Basic Suit Knowledge

What shape are you? (tall, short, skinny, muscular, chunky?)

It absolutely depends on how much you're willing to spend. My gut tells me don't spend less than $500. But there are discount suit places and occasionally they have decent stuff (the men's warehouse, etc) although often it's 90% pleated pant hell.

If you're in or around NYC, I didn't check, but I'm guessing Century 21 would have good stuff for a ridiculous discount.

Also, what Anthony said re: cost. I have bought many suits and the ones that are best cost more. When you buy a cheapo for $200 you are going to get something that will not hold up wear. More money = better cut, better construction (less glue, more hand sewing, better sewing) and better fashion, usually. On the shoulder seams, for example, many times they are really rumply and you want them to be smooth (rather than create unsightly lines). Also look at the pants--how are the pockets constructed, are the pants lined with silk or some other material. Same with the jacket--look at the inside, turn it inside out and look at the construction. Really, the good way to do this is to go to a place that sells suits in a variety of costs (let's say a department store where you can lay a $250 suit and a $800 suit next to one another.) Then, you can really see the difference. And believe me, the differences are credible and worth paying for if you are going to wear it a lot.

It also depends on where you are going to wear it. Pleated pants are completely fashionable in most formal environments, for example, and they are much more flattering on 90% of the population than flat front. I wouldn't lose sleep on that aspect because it will limit your options quite a bit. Same with number of buttons.

If you are going to only buy one suit then buy something versatile and slightly conservative; something you can wear to a funeral, a wedding, and other formal occasions. You're better off to blow money on a high quality, conservative suit and then dress it up for the occasion with trendy ties, shoes, watches, belts, etc. If you want to draw attention to your suit and not the accessories, then you are probably a pimp.

Assuming you're not in some urban mecca but not too far out in the sticks, I would try a nice department store like Nordstrom's. My current wear-with-anything jacket came from there, and I have no complaints about it or any part of the buying process. If you'd be thinking about something more standard, Jos. A Bank is a decent chain generally specializing in a more traditional look. And yes, almost any place will tailor it gratis, and you should definitely let them do it. Don't be afraid to let them know if you don't like the way something feels, or looks, or makes you look. And if it looks good and feels good, then it probably fits well, although you should be sure and check out the back in the mirrors and make sure you can move your arms fairly freely (average gestures, no windmilling) without feeling it pull anywhere too much. Only the most blase tailors won't talk you through what they're doing and what it's supposed to do.

I think I'm with AKM on the price. If you spend less than ballpark $500, you're probably going to end up looking like you're wearing a cheap suit. And if, like me, you only buy this kind of stuff every few years, you wanna make sure you can get maximum use of it. For optimum flexibility, I'd recommend a lightweight wool in straight-up black. Goes with everything, works in almost any situation.

Oh, and budget about $50-60 if you can and get yourself a nice tie. Something with one predominant color, maybe a little shimmer to it. A nice tie can make a good suit look exponentially better.

If you like the idea of wearing a suit and you like the way you look in one, then get a decent one. Otherwise don't waste any more money than you have to - some people just don't suit suits and throwing money at the problem isn't going to help.

And you don't need to do tailoring beyond what you get in the store, provided that the people in the store know what they're doing.

A 3-button suit is fine; a 4-button is not.

I have two suits from Men's Wearhouse, a gray 3 piece for when I'm presiding over funeral arrangments and a blue 2 piece for just about everything else, I'm very happy with both of them and the chicks dig it.

OH if you go to an off-price "irregulars" and off-season place of the style of Century 21/Loehmann's/etc they aren't going to do altering for you. That's something to keep in mind.

That's true of Century 21, yes, but not of Syms. I can't imagine Today's Man/Mens Wearhouse/etc. don't do this, but I could be wrong.

I had a bad experience with Men's Wearhouse. Their sales dude was on commission and was pushing me like I was an idiot, trying to tell me I needed new ties, new dress shirts, and an overcoat. I wanted to tell him to fuck off but fortunately it came out as, "I only want a suit, stop telling me I need anything else or I will walk out." But quality and price-wise, they are pretty good. Also, my luck with tailor skill at the stores I've bougtht suits at has been VERY hit and miss. Some of them have no clue.

(he's really big and gay and southern in case anyone was wondering where that came from)

Crotch: You should have no problem slipping your hands into your pockets. If it's a squeeze, your strides are too small. If you can happily play with your genitals without disturbing the fabric (or members of the public) then chances are the trousers are too big.

We'll probably hit the new mall tonight. They've got a Nordstrom's anyway, so that's a start.

Last time I think they just eyeballed it, though.

For a cheap-o fabulous men's suit, I would suggest H&M. Crap tailoring and ill-fitting (unless you are built like a Swedish male model) but you won't spend hardly any $ on it, and you'll probably wear it only a couple of times anyway.

I have a LARGE tear in my suit - a 2" x 2" right angle of fabric has come away on the sleeve. Does anyone have any experience of getting this kind of repair done? I took it to a tailor who suggested I take it to a fabric place in order to get new material for the sleeve. They didn't have anything (it's a Ralph Lauren navy ghost/thin pinstripe) but recommended Stitch Witchery - no idea what this is but I have no experience with sewing or stitching whatsoever.

Do any tailors or weavers post to ILX?

This thread = classic, just for Tom referring to suit expenditures as "throwing money at the problem"

It is comforting to read others recommend Men's Wearhouse. I have a simple black suit from there that I'm very happy with, but another ILXor once told me that Men's Wearhouse is horrible and lame and unstylish. Whatever. It was cheap, they were nice to me, the suit fits.

If I buy a suit and then lose 20 pounds, will it still fit?

nope, you'll look like a 17 year who borrowed his dad's suit for a weding.

i'm a skinny guy anyway, so i just always buy the tightest suit i can find (via topman) makes me feel like i'm in the man from uncle or something.