france (not paris)

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hoping to visit the french countryside a bit this month (by which i mean, april). small towns, roman ruins maybe, cathedrals maybe. but i believe it will be too expensive to rent a car. so i will have to rely on the train (to get to the region where i'm going) and the bus (to get into the countryside).

any recommendations? hot tips? i mean, obviously there's an embarrassment of riches here. i could go to brittany, to alsace, to provence, to the cote d'azur (on second thought, maybe not the cote d'azur).

i was thinking maybe departing for tours and then wandering around the loire. or heading to aix-en-provence and trying to get to a few nearby towns. but a-e-p itself seems like it'd be kind of touristy.

it's not the summer, which probably means fewer tourists but also not as many flowers in bloom and no festivals.

amateur!st (amateurist), Monday, 29 March 2004 14:28 (twenty-two years ago)

I love the Alps, personally, but I guess they're not as definitively French. Carry on.

Markelby (Mark C), Monday, 29 March 2004 14:31 (twenty-two years ago)

Am, please, you must go look at all the wankers when it's time for Cannes.

I suggest Marseilles too, for un certain vibe de Genet.

suzy (suzy), Monday, 29 March 2004 14:34 (twenty-two years ago)

Are you likely to be away April 9, Amtst?

I recommend Brittany - it's lovely. Specifically, a beautiful little place called Huelgoat.

Jerry the Nipper (Jerrynipper), Monday, 29 March 2004 14:34 (twenty-two years ago)

Aix is great and probably not that touristy at this time of the year. It's mostly a student town. Then you can go to Avignon and Arles from there, they're all well connected by train.

Baaderoni (Fabfunk), Monday, 29 March 2004 14:35 (twenty-two years ago)

Go to the Loire if you like gigantic fairytale chateaux and vineyards and the like - also you can use Tours as a base for exploring the rest of the area and have the bonus of a bit of city life as well.

The Dordogne is lovely too - big rolling hills and valleys and old crumbling towns and a nice ride up the river if you can get one. Might be a little remote to explore without a car though (and frankly terrifying with one for that matter).

Matt DC (Matt DC), Monday, 29 March 2004 14:37 (twenty-two years ago)

Go to the bullfights in the Roman colisseum in Nimes.

jules ou jim, Monday, 29 March 2004 14:38 (twenty-two years ago)

Also go to Chenonceau, purely to see this building.

Matt DC (Matt DC), Monday, 29 March 2004 14:41 (twenty-two years ago)

Alternatively, Ed and I spend a lot of time in the Perpignan area but that's really hard without a car. The village where we stay, not far from the border with Spain, hasn't had a train since the late '70s but if you can get to Perpignan or Carcassone or similar you'll get well into French Catalonia, which is its own treat.

(also we might be in Paris next weekend)

suzy (suzy), Monday, 29 March 2004 14:43 (twenty-two years ago)

ooh email me if you dare :)

thanks for all the tips

when is cannes, the festival i mean? that would be a riot...

amateur!st (amateurist), Monday, 29 March 2004 22:12 (twenty-two years ago)

Aix is wonderful. If you take the TGV down, you can get a taxi to town & do without a car while you're there, it's fairly compact. I was only there for 2 days for a friend's wedding, but I took rolls & rolls of pictures of the Old Town & the Cours Mirabeau...amazingly beautiful. If you want to see a few shots of mostly the Old Town, I have some up here:
http://artsyfartsy.undef.com/gallery/532

lyra (lyra), Monday, 29 March 2004 23:58 (twenty-two years ago)

I spent every Easter for about the first 14 years of my life in the Haute Pyrenees so I'm a touch biased, but really, it's absolutely gorgeous up there. The area around Campan is my neck of the woods. If you can arrange a spit roast pyrenean lamb for Easter Sunday it will be the best thing you've ever tasted (unless you are vegetarian or hate lamb). The Cirque de Gavarnie is jawdropping - a kind of massive rock horseshoe covered in waterfalls and really good hikes. It won't be full of tourists in April either. If you're a fan of the Tour de France you could take the hair-raising drive up to the Col d'Aspin and wonder how on earth they do it on a bicycle. Actually, I think you have to do that anyway to get to Gavarnie. If you want a hilarious tackfest, go to Lourdes, but more than about an hour there is a bit much. Then I'd recommend going down to Saint Bertrand des Comminges - it's a huge basilica in the middle of an almost completely intact medieval village.

Madchen (Madchen), Tuesday, 30 March 2004 08:08 (twenty-two years ago)

Cannes is not a riot. It's hugely crowded and expensive, as everyone's on expenses except you. Seriously, go somewhere beautiful and relax.

Markelby (Mark C), Tuesday, 30 March 2004 08:12 (twenty-two years ago)

Saint Bertrand:
http://www.chronotours.com/images/etoiles2.jpg

My village:
http://www.arcouade.com/images/ste_marie.jpg

Madchen (Madchen), Tuesday, 30 March 2004 08:14 (twenty-two years ago)

Vicky and I always stay around St Quentin, in Picardy, it's nice but there's not a lot to do (we mainly drive around vineyards or fish in the lake on the site), but places like Laon are nearby, as well as Reims and Epernay for all the champagne.

chris (chris), Tuesday, 30 March 2004 08:31 (twenty-two years ago)

Sisteron is worth a vist and is on the Marseille-Aix en Provence -Gap/Grenbole rail line and is beautiful. A fortres town wedged in a valley. Perfect time of year to visit as well.

Carcassone and Villefranche le conflet are good if you like pyreneen fortress towns and should be fairly quite at this time of year, although there is the danger of screaming hordes of brits and their brats abroad.

Ed (dali), Tuesday, 30 March 2004 08:42 (twenty-two years ago)

Another vote for Piucardie as well here.

Ed (dali), Tuesday, 30 March 2004 08:42 (twenty-two years ago)

i think i'll be taking a trip to chartres today, just staying one night so i don't have to rush. but i still hope to travel elsewhere, i'm leaning on french catalonia if the cost of a ticket isn't too high.

amateur!st (amateurist), Wednesday, 31 March 2004 07:37 (twenty-two years ago)

The coats is lovely from Coulioure to the border, and all on the train. The sleeper is the best, and probably cheapest way of getting down there.

Ed (dali), Wednesday, 31 March 2004 08:42 (twenty-two years ago)

i would say marseille. i have never been, but i would like to.

royan is nice

gareth (gareth), Wednesday, 31 March 2004 09:08 (twenty-two years ago)

Chartres is very nice indeed.

Matt DC (Matt DC), Wednesday, 31 March 2004 10:29 (twenty-two years ago)

Le Palais du Facteur Cheval. This postman built a utopian palace with his bare hands in his spare time.

Japanese Giraffe (Japanese Giraffe), Wednesday, 31 March 2004 10:53 (twenty-two years ago)

argh i couldn't reach anyone at the hostel or the cheaper hotels in chartres before 11 am so i gave up.

i think, since i don't have a car, that provence is the best bet--i can stay a few nights each in avignon and/or arles and/or aix. and from any of these towns i can take buses out to see some of the countryside, etc.

any comments on the youth hostels in these places? or maybe someone knows of especially cheap but reliable hotels near the centers? i read some dauntingly negative things about the hostels in aix and avignon. i guess i could pay up to 30 euro, maybe a bit more, for a hotel room but if the hostels are standable i'd prefer them.

thanks again for all the advice. one day i'll see the rest of the country, just don't have the time or money right now...

amateur!st (amateurist), Wednesday, 31 March 2004 10:56 (twenty-two years ago)

...

amateur!st (amateurist), Thursday, 1 April 2004 06:50 (twenty-two years ago)

I think you're more likely to find cheaper accomodation in Arles than in Aix or Avignon, although I can't really recommend ny hostel. Be careful to check in advance whether the mistral is not in full swing though, or you might be spending your whole time in your hotel room..

Baaderoni (Fabfunk), Thursday, 1 April 2004 08:21 (twenty-two years ago)

I always had you down as a Bognor Regis girl, Madchen.

I like the Basque bit, but I am also biased. It looks like Madchen's village, only with more colours and bigger noses.

PJ Miller (PJ Miller), Thursday, 1 April 2004 11:54 (twenty-two years ago)

not to mention the better ham

chris (chris), Thursday, 1 April 2004 12:15 (twenty-two years ago)

Not better lamb though. PJ, my English seaside places were Ferring, Goring, Littlehampton or Worthing.

Madchen (Madchen), Thursday, 1 April 2004 12:20 (twenty-two years ago)

That's more like it. I was almost as disconcerted as when we found out Tim isn't really from Sidmouth.

PJ Miller (PJ Miller), Thursday, 1 April 2004 12:37 (twenty-two years ago)

ts: ham vs lamb

amateur!st (amateurist), Thursday, 1 April 2004 14:14 (twenty-two years ago)

% of world population that abstain from pork? I think I win. Thank you.

Madchen (Madchen), Thursday, 1 April 2004 14:25 (twenty-two years ago)

Bah!

PJ Miller (PJ Miller), Thursday, 1 April 2004 14:44 (twenty-two years ago)

seven years pass...

friend and myself heading to south of france for easter i think, wondered if people had any tips for towns to check out. we're flying to bergerac or biarritz and going to go to san sebastian at some point, and probably other places too.

anyone been to sarlat-la-canéda? looks pretty. are there other areas or places we should check out?

Will.Have.Known (Local Garda), Tuesday, 12 April 2011 08:24 (fifteen years ago)

i dont have any tips, but oh man so jealous of you going to san sebastian, the foods meant to be amazing

just sayin, Tuesday, 12 April 2011 08:42 (fifteen years ago)

yeah am reading about it now, it's a bit of a rushed organisation to the extent that it's only dawning on me how fun it'll be. i am so psyched for endless fish and anchovies and stuff...

Will.Have.Known (Local Garda), Tuesday, 12 April 2011 09:00 (fifteen years ago)

yeah my friends went last year + said that it was crazy the quality of the tapas at pretty much every bar you go into.

just sayin, Tuesday, 12 April 2011 09:07 (fifteen years ago)

outside of paris i've only been around carcassonne/pyrenees region, heading there in october again all going well.

the salmon of procrastination (darraghmac), Tuesday, 12 April 2011 10:14 (fifteen years ago)

Food in Lyon also amazing, cheap. And a nice little town, kinda like a miniature Paris.

and the hint of parp (ledge), Tuesday, 12 April 2011 11:25 (fifteen years ago)

that username, i want it

the salmon of procrastination (darraghmac), Tuesday, 12 April 2011 12:08 (fifteen years ago)

I spent a week a few kilometers from Sarlat-la-Canéda five years ago (in a village called Castelnaud). It was wonderful---castles over the Dordogne, absolutely fabulous food, caves. We visited the caves with prehistoric painting in Lascaux which is pretty close to Sarlat, 20 minutes or so by car. A little further away, maybe 40 minutes by car, is Rocamadour, which is a town built into a side of a mountain, and a medieval pilgrimage site, really gorgeous. I love this region & will happily return many times.

Euler, Tuesday, 12 April 2011 14:14 (fifteen years ago)

four years pass...

i think my favourite region has to be Gazcony

where are the rock bands? (Noodle Vague), Tuesday, 22 December 2015 21:32 (ten years ago)

i was reading about gazcony in the hundred years war this week!

The term “hitler racism” from Carmen Van Kerckhove at Racialicious (nakhchivan), Tuesday, 22 December 2015 21:34 (ten years ago)

top region

Coombesbat 18 (Noodle Vague), Tuesday, 22 December 2015 21:34 (ten years ago)

http://i.imgur.com/RrZHxiI.png?2

The term “hitler racism” from Carmen Van Kerckhove at Racialicious (nakhchivan), Tuesday, 22 December 2015 21:38 (ten years ago)

wish i had some dope poitou wine to drink to the health of paul gazcoigne this week

The term “hitler racism” from Carmen Van Kerckhove at Racialicious (nakhchivan), Tuesday, 22 December 2015 21:39 (ten years ago)

of course if you go a little further along the coast you enter Gazque territory

Coombesbat 18 (Noodle Vague), Tuesday, 22 December 2015 21:41 (ten years ago)

two years pass...

Any specific restaurant/bar recommendations for Lyon, Toulouse or Marseille? Somewhere that you personally vouch for? I know Lyon the best but still haven't managed to do a traditional bouchon (always not feeling like a heavy dinner).

Yerac, Thursday, 4 January 2018 19:23 (eight years ago)

In Marseille (where I lived for a year): at the higher end, Une Table au Sud (i went shortly after he got his Michelin Star). At the lower end, Chez Etienne, where the supions are astonishing. The pizza and steak are great too.

droit au butt (Euler), Thursday, 4 January 2018 21:26 (eight years ago)

Mmmmm Chez Etienne seems great. It's up that hill/lots of stairs??? (whatever that neighborhood is)

Yerac, Thursday, 4 January 2018 21:36 (eight years ago)

In the Panier, but easy to get to from the tram

droit au butt (Euler), Thursday, 4 January 2018 21:39 (eight years ago)

I was only there for a day last year, the stairs were fine. It was an interesting walk. We ate at some place by the port (recommended), on top of a hotel that had outdoor seating. My spouse who only eats fish, accidentally ordered a huge squid ??? He was disappointed and I had to eat the mystery seafood.

Yerac, Thursday, 4 January 2018 21:44 (eight years ago)

Well supions are squid like fish (really, little cuttlefish) but the preparation at Chez Étienne is divine.

The old port has a lot of touristy fish places but once I ate there on a boat and it was worth it.

droit au butt (Euler), Thursday, 4 January 2018 22:18 (eight years ago)

This was, I think, a large squid cut into long strips and grilled. We described it to our friends in Gigondas and they guessed it was a large squid. I can't wait to go back. I thought Marseille was amazing and was sad we were only there for the day. Granted, we will be there at the end of the month so hopefully the weather won't be too drab.

Yerac, Thursday, 4 January 2018 22:23 (eight years ago)

It’ll be nicer weather than Paris! It’s sunny there like 300+ days a year.

droit au butt (Euler), Thursday, 4 January 2018 22:29 (eight years ago)

We are trying to figure out if it's worthwhile to go to Nice for 2-3 days (have never been). We have some days to kill between Lyon and Toulouse so figured we could stay only in Marseille.

Yerac, Friday, 5 January 2018 14:21 (eight years ago)

seven months pass...

keep thinking about this door we stumbled across two years ago in languedoc

https://i.imgur.com/aUpefH6.jpg

ogmor, Friday, 17 August 2018 09:58 (seven years ago)

#justfrenchthangs

illegal economic migration (Tracer Hand), Friday, 17 August 2018 12:07 (seven years ago)

Je suis Jean Lafitte. Ceci est ma porte.

the body of a spider... (scampering alpaca), Friday, 17 August 2018 14:46 (seven years ago)

had the best oysters of my life at toinou in marseille

J0rdan S., Friday, 17 August 2018 16:12 (seven years ago)

This is the stupidest comment I realize, but Marseille has one of the nicest starbucks I have ever been in. Maybe because no one was in it. I have been to Marseille twice since this last post and still didn't make it to Chez Etienne. Either closed or we couldn't locate it.

Yerac, Friday, 17 August 2018 22:43 (seven years ago)

did you go to Nice?

illegal economic migration (Tracer Hand), Friday, 17 August 2018 22:46 (seven years ago)

No, still have not been. We do this route of Lyon, Marseille, Toulouse a lot and try to fit in something new but then we get lazy, sleepy and just want to be easy. Although we did do San Sebastian in July as the new Spain thing.

Yerac, Friday, 17 August 2018 22:52 (seven years ago)

I did get tear gassed during the world cup when we were trying to get sushi in Paris so I guess that counts as a new thing.

Yerac, Friday, 17 August 2018 22:53 (seven years ago)

seven months pass...

im going to nice in may, its gonna overlap-ish w the monaco grand prix & the cannes film festival btw o_o

johnny crunch, Tuesday, 2 April 2019 00:41 (seven years ago)

two years pass...

Man who slapped Emmanuel Macron gets four-month jail sentence

A French court has sentenced a 28-year-old man to four months in prison for slapping France’s president, Emmanuel Macron, in the face.

Damien Tarel was quickly arrested after the swipe that caught Macron’s left cheek with an audible thwack on Tuesday, as the French leader was greeting a crowd.

Okay, I don't know much about the French legal system, and I'm all for a speedy trial, but is this normal? Sentencing the same week as the offense?

Andy the Grasshopper, Thursday, 10 June 2021 21:47 (four years ago)

shame he’s probably a fascist because it would have been really cool

Left, Thursday, 10 June 2021 22:00 (four years ago)

The dude is indeed a fascist but I nonetheless recommend the video.

Van Horn Street, Thursday, 10 June 2021 22:58 (four years ago)

xxp yeah it's called "comparution immédiate", it can be used in certain cases (and the accused has to agree)

Dinsdale, Saturday, 12 June 2021 16:25 (four years ago)

nine months pass...

really disgusting piece from National Pinhead Radio, about Le Pen's campaign of "unity and inclusion"

https://www.npr.org/2022/04/08/1091769547/french-voters-will-decide-whether-to-give-macron-a-2nd-term-this-weekend

not that abysmal foreign policy takes are a rarity at NPR, but i do find it particularly offensive that these gullible, mediocre non-journalists feel the need to provide cover for fascists by implying that the FN can be "de-toxified," to use EB's phrase herein

budo jeru, Friday, 8 April 2022 22:01 (four years ago)

Did they go to any diners in the French equivalent of Ohio?

Otto Insurance (Boring, Maryland), Saturday, 9 April 2022 01:00 (four years ago)

one month passes...

Seeing a disconcerting number of Zemmour posters around Normandy but not Le Pen? Were there Zemmour Bros who wouldn’t vote for the lady(?)?

DAMAGED by Black Flat (Boring, Maryland), Friday, 13 May 2022 19:55 (three years ago)

No? She got 4 times as many votes he did in the first round.

gyac, Friday, 13 May 2022 20:21 (three years ago)

Almost 5, I should have said.

gyac, Friday, 13 May 2022 20:22 (three years ago)

eight months pass...

im going to nice in may, its gonna overlap-ish w the monaco grand prix & the cannes film festival btw o_o

― johnny crunch, Tuesday, 2 April 2019 bookmarkflaglink

I will be in Nice next week for a yoga intensive.

Does anybody have any recommendations for places to eat out? Not sure I will be seeing much of it tbh..

xyzzzz__, Wednesday, 8 February 2023 11:54 (three years ago)

Sorry I copied the msg below to ask how was it at that time?

xyzzzz__, Wednesday, 8 February 2023 11:55 (three years ago)

nine months pass...

whats good in lyon

Daniel_Rf, Monday, 27 November 2023 10:48 (two years ago)

eat at a bouchon in the old town
check out the programme of gigs at le transbordeur
that's all I got

lord of the rongs (anagram), Monday, 27 November 2023 10:57 (two years ago)

five months pass...

Anyone know what’s happening in New Caledonia

Are you addicted to struggling with your horse? (Boring, Maryland), Sunday, 19 May 2024 19:57 (one year ago)

whats good in lille

cajunsunday, Thursday, 23 May 2024 09:33 (one year ago)

Loads! Any particular sort of thing you’re after?

Tim, Thursday, 23 May 2024 09:55 (one year ago)

Thanks. planning on going with a friend for 3 days in Sept/Oct. What are some good cafes, restaurants, museums, touristy things?

cajunsunday, Thursday, 23 May 2024 20:57 (one year ago)

Museums:

The Palais de Beaux-Arts is a good strong provincial art museum, not vast but worth it imo. They have a nice little Botticelli and a dicey Van Gogh. It’s right in town.

The Modern Art Museum (LaM) has a small decent (slightly random iirc) permanent collection and some of its temporary shows are outstanding. Set in a cute little sculpture park. Bit of a faff to get to on public transport (CityMapper covers Lille now btw and I found it vg the other weekend; the travel cards are chesp iirc)

La Piscine is a delightful gallery / museum in (you guessed it) a former public swimming baths in Roubaix (a suburb a tram ride away). Their collection is not really for me but it’s always a great pleasure to visit.

Other touristy bits: not terribly far from LaM is the Villa Cavrois, a luscious, meticulously-restored big art-deco house, super-lovely if that’s your thing.

People say the trip up the bell tower is good, but I’ve never done it: you have to book and also heights, bleh. You won’t be able to miss the bourse on the grand place and that’s good because the book market in there is worth a few minutes.

I find myself having a wander around the pleasant few streets of the old town, have a good modern beer in La Capsule (I always expect them to be snooty, they never are) or more of a trad brown bar thing at l’Illustration. You won’t struggle to find bars around there. I really like Jaja, amazing wine + cheese/charcuterie planks, most convivial, book or turn up early.

Lille’s not terribly touristy so even the restaurants that look like tourist traps (ie most of the old places that call themselves estaminets) aren’t terrible IME. We got slightly caught out the other week by trying to eat at just-gone 2 on a Sunday - lots of places looked open but weren’t. We wound up going up the rue Gand, lined with estaminets and eating in the only one we found open - les Ptiots. I was fully expecting a sad, poor experience but they were v nice and the food (carbonnade, Welsh) vg. Eat a Welsh! Ham sandwich drenched in a cheese/beer sauce. Yum!

More refined dining to be found in and around the rue des Bouchers. My absolute favourite restaurant in town (god knows my knowledge is hardly comprehensive) is Brigand over by the Palais de Beaux-Arts, not cheap but not expensive, excellent in all ways except they don’t open on a weekend which is when I’m usually there. We went early on a Friday once just to get a visit to Brigand in. It’s one to book, again.

The market at Wazemmes is a good bet for lunch, there’s some decent eating and drinking around there too, I’ve limited experience with the area around the south end of the JB Lebas park (which might be called Moulins) - and I was there to see a show - but I’m told it’s worth a wander.

Tim, Friday, 24 May 2024 06:33 (one year ago)

That last paragraph is describing two distinct areas btw, shoulda had a full stop not a comma.

Tim, Friday, 24 May 2024 06:34 (one year ago)

Oh I should add that my absolute 100% favourite thing to do in Lille is to visit the Chapelle Sainte Thérèse de Lisieux on the unpreposessing, awkward-to-reach outskirts of the not-very-exciting suburb called Hem. The building itself is plain and small but I absolutely love the stained glass in there. http://histori.hem.free.fr/images/ste_therese/mur-NORD-gauche.jpg

Tim, Friday, 24 May 2024 06:52 (one year ago)

Anyone know what’s happening in New Caledonia

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsa1Cdg1egE

Short primer on it here. The Azerbaijan meddling accusations are...unexpected

anvil, Friday, 24 May 2024 21:01 (one year ago)

Thanks so much Tim!! That's so helpful.

cajunsunday, Friday, 24 May 2024 21:15 (one year ago)

Pleasure.

If anyone has any Dijon tips, I’m all ears.

Tim, Saturday, 25 May 2024 05:58 (one year ago)

one year passes...

Here's a 20 minute thing I made with old friend James H about our surprisingly eventful 1991 school trip to France. You can read or listen but listening is best. Sorry for the self-indulgence.

https://centuriesofsound.com/2025/07/23/2-4-la-promenade-de-la-vie/

This is the only surviving photo of me on the trip, it was taken by another child (I dunno who) while I was asking them not to. The other photos from the trip are of items in the Normandy landings museum (all useless because I was using my flash on the glass), a few close-ups of crab cages and a close-up of a teacher getting off with the coach driver (detailed in the link)

https://i0.wp.com/centuriesofsound.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/2.4-La-promenade-de-la-vie.png

Proust Ian Rush (Camaraderie at Arms Length), Wednesday, 23 July 2025 10:46 (eight months ago)


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