody whose opinion I have ever deferred to re suits. It is a Good Thread.)

ferg (Ferg), Friday, 7 May 2004 19:11 (twenty-one years ago)

Perry's post was so Bateman, I thought he was in the book.

Barima (Barima), Friday, 7 May 2004 19:12 (twenty-one years ago)

I am wearing a tuxedo now.

Ronan (Ronan), Friday, 7 May 2004 19:12 (twenty-one years ago)

Between my dad and GQ, I'm covered on suit advice for life.

Barima (Barima), Friday, 7 May 2004 19:13 (twenty-one years ago)

My suit is the most comfortable outfit I own. I wish I could wear it every day.

@d@ml (nordicskilla), Friday, 7 May 2004 20:15 (twenty-one years ago)

wear suits naked

uh (eetface), Friday, 7 May 2004 20:41 (twenty-one years ago)

I'm a cream cordouroy man myself

sexyDancer, Friday, 7 May 2004 20:48 (twenty-one years ago)

Fug, you're so right.

Oops, you're so saucy.

Kirsty, you're so wrong. Stick your average guy in a suit and he'll look stupidly uncomfortable and all that suity goodness will be lost.

Good suits can be found in hard-to-find shops in Afflecks Palace, Manchester (with the fabled boot-cut, no less).

Poise is 30% of the whole suit effect.

Tuxedo's are probably shit. Feel free to prove me wrong.

The singular statement that separates Perry from Bateman is about the shoes. Dark brown shoes never ever go well with a blue (all shades) suit.

Jon to thread.

Affectian (Affectian), Friday, 7 May 2004 21:27 (twenty-one years ago)

Tuxedo's are probably shit. Feel free to prove me wrong.

http://home.c2i.net/mjj/bilder/off.jpg

Barima (Barima), Friday, 7 May 2004 21:33 (twenty-one years ago)

The singular statement that separates Perry from Bateman is about the shoes. Dark brown shoes never ever go well with a blue (all shades) suit.

Never may be too strong, but this look does give off a touch of holiday camp advisor.

Barima (Barima), Friday, 7 May 2004 21:35 (twenty-one years ago)

Brown and blue never do, it's established sartorial dogma. Not convinced by little Michael there either.

Affectian (Affectian), Friday, 7 May 2004 21:37 (twenty-one years ago)

But Michael owned the world!

Anyway, I'm not sure that dogma rigidly extends towards darker (and darkest) blue suits.

Barima (Barima), Friday, 7 May 2004 21:43 (twenty-one years ago)

It does! I tried tonight and it's not AS bad but it's still bad. Black boots/shoes with anything blue, that's what you do.

More tuxedos please.

Affectian (Affectian), Friday, 7 May 2004 21:49 (twenty-one years ago)

It does! I tried tonight and it's not AS bad but it's still bad. Black boots/shoes with anything blue, that's what you do.

I wouldn't call it bad, I've seen it gotten away with enough times. Shrugs all round. White shoes (with blue and black) seem to have caught hipster interest...

More tuxedos please.

Can't be bothered, off to bed any sec. Here's Michael taking over the world.

http://www.neverland-valley.com/neverland-valley/gallery/victory-tour/pix/victory-tour_013.jpg

Barima (Barima), Friday, 7 May 2004 21:59 (twenty-one years ago)

Morrissey has been a very good example of suit wearing recently.

El Diablo Robotico (Nicole), Friday, 7 May 2004 22:00 (twenty-one years ago)

2004's other Comeback King, Prince, wore an interesting but fitting number in his One Nigt\ht Alone Tour DVD.

Barima (Barima), Friday, 7 May 2004 22:05 (twenty-one years ago)

I wonder if it was flexible enough to play basketball in?

El Diablo Robotico (Nicole), Friday, 7 May 2004 22:12 (twenty-one years ago)

If he could dance in it, I'd bet on it.

OK, last one:

http://www.mjfrance.com/site/artiste/live/tournees/j5jacksons/michael3.jpg

Barima (Barima), Friday, 7 May 2004 22:15 (twenty-one years ago)

White shoes are a silly flitty thing, suits aren't meant to be like that. Not necessarily a bad thing though.

As yet, I'm not brave enough to wear a cream coloured suit. However, the temptation is growing.

Affectian (Affectian), Friday, 7 May 2004 22:16 (twenty-one years ago)

you might just pull that off as long as the shirt is black, but wait isn't that a bit Matt Bianco?

i've committed suit crimes recently but no-one really noticed

stevem (blueski), Friday, 7 May 2004 22:28 (twenty-one years ago)

Barima quit puttin' your old family photos up willy-nilly

stevem (blueski), Friday, 7 May 2004 22:29 (twenty-one years ago)

Dark brown shoes never ever go well with a blue (all shades) suit

this was my crime - blue V dark tho. it's tolerable as long as nobody else in your presence is wearing anything even remotely approaching a suit (they weren't)

stevem (blueski), Friday, 7 May 2004 22:31 (twenty-one years ago)

basically i only just discovered this thread and have now read thru it all, laughing all the way - it's great stuff. i'm a suit novice and have drifted into it out of a desire to change (i don't usually give much of a toss about clothes but what the hell it's fun) and am basically making as many errors as i am right moves.

the whole black shirt/red tie vs red shirt/black tie is beyond passe but these things are cyclical, and in my case provide a novel thrill tho the former is more relaxed than the latter which only works in certain situations (e.g. going to the dogs, a Kraftwerk gig, lurching round NYC Guggenheim before sinking enough G&Ts to think you can pull off 'West End Girls' at karaoke - in my case 2 - tho perhaps if you're going to do karaoke you may as well have not worn the suit at all eh? haha).

stevem (blueski), Friday, 7 May 2004 22:47 (twenty-one years ago)

the first thing i thought of when i saw the "j5" button on michael jackson's lapel was "the king of pop likes jurassic 5?" but then i realised that jackson was black in the picture and actually had a nose.

todd swiss (eliti), Friday, 7 May 2004 22:55 (twenty-one years ago)

droogy Interpol Twat

My new phrase of choice.

Ned Raggett (Ned), Friday, 7 May 2004 23:35 (twenty-one years ago)

Don't try this at home

Mary (Mary), Saturday, 8 May 2004 08:40 (twenty-one years ago)

I just bought a black suit with a grandad collar, it was completely on a whim, I thought it looked Beatlesy.

Would wearing it out to indie soirees be a grievous crime? I haven't had the courage to venture out in it yet (it's a small town).

holojames (holojames), Saturday, 8 May 2004 13:17 (twenty-one years ago)

Here's a page with links to scans of Morrissey in suits and the interview in the April issue of (US) GQ.

The scans are huge and may take a while to download. My fave is Moz in a cream-coloured suit shot in front of Hollywood High School (sample pages 5,6).

I'm a bit worried about ruining my very nice silk suit jacket in the mad crush of the crowd (I've got a standing ticket - yay!), but I think I'll wear it to the May 22nd concert in Manchester anyway. I wore it to the Santa Barbara show in 2002 (was surprisingly tame in the pit for a SoCal Moz show), and it's still in good condition.

Melinda Mess-Injure, Saturday, 8 May 2004 13:58 (twenty-one years ago)

Rah for Mel! Reminds me, I was planning on e-mailing you and asking how things were!

Ned Raggett (Ned), Saturday, 8 May 2004 14:33 (twenty-one years ago)

Nice to see you here again, Melinda, and thanks for those links. Are you still living in Japan? I have tix to the Manchester show but I don't think I can go (my tix are crappy anyway).

Mary (Mary), Saturday, 8 May 2004 15:47 (twenty-one years ago)

how much does it cost to get a suit made?

jel -- (jel), Saturday, 8 May 2004 15:49 (twenty-one years ago)

My fave is Moz in a cream-coloured suit shot in front of Hollywood High School

Yes, this is the best. I'm not a big fan of Terry Richarson, but I may have to reprise my view. He did such a great job with these pictures.

Mary (Mary), Saturday, 8 May 2004 16:05 (twenty-one years ago)

Luke Haines wears suits better than an ageing Moz. So there.

Affectian (Affectian), Saturday, 8 May 2004 18:02 (twenty-one years ago)

I have this beige Oxford suit and I've been slimming down to fit into the trousers properly. I have the requisite blue and black shirts and a large selection of ties and I'll happily wear it to a summer FAP. I'll make Bernie Mac look like TK Maxx. Incidentally, I'll definitely wear both beige and white suits and I've evn got my eye on one in the former colour.

Barima quit puttin' your old family photos up willy-nilly

Btw, Stevem is not joking here.

"I was there when he hung out with Emmanuel Lewis. I said, 'Don't do it that way, you'll never work again.'"

Barima (Barima), Saturday, 8 May 2004 19:17 (twenty-one years ago)

I'd buy a white or cream suit if I had any money and it wasn't inevitable that some fucker would spill his beer on it within ten seconds of me going anywhere with it. I've got a pale grey suit that's nice though (mine cost £400, Jel, but you could probably do much better than that if you have more sense and shopping-endurance than me).

Red shirt with black tie does look good if the red isn't too garish. Indie kids with short memories will probably incorrectly pigeonhole you into D.I.T. instead of Kraftwerk but if you're OK with that/you don't have as faggy a haircut as mine then you won't care.

Moz looks quite good in suits, especially for An Old Dude and that, but it seems a bit 'haw haw I'm wearing a suit isn't that dreadfully classy and foppish'. I'm not quite FEELING it.

ferg (Ferg), Saturday, 8 May 2004 22:01 (twenty-one years ago)

Luke Haines has nothing on anyone, okay? 45 years young, okay?

Mary (Mary), Sunday, 9 May 2004 07:02 (twenty-one years ago)

http://www.redbulldozers.com/ddr1.jpg

Administrator, lock this bitch.

roxymuzak (roxymuzak), Sunday, 9 May 2004 09:09 (twenty-one years ago)

Yeah, Stevem's looking stylish there.

Ned Raggett (Ned), Sunday, 9 May 2004 13:00 (twenty-one years ago)

you can see by my face i am admiring ken's laissez-faire attitude to rocking a suit - or i am just in awe of his DDR moves

stevem (blueski), Sunday, 9 May 2004 13:10 (twenty-one years ago)

Hola, Ned and Mary!

Yes, I'm still in Japan. Despite the Governator in California and the madness of King George, I really want to go home. I hate my new job and my life. But I still enjoy wearing suits, particularly when I'm not working.

Mary, I saw your post about selling your May 22 ticket(s). That is too bad.

Ned, I'll have to email you later. You didn't see El Mozzer in Anaheim, did you?

Melinda Mess-Injure, Sunday, 9 May 2004 15:41 (twenty-one years ago)

Alas no -- did my last e-mail a couple of weeks back not go through? D'oh!

Ned Raggett (Ned), Sunday, 9 May 2004 15:59 (twenty-one years ago)

Melinda, I don't know if you follow the action over at ILM but there's been a spate of threads recently. Morrissey: The "Irish Blood, English Heart" thread is currently active. (I've been doing the Appolo so I'm not too upset about MEN.)

Mary (Mary), Sunday, 9 May 2004 16:48 (twenty-one years ago)

three months pass...
Brown suit, black shoes - can it be done?

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:21 (twenty-one years ago)

SPENCER-come to my aid.

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:21 (twenty-one years ago)

that is a strange question.

RJG (RJG), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:24 (twenty-one years ago)

Don't go all RJG on me, I need a proper answer!

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:25 (twenty-one years ago)

God no, adam, unless you want to permanently bury your metrosexual cred.

Michael White (Hereward), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:25 (twenty-one years ago)

It's hanging by a thin thread. You know these things, Michael.

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:26 (twenty-one years ago)

what is default, for a brown suit? brown shoes?

RJG (RJG), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:27 (twenty-one years ago)

I'd say yes to black shoes with a brown suit, but never the other way around.

Kim (Kim), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:29 (twenty-one years ago)

It's kind of a light brown almost khaki, with a thin dark pinstripe.

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:30 (twenty-one years ago)

no not khaki really

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:30 (twenty-one years ago)

yes, I admit that for brown shoes to go with a black suit, the shoes would have to be a very nice brown/shape or both.

RJG (RJG), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:30 (twenty-one years ago)

You can get away with brown shoes and a dark grey suit but black shoes must not be worn with a brown suit. Think NSDAP! Not good.

Michael White (Hereward), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:31 (twenty-one years ago)

So...I need brown shoes?

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:31 (twenty-one years ago)

I knew it.

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:32 (twenty-one years ago)

What color pinstripe?

Michael White (Hereward), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:32 (twenty-one years ago)

don't listen, to him; you don't need brown shoes.

RJG (RJG), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:33 (twenty-one years ago)

Probably best with a brown suit would be a darker brown than the suit (even a near black, but noticeably not blue black) or perhaps an oxblood.

If I were a man I'd probably be wearing green shoes though, so what do I know.

NSDAP?

Kim (Kim), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:33 (twenty-one years ago)

Think NSDAP

Well that WON'T do, obviously.

xpost-I...it's not in front of me. It could be navy or maybe black. very thin and faint.

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:33 (twenty-one years ago)

NAZIS, Kim.

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:34 (twenty-one years ago)

do listen, to kim; you do need green shoes.

RJG (RJG), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:35 (twenty-one years ago)

oily black shoes, oily black belt with big silver buckle, lt. brown suit with starched white shirt = banana republic 1997

gygax! (gygax!), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:36 (twenty-one years ago)

gygax, you are such a fashionista.

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:37 (twenty-one years ago)

Probably best with a brown suit would be a darker brown than the suit (even a near black, but noticeably not blue black) or perhaps an oxblood. OTFM

Michael White (Hereward), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:37 (twenty-one years ago)

Maybe you and Spencer could do your own version of popular British tv show What Not To Wear?

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:37 (twenty-one years ago)

dark brown. right.

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:38 (twenty-one years ago)

haha I've been wanting to sign up for BBC Canada just so I can watch that!

Kim (Kim), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:40 (twenty-one years ago)

It's GREAT.

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:41 (twenty-one years ago)

Are black brogues/wingtips okay with a tuxedo?

Dickerson Pike (Dickerson Pike), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:41 (twenty-one years ago)

what do other people know about what not to wear--it's an insane concept.

RJG (RJG), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:42 (twenty-one years ago)

Dude black shoes go with everything, wtf. Do I need to go get navy blue shoes to go with my blue suit now? The answer is NO. Black shoes, black belt, black socks. Brown shoes are for sissies, I never wear my brown shoes as it is.

TOMBOT, Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:44 (twenty-one years ago)

They do have an Amercican What Not To Wear as well - did you know? Probably not as good I figure, but it's still my one 'hate to miss' show. I'm not certain I'm watching for the right reasons though.

Kim (Kim), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:45 (twenty-one years ago)

the central issue is the fact that it is a brown suit!

suits should be black, shades of grey and (possibly) olive.

black shoes only.

(brown suits you can try and work with - blue is unacceptable.)

H (Heruy), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:48 (twenty-one years ago)

Tom, what I'm asking is DO I NEED TO WEAR THOSE UGLY ASS PATENT LEATHER SLIP ONS if I'm wearing a tuxedo? Because the formal clothes sections of department stores sell the shiny shoes along with tuxes.

Dickerson Pike (Dickerson Pike), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:49 (twenty-one years ago)

Not Tom but my answer would be that a nice suit is ALWAYS preferable to a tux.

H (Heruy), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:53 (twenty-one years ago)

I agree with you, but I'm going to a roast. Tuxedos are called for.

Dickerson Pike (Dickerson Pike), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 22:59 (twenty-one years ago)

H-actually, you could describe it as olive! It's a really nice suit, trust!

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 23:11 (twenty-one years ago)

I have black suits already, I felt like a change.

adam. (nordicskilla), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 23:11 (twenty-one years ago)

olive is very cool, but still gotta be black shoes.

now gotta figger out shirt and ties...

can we get pics?

H (Heruy), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 23:39 (twenty-one years ago)

For tuxedo, yes, you should be fine with smooth black plain toe shoes. I would not wear wingtips with a tux, I would feel too silly. No slipons though, I think that's going too far in the other direction maybe.

TOMBOT, Tuesday, 10 August 2004 23:51 (twenty-one years ago)

a brown summer suit could be okay.

oh man, black shoes with brown pants are a fucking nightmare. and sometimes i wake up in the morning without having done my laundry and i'm this close to having that combo forced upon me.

|a|m|t|r|s|t| (amateurist), Tuesday, 10 August 2004 23:54 (twenty-one years ago)

They do have an Amercican What Not To Wear as well - did you know? Probably not as good I figure,

As is usually the case, the American version of What Not To Wear is indeed pretty horrible.

Elvis Telecom (Chris Barrus), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 13:47 (twenty-one years ago)

The simplest way to avoid this conundrum is to NOT BUY BROWN PANTS. I was like this close to getting some last week and then I realized "wtf am I going to wear these with?" and put them back.

TOMBOT, Wednesday, 11 August 2004 13:50 (twenty-one years ago)

My bad, I went home and checked - the suit is definitely OLIVE with it a very faint BEIGE stripe. So maybe I can get away with my black shoes.

adam. (nordicskilla), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 14:10 (twenty-one years ago)

I wear brown trousers, quite often, and with whatever I like.

RJG (RJG), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 14:15 (twenty-one years ago)

brown suit jackets go well with black trousers, too.

ken c (ken c), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 14:16 (twenty-one years ago)

For tuxedo, yes, you should be fine with smooth black plain toe shoes. I would not wear wingtips with a tux, I would feel too silly. No slipons though, I think that's going too far in the other direction maybe. Exactly.

Michael White (Hereward), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 14:35 (twenty-one years ago)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v236/njsouthall/bestman.jpg
Just like that, innit.

[Yes that picture is taken after two bottles of Dom Perignon, but before two jugs of Pimms.]

Sick Mouthy (Nick Southall), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:03 (twenty-one years ago)

you look like a footballer there.

adam. (nordicskilla), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:19 (twenty-one years ago)

black shoes with an olive suit. what does this suit look like? what do these black shoes look like?

kyle (akmonday), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:21 (twenty-one years ago)

Are the olives stuffed with pimentos?

Michael White (Hereward), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:25 (twenty-one years ago)

you've seen the black shoes, i think.

the suit is Kenneth Cole.

adam. (nordicskilla), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:26 (twenty-one years ago)

well, I say "Kenneth Cole"...

adam. (nordicskilla), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:27 (twenty-one years ago)

Is that a compliment or not?

Sick Mouthy (Nick Southall), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:28 (twenty-one years ago)

I have a very light coloured brown suit - probably closer to 'tan/sand' coloured, and I wear black shoes/belt and the fashion police haven't arrested me yet, although maybe they are laughing too hard for all I know. While oxblood/dark brown shoes will work, I firmly believe you can wear black shoes & belt with ANY suit.

Rob Bolton (Rob Bolton), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:29 (twenty-one years ago)

But I wear these square toe slip on boots with suits, so what do I know. (they are nice boots though. I AM NOT A MOD.)

Rob Bolton (Rob Bolton), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:32 (twenty-one years ago)

do you want to be a footballer? do you want to look like one?

adam. (nordicskilla), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:32 (twenty-one years ago)

Well I do love playing football, but, um, no, not really.

Sick Mouthy (Nick Southall), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:33 (twenty-one years ago)

you look like a football, there.

RJG (RJG), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:33 (twenty-one years ago)

Tan/sand or khaki works with black shoes. Brown doesn't. You can think you're getting away with it but there are hordes of agents of aesthetic purity out there looking at you thinking, "You could try, you know! Ugh!"

Michael White (Hereward), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:35 (twenty-one years ago)

I am weeping, on the inside, RJG.

Sick Mouthy (Nick Southall), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:35 (twenty-one years ago)

Michael, did I mention that I will be wearing this suit at a wedding in Northern Indiana? Not that I mean to cast any aspersions on the good people of the Midwest, but as I know who will be attending, I am pretty confident the agents of aesthetic purity will be AWOL that day.

adam. (nordicskilla), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:39 (twenty-one years ago)

but do you dress for other people or for yourself?

|a|m|t|r|s|t| (amateurist), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:40 (twenty-one years ago)

http://goldeneyebooks.com/ccfpix/christiebrownsuitlarge.jpg

Rob Bolton (Rob Bolton), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:42 (twenty-one years ago)

good question.

adam. (nordicskilla), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:43 (twenty-one years ago)

and thanks, amateur!st, for not pulling me up on that post. It did come out kind of wrong.

adam. (nordicskilla), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:45 (twenty-one years ago)

as many of my posts do, this time of the morning.

adam. (nordicskilla), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:46 (twenty-one years ago)

Adam, I'm sure you will see a huge collection of truly awful suits. Worse, awful suits that are badly fitted.

Dickerson Pike (Dickerson Pike), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:46 (twenty-one years ago)

wtf adam, the people of the midwest have brought us great designs like fabulous cow-prints to decorate our kitchens, not to mention the overalls look! i guess this doesn't jibe with your big-city METROSEXUAL look but let me tell you they don't like QUEERS out there anyway

kyle (akmonday), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:49 (twenty-one years ago)

Remember adam, no matter how much it calls you, don't wear the orange bow tie with the olive.

Michael White (Hereward), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 15:58 (twenty-one years ago)

Am I wrong in remembering that it's an old "gentleman's fashion" credo that you never wear black shoes with a black suit? It's dark brown shoes, I think. The big clunky ones.
And if the shades match, I think brown shoes with brown pants would be a total nightmare. You'd look like you'd just been pulled out of quicksand. Or worse.

antexit (antexit), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 19:40 (twenty-one years ago)

Never wear brown in town. ONLY wear black shoes with a black suit.

Jimmybommy JimmyK'KANG (Nick Southall), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 19:42 (twenty-one years ago)

The first half of this thread (October 1st 2002 - May 9th 2004) is more interesting than the second half (August 10th 2004- August 11th 2004, on my watch).

Eyeball Kicks (Eyeball Kicks), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 21:30 (twenty-one years ago)

I couldn't disagree with you more.

adam. (nordicskilla), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 21:48 (twenty-one years ago)

Kim, Rob Bolton and Eyeballguy are all correct in this second rubbishy bit of the thread.

Affectian (Affectian), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 22:28 (twenty-one years ago)

THIS IS A 4 PART THREAD.

adam. (nordicskilla), Wednesday, 11 August 2004 22:31 (twenty-one years ago)

eight months pass...
Is the suit and fedora look a graceful way to slip into old age?

stephen morris (stephen morris), Friday, 29 April 2005 16:28 (twenty years ago)

Morning suit with top hat is better.

M. White (Miguelito), Friday, 29 April 2005 16:44 (twenty years ago)

sans fedora yes - with fedora it seems a bit more attention seeking than graceful.

jed_ (jed), Friday, 29 April 2005 16:53 (twenty years ago)

My clothes today, this particular pinstriped dark suit, plus tie, sunglasses, etc., have more than once had people claim I look like a bouncer or gangster. I guess that's better than just looking like a middle-aged guy in a cheap suit.

Martin Skidmore (Martin Skidmore), Friday, 29 April 2005 17:01 (twenty years ago)

...or a middle aged guy in sweatpants and a tshirt.

jed_ (jed), Friday, 29 April 2005 17:05 (twenty years ago)

No, I never look like that - I meant the latter as a statement of my reality, rather than as something I am better than. (Also I have seen photos of you, and you in sweatpants = better looking than me on the hottest day of my life.)

Martin Skidmore (Martin Skidmore), Friday, 29 April 2005 17:08 (twenty years ago)

oh no, i know what you meant martin! i was paying you your dues on not going down that road, sorry.

also thanks for the compliment :)

jed_ (jed), Friday, 29 April 2005 17:10 (twenty years ago)

six years pass...

I need to buy a suit. I have about three hundred dollars. I won't go to Men's Warehouse, and I think Brooks Brothers is out of my price range. I have only bought one suit before, and it was bespoke for ~ 1200.

I want

charcoal/dark grey
notched lapels
single vent
two buttons
unpleated trousers

Where should I go (Bostonish)?

aka vanilla bean (remy bean), Thursday, 22 March 2012 13:32 (thirteen years ago)

If you like Brooks Brothers but want cheaper, look at J. Crew and Perry Ellis. J. Crew has some very nice fabrics for their price point. But: if you've already got a bespoke suit, and you haven't gained/lost weight, you should go back to that tailor, s/he should have your patterns. For something as versatile as a charcoal suit, and considering you've already done the measuring, why not go bespoke, spend the extra cash?

mom in the woods (Ówen P.), Thursday, 22 March 2012 14:18 (thirteen years ago)

Old suit was lost in a move. Can't even really afford a new suit, but need one for the four weddings I've got to attend this summer. I'll check out J. Crew, I've got some credit there....

aka vanilla bean (remy bean), Thursday, 22 March 2012 14:20 (thirteen years ago)

WORST. I blew almost $2k on a bespoke suit (gorgeous black wool) a couple of years ago, wore it twice, forgot it in a hotel room. Since then, the tailor has been so chilly to me I've been too scared to ask for another.

mom in the woods (Ówen P.), Thursday, 22 March 2012 14:25 (thirteen years ago)

Check for outlets, especially around sale times. I've gotten my last four suits on sales, and have saved a BOATLOAD. As in, they are $1500 suits, and I got them for less than $500.

I know that Brooks Brothers, Hugo Boss, and Jos. A. Bank have outlet stores.

Also, check Jos. A. Bank's online offerings. Their stuff is of good quality, and a great value.

Sauvignon Blanc Mange (B.L.A.M.), Thursday, 22 March 2012 15:17 (thirteen years ago)

I wouldn't go Brooks Brothers if you want stylish, although they do have this "Milano" line that is supposed to be more euro-chic and if it's BB quality it might be decent. Don't use BB's in-house tailors. If you wait til the end-of-year sale or get lucky with clearance you can probably get a good suit for $400-500.

i don't believe in zimmerman (Hurting 2), Thursday, 22 March 2012 15:19 (thirteen years ago)

And definitely not Jos. A. Bank.

i don't believe in zimmerman (Hurting 2), Thursday, 22 March 2012 15:19 (thirteen years ago)

but yeah J. Crew is probably the best bet from what you're saying

i don't believe in zimmerman (Hurting 2), Thursday, 22 March 2012 15:20 (thirteen years ago)

if you've got summer weddings to go to and they're not like crazy formal you might be able to find a decent cotton/seersucker/irish linen suit in your budget. brooks bros non-wool suits are often on sale for around that. also can be worn to work unless yr like a lawyer or gordon gekko dude.

adam, Thursday, 22 March 2012 16:38 (thirteen years ago)

remy I think there's a line at macy's that might also fit your requirements? can't remember what the in-house name is tho

dayo, Thursday, 22 March 2012 17:22 (thirteen years ago)

Will rep for Macy's too.

kinder, Thursday, 22 March 2012 17:24 (thirteen years ago)

remy i got my newest suit at the brooks bros outlet in wrentham. about 400 bucks but you might be able to do better.

call all destroyer, Thursday, 22 March 2012 18:42 (thirteen years ago)

one year passes...

really really sick of this thing with suit jackets pulling at the button, which is exactly what a suit jacket should not do. At first I guess it was some kind of statement (along with the pants too short) but now every trendy person wears their suit that way and it looks dumb

huun huurt 2 (Hurting 2), Monday, 22 April 2013 02:04 (twelve years ago)

yeah, i hear that. sometimes i'm afraid that in a few years i will think that the clothes i am wearing now are too small

Pat Finn, Monday, 22 April 2013 02:10 (twelve years ago)

like a lot of this sort of thing, it looks best on fairly thin and tall people. But it's increasingly showing up on average build or more muscular people, and it makes them look uncomfortable and squeezed

huun huurt 2 (Hurting 2), Monday, 22 April 2013 02:28 (twelve years ago)

I mean I appreciate not wanting to wear a sack and having good tailoring, but there shouldn't be a bunch of wrinkle lines emanating from your jacket button

huun huurt 2 (Hurting 2), Monday, 22 April 2013 02:29 (twelve years ago)

getting the "fit" of clothes right requires a sensitivity to visual subtleties, which is not something everyone has, unfortunately. i know better than to have a suit jacket bunch up but some of my shirts and pants are pretty slim fitting and, idk, i hope they will withstand changes in fashion sensibilities over the next few years

Pat Finn, Monday, 22 April 2013 02:35 (twelve years ago)

yeah tbf I work in law, where most people dress solidly on the conservative side

I am also the grandson of a suitmaker, and I guess I just had it drilled into me that it's a bad sign if the suit jacket pulls at the button

huun huurt 2 (Hurting 2), Monday, 22 April 2013 02:53 (twelve years ago)

it's a horrible sign! i did not know that was a trend, god

call all destroyer, Monday, 22 April 2013 02:57 (twelve years ago)

it's def a sign when you look at fashion magazines, and then that sort of thing sort of inspires sloppy people to emulate. See also: not wearing dress socks with your suit.

See also: spectator shoes.

The Great Natterer (dandydonweiner), Monday, 22 April 2013 03:00 (twelve years ago)

whoa didn't even notice his suit pants are also horribly cut

huun huurt 2 (Hurting 2), Monday, 22 April 2013 03:07 (twelve years ago)

good job making yourself look even more constipated, DC

huun huurt 2 (Hurting 2), Monday, 22 April 2013 03:08 (twelve years ago)

this ultra slim fit nonsense needs to end

call all destroyer, Monday, 22 April 2013 03:11 (twelve years ago)

is this all thom browne's fault? or would the trend have happened without him?

Pat Finn, Monday, 22 April 2013 03:12 (twelve years ago)

this ultra slim fit nonsense needs to end

― call all destroyer, Sunday, April 21, 2013 11:11 PM Bookmark Flag Post Permalink

ultra slim pants look ok on ultra slim legs. They make meatier legs look ridiculous though.

huun huurt 2 (Hurting 2), Monday, 22 April 2013 03:18 (twelve years ago)

right! daniel craig is a dude with an athletic build and theyre trying to squeeze him into these tiny pants

call all destroyer, Monday, 22 April 2013 03:19 (twelve years ago)

i thought it was thom browne's fault originally, yes

surprised at daniel craig, didn't his suits in the actual film fit quite well? and does that jacket have three buttons and the middle one is buttoned?

seriously, THIS GUY (daria-g), Monday, 22 April 2013 03:29 (twelve years ago)

it seems that it has one of those top buttons that's under the lapel roll and never meant to be buttoned

call all destroyer, Monday, 22 April 2013 03:30 (twelve years ago)

ah yeah i see.

looked at a few stills from bond film -> several other awkwardly fitting suit jackets

seriously, THIS GUY (daria-g), Monday, 22 April 2013 03:42 (twelve years ago)

tbf suits crinkle awkwardly sometimes when you are engaged in hand to hand combat with trained assassins

Pat Finn, Monday, 22 April 2013 03:44 (twelve years ago)

eight months pass...

I picked up this suit on the relative cheap:

http://cdnb.lystit.com/photos/2013/08/19/boss-by-hugo-boss-grey-jamessharp-trim-fit-houndstooth-suit-product-1-12882484-945083296.jpeg

Feeling a little uncertain about shirt/tie combos that work though

signed, J.P. Morgan CEO (Hurting 2), Saturday, 11 January 2014 04:48 (eleven years ago)

Here the pattern shows better:

http://cdnd.lystit.com/photos/2013/08/19/boss-by-hugo-boss-grey-jamessharp-trim-fit-houndstooth-suit-product-4-12882484-944296656.jpeg

signed, J.P. Morgan CEO (Hurting 2), Saturday, 11 January 2014 04:49 (eleven years ago)

I mean it's m/less grey, most shirt/ties will work? Depends a bit on the visible pattern I guess, but just avoid checks?

Vote in the ILM EOY Poll! (seandalai), Saturday, 11 January 2014 05:20 (eleven years ago)

You don't look like you are at work if you wear a tshirt under the suit that has a "porn star" logo or some such.

Vote in the ILM EOY Poll! (seandalai), Saturday, 11 January 2014 05:29 (eleven years ago)

some great stuff in here http://www.buzzfeed.com/peggy/unspoken-suit-rules-every-man-should-know

piscesx, Saturday, 11 January 2014 06:38 (eleven years ago)

^ "22. Your tie should always be darker than your dress shirt."

But I like my black shirt + red tie! :-(

StanM, Saturday, 11 January 2014 06:48 (eleven years ago)

black shirt's basically the equiv of a porn logo

brimstead, Saturday, 11 January 2014 06:52 (eleven years ago)

Be brave. Be bold

, Saturday, 11 January 2014 10:31 (eleven years ago)

hi that buzzfeed article is trash just fyi

patron sailor, Saturday, 11 January 2014 12:05 (eleven years ago)

I think you have to get everything made bespoke so you need to be making money.
Have always wanted a zoot suit but never found one. & I think they'd cost a few hundred to get cut.
But wonder if once you're overa certain age zoot suit trousers just look like old man trousers with pegs since they come up so high on the waist. Think the top at the front is actually on the ribcage isn't it?

Other than that you can get mod suits in a few places around London and probably other large cities. & they probably don't look too office orientated. But you do want to watch what you're buying cos off the peg ones from Carnaby street aren't that great. There is a good shop on Portobello where the clothes part of the market is.
But they are definitely 60s orientated even with whatever quirks the shop adds.

There's also this guy who has some interesting but very expensive stuff that he makes in very small quantities. http://www.mendozamenswear.com/

Or keeping your eyes open in charity shops, possibly doing that combined with a bespoke tailor to alter or copy items you find in 2nd hand places might be an idea.

Stevolende, Saturday, 11 January 2014 12:07 (eleven years ago)

There is a good shop on Portobello where the clothes part of the market is.

Is that Adam Shener's? Got my basic off-the-peg suit from there years ago, always liked that suit.

Turned 40, getting married next year, hope to save up & go bespoke for the first time.

woof, Saturday, 11 January 2014 13:25 (eleven years ago)

that looks like it should be it, it's at the entrance to an interior shopping area under the Westway.
I've never bought anything from it but frequently looked in the window etc.

Stevolende, Saturday, 11 January 2014 13:30 (eleven years ago)

k another question, is a suit like this going to work as a formal suit?

http://shop.nordstrom.com/s/rag-bone-trim-fit-wool-suit/3550676?cm_cat=tellapart&cm_ite=mens_btc&cm_pla=suits/sets/wardrobers:men:tailored_suit&cm_ven=display_rt

I guess I just can't tell if the picture is supposed to imply not. Something about the jacket looks a little less structured, but maybe that's just how it fits the dude? Also just R&B is not what I think of as a classic formal suit brand.

signed, J.P. Morgan CEO (Hurting 2), Thursday, 16 January 2014 16:36 (eleven years ago)

actually now that I'm looking at it the trousers look a bit too narrow cut for me, but feel free to answer

signed, J.P. Morgan CEO (Hurting 2), Thursday, 16 January 2014 16:37 (eleven years ago)

i see exactly what you mean - jacket does look a bit casual in the pictures but copy lays on the 'lined, tailored' so ???

I have trouble analysing trousers that break that high, I just blank out and assume they are not for me.

woof, Thursday, 16 January 2014 17:04 (eleven years ago)

I think that looks pretty good.
I mean I think the guy's posture, shirt, and lack of tie make it look more casual that it might otherwise.

chinavision!, Thursday, 16 January 2014 17:17 (eleven years ago)

jacket's a little short though maybe?

chinavision!, Thursday, 16 January 2014 17:18 (eleven years ago)

yeah, having trouble telling if what I'm looking at is the suit or just cool guy ironic tailoring/fitting, like those fashion dudes who wear their suit jackets too tight

signed, J.P. Morgan CEO (Hurting 2), Thursday, 16 January 2014 17:19 (eleven years ago)

to me it also just kinda looks like the guy's wearing it off the rack, but he's going to get it tailored later in the week or something

chinavision!, Thursday, 16 January 2014 17:20 (eleven years ago)

I'm wearing a jacket that's too tight today :/
I need more money for clothes

chinavision!, Thursday, 16 January 2014 17:21 (eleven years ago)

tempted to pull the trigger and just return whichever of the two winds up looking worse on me (that or the boss suit)

signed, J.P. Morgan CEO (Hurting 2), Thursday, 16 January 2014 17:23 (eleven years ago)

I have a feeling it's the better quality suit, being R&B.

signed, J.P. Morgan CEO (Hurting 2), Thursday, 16 January 2014 17:23 (eleven years ago)

fabric looks nicer too

chinavision!, Thursday, 16 January 2014 17:28 (eleven years ago)

Well, ordered it, so we'll see. One thing I'm a little concerned about is the high top button - I think that might be what's making me perceive the shape as a little funny, but it may look different on me than that dude.

signed, J.P. Morgan CEO (Hurting 2), Thursday, 16 January 2014 23:21 (eleven years ago)

i think you're right about that and chinavision is right about the rest of the guy's look. no harm in trying it out tho.

call all destroyer, Thursday, 16 January 2014 23:26 (eleven years ago)

yup. clearance items are returnable there, which is sweet.

signed, J.P. Morgan CEO (Hurting 2), Thursday, 16 January 2014 23:46 (eleven years ago)

hrm, actually though, the more I look at it it's not all that different from the other suit I posted in terms of the lapel size, button height,etc. Maybe it's just less tapered? Maybe it really is just the fit and the dude's posture. Will report back. R&B is def not known for its suits, in fact googling around I could barely even find any R&B suits (maybe it's just something they do for Nordstroms). But they are known for well-made clothing so seemed worth a try.

signed, J.P. Morgan CEO (Hurting 2), Thursday, 16 January 2014 23:51 (eleven years ago)

I support your decision!

chinavision!, Friday, 17 January 2014 00:00 (eleven years ago)

ty!

signed, J.P. Morgan CEO (Hurting 2), Friday, 17 January 2014 00:01 (eleven years ago)

I'm a big fan of price of Wales check suits but wearing it with a check shirt is a definitely a on no. Have a fabulous Vivienne Westwood suite in pale bluey grey price of Wales, bought on hood last year, it is by far an away the bets cut suit I've ever owned. I think it works well with a lighter floral pattern shift, no tie but I hardly ever wear one. In fact I have a hard time conceiving of making a tie work with it. Possibly a Pucci print with a white shirt but that might be a bit much

I like the rag and bone suit. It's a bit country squire/brown in town but not so much it's a tattersall check shirt and flat cap away from requiring accessorising with a flat cap, land rover and shooting stick. Not full on tweeds but not full on sharp either.

American Fear of Pranksterism (Ed), Friday, 17 January 2014 00:36 (eleven years ago)

hurting, i think one thing you're going to notice (now that i've gone back to look at the boss suit) is a significant difference in the shoulders between the two. the boss shoulders look pretty built up, and the r&b look more natural.

call all destroyer, Friday, 17 January 2014 00:54 (eleven years ago)

yeah so that suit didn't work out after all -- but the material is the real problem. It's MUCH thicker and woolier than it looks in the pictures (which may also be what causes the effect I'm talking about with the structure of the suit). It's very professorial looking. Nice but I have no context in which I'd wear it.

signed, J.P. Morgan CEO (Hurting 2), Thursday, 23 January 2014 17:46 (eleven years ago)

Always makes me a bit sad to see this thread that I started 12 years ago - I still haven't got round to sorting out a good suit.

Eyeball Kicks, Thursday, 23 January 2014 18:40 (eleven years ago)

I have not been able to get the imagined sound of Ed's voice saying "brown in town" out of my head since that post

signed, J.P. Morgan CEO (Hurting 2), Thursday, 23 January 2014 20:06 (eleven years ago)

four years pass...

https://www.josbank.com/clearance-suit#facet::3074457345616780502741111154632653266971101073282101115101114118101&productBeginIndex::0&orderBy::0&pageView::grid&minPrice::&maxPrice::&pageSize::24&curPage::2&positionY::4900&edgeCaseFacets::size,fit,color,pattern,type,collections

Jos A Bank I know, but their top of the line "Reserve" suits are good quality and these are a very good deal today at 60% off clearance price plus an extra 20% off at checkout, coming to about $200 per suit. Half-canvassed and made from legit Italian fabrics, and the slim fit ones are not terribly boxy. Def on the conservative side but good quality.

Fedora Dostoyevsky (man alive), Tuesday, 27 November 2018 20:17 (six years ago)


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