How the hell do I refinish the floors in a small apartment?

Message Bookmarked
Bookmark Removed
I bought a small apartment back in 2001. It's got a wood floor covering most of the living space, which is nice. Unfortunately, it's a bit worn, especially in the foyer area, especially near the threshold to the kitchen. Making matters worse, back in 2001 I put the remains of a really oily Italian salad in a plastic bag on a worn area of the floor, with the intention of throwing the bag out when I got up the next morning. The bag leaked the oil, leaving me with a sizable stain which I've not managed to get rid of.

So the floor needs to be refinished -- but how? The apartment is so tiny that if I wanted to refinish the whole floor in one fell swoop, I probably won't be able to move my furniture into an unaffected area because there won't be one, haha! Well, I might be able to squeeze things into my kitchen and bathroom, but that would be an enormous inconvenience. I could concievably do the floor in sections, but I'm afraid the finish will end up looking uneven. And do I just sand the wood down till the stain disappears?

I've actually done some minor refinishing on this floor already with great success. The previous tenant actually put this disgusting contact paper down on the wood flooring in the closets (which is the same flooring as the rest of the apartment, seperated by a threshold or whatever the hell they call them) and the adhesive was so damned strong that the only that would remove ended up removing the finish as well. But refinishing was a cinch, it looks great, and really consistent with the rest of the flooring. Still, whether I do it or someone else does it, logistics is a problem. What to do, what to do?

Michael Daddino (epicharmus), Saturday, 17 May 2003 20:43 (twenty-two years ago)

And do I just sand the wood down till the stain disappears?

Are you looking to remove stain or varnish? If it's the latter, according to my mother it's possible to rent a machine that can do that. (I also want to refinish my apartment's floors.) I've heard references to bleaching wood but wouldn't know how to do that. Also, what solvent did you use to remove the contact paper?

j.lu (j.lu), Saturday, 17 May 2003 22:19 (twenty-two years ago)

Do it a half at a time, t won't look uneven. Rent the aforementioned floor-sander and a disc sander, too, for the edges and corners. Go over each area with rough paper first and then with fine. Don't leave the sander running on the floor as you will eat a hole thru your floor (this might be an exaggeration but it's definitely not the effect you want. Think of the big belt-sander like ironing clothes). The stain may have sunk down a bit into the wood so don't worry about getting it all off, just try to get it lighter. Where to put your stuff is a serious hassle no matter what you do, the last time I did this it was before I moved in so it was easy. If you really can't get the whole floor clear just do it in halves, a friend did it that way once and it looked great.

Tracer Hand (tracerhand), Saturday, 17 May 2003 23:23 (twenty-two years ago)

five months pass...
I just re-did the wood floors in my place, by myself, in a weekend.
Here's how, the shortcut method for the lazy that produced acceptable results with the minimum fuss.

Rent a floor buffer (mine was $20 for the weekend) and have them give you 120 stainless steel and 180 stainless steel screen. (about $5 each, two per room).

If there is wax on the floor buy stripper and use a wet-vac to suck up the gunk. My floors were so bad they were waxless so I skipped this step.

Using a buffer is like sailing a dinghy--keep it level, don't fight it and remember that tilting one way or the other will make it go one way or the other. Practice in the parking lot with an old buffer pad so you don't put holes in your walls. It took me about 30 minutes to get the hang of it. Start in the back room, in the center of the room for the same reason.

Use the 120 (coarse screen first)--this is your rough sanding. Vacuum up the dust.
Switch to 180 (fine screen) for your second sanding.
Vacuum up the dust, and damp mop the floor to get any excess up.

Using a water-based product called Sanding Sealer, apply in thin coats with a sponge mop. Let it dry (an hour). It soaks into the wood and corrects a lot of color issues.

Do it again, This penetrates the wood. Apply stain after that if you need to. I skipped that step, the wood looked fine to me.

Then you are ready to apply polyeurethane water-based sealer to the floor, with a sponge mop. 2-4 thin coats. Why water based? The oil based ones turn yellow with age. The advertising calls it "Amber" but it really means that in 5 years or so people will wonder who peed on your floor.

Take the screen off the buffer and turn over the pad to the clean side and buff your newly revitalized floor--Voila! New floor in a weekend.

Now this is the quick and dirty method for those of us who just want our crappy wood floors to look better for cheap and fast. If you have very high quality floors you may want to invest in the longer processes of floor sander/edger, three grades of sandpaper, stain, and lots more coats of sealer. (I used two coats of sealer)

I did take before and after pics, and the difference is night and day.

Orbit (Orbit), Monday, 27 October 2003 05:30 (twenty-two years ago)

My uncle (or aunt's husband, in case the family tree doesn't follow) told me once that his father did this kind of work as a teenager or something (chronology seems unlikely, actually, as ones uncle's fathers couldn't possibility have been teenagers).

He took bold measures that avoided a lot of the work listed above. And it was always in an empty house, apartment.

He mopped the floor to get it clean, then poured a enormous amount of varnish on the floor. With a squeegie, he moved it all around and made it even. One enormously thick coat of varnish. You then lock the house up for several days, and end up with super smooth, glossy floors.

This could be urban legend or a big fat lie, but it's what I was told.

Skottie, Monday, 27 October 2003 07:06 (twenty-two years ago)

two months pass...
I need to do this.

I also have a blonde wood (kitchen) table that has some light marks from water damage. Has anyone ever tried treating there? Can I wax them?

@d@ml (nordicskilla), Monday, 26 January 2004 01:40 (twenty-two years ago)

"treating these"

@d@ml (nordicskilla), Monday, 26 January 2004 01:40 (twenty-two years ago)

This is America, you either buy something new or else you appear on a PBS series over thirteen weeks discussing what you're doing with avuncular hosts. Hop to it.

Ned Raggett (Ned), Monday, 26 January 2004 01:42 (twenty-two years ago)

try a sanding adam, then use a sanding sealer and then a varnish.

Orbit (Orbit), Monday, 26 January 2004 02:22 (twenty-two years ago)

hell @d@m what have you done to your place in six months?

I want to do this too, because my carpet is disintegrating, plus the cat has pissed all over various parts of it. BUT, I pulled up part of the carpet and the floorboards don't even look as though they were meant to be shown; gaps, they don't join the walls perfectly, just genuine shit. I'm flirting with laminate/pergo. Has anyone done this? Do you have to sand down/fill in all the gaps on your floor before you put a wood laminate down, or does it come with some kind of mat you can put down? I'm going to try to convince my landlord to pay for the installation if I pay for materials, but he is a cheap fucker and doubt it will happen.

anthony kyle monday (akmonday), Monday, 26 January 2004 02:32 (twenty-two years ago)

one month passes...
revive!

@d@ml (nordicskilla), Sunday, 14 March 2004 23:03 (twenty-two years ago)

The area by my desk (wood floor) is worn from my hours of sitting transfixed by ILX and rocking back and forth to bluegrass MP3s. Do I polish it? Sanding sounds scary and permanent.

@d@ml (nordicskilla), Sunday, 14 March 2004 23:04 (twenty-two years ago)


You must be logged in to post. Please either login here, or if you are not registered, you may register here.