Under Their Influenceby Maureen Callahanfrom the NY Post
February 3, 2005 -- IN addition to working as the creative director for the Soho and Tribeca Grand hotels and being a self-described "tastemaker," 36-year-old Tommy Saleh advertises for Prada, Chanel, APC, Paul Smith and Jeremy Scott - secretly.
"Chanel did a pair of gold sneakers for me, and a skull-and-bones brooch," he says. "APC gives me so much stuff - like small-collar white shirts. A small-collar white shirt means a lot to me."
Saleh also owns over 100 pair of shoes worth about $500 each, and a rack of suits by Prada and Paul Smith - a wardrobe worth well over $100,000, all given to him for free.
Which begs two questions: Why and how?
"A lot of people want to put their clothes on me, because of all the fabulous things I do," says Saleh, with no trace of irony.
Some of the fabulous things Saleh has on his schedule: attending fashion weeks in N.Y.C., Paris and London; going to the Miami Winter Music Conference, then the Coachella Music Festival in California; curating his "very strict guest list" for live music nights at the Tribeca Grand and club-hopping with members of Interpol and the Yeah Yeah Yeahs.
"My friends are tastemakers," Saleh says. "I get asked maybe 10 to 20 times a day what I'm wearing."
Saleh is part of a new kind of advertising phenomenon - one that goes beyond more established methods like street-teaming (campaigns orchestrated to look as though they're "up from the street," through graffiti or sidewalk chalk scrawls, for example) or stealth marketing (in which corporations hire young, attractive, charismatic people to go into bars and clubs and be "overheard" raving about a brand of alcohol or cigarettes).
"If the right person is wearing the right thing, people want it," says Kelly Cutrone, founder of the fashion branding firm People's Revolution. Cutrone gives thousands of dollars worth of free clothes to Saleh and other New Yorkers who aren't rich or famous, but who run in desirable circles and wield a lot of social influence.
"We call it 'mainlining,'" she says. "That means we take it out of the industry and put it on people on the street, so that they're seen."
Cutrone says the civilians on her gift list "don't have to be knockouts - they just have to have great style. And it helps if they're really skinny."
Like Natalie Joos - who may not be a boldface name, but who is exclusively casting the models in Marc Jacobs' shows this season.
"She looks really great in clothes, she's skinny, and people look to her because of the circle she runs in - they ask what she's wearing," says Cutrone.
Also on Cutrone's list: Bjork's best friend (but not the Icelandic singer herself, as "she's already sorted"); the kids who work at Patricia Field's (they got stuff from Boy George's new line), and, formerly, bartenders and waiters at places like 44, the Soho Grand, and Indochine - "where the beautiful kids are."
And this kind of secret advertising, in which your best friend, or their super-cool acquaintance - or your waiter - may be selling you something without you ever suspecting, is hardly limited to the realm of high fashion.
Ashley Gillespie, a 29-year-old marketing associate at Knopf, was working on publicity for author Haruki Murakami's next novel when she noticed that her friend Chriss Slevin was reading one of Murakami's books.
"Ashley was surprised," recalls 30-year-old Slevin, who works for the New York Foundation for the Arts, "because not that many people had heard of him."
As it turned out, Gillespie had recently compiled a mailing list of non-media contacts who were highly influential in their social spheres.
"Ashley gave me an advance copy and a link to the Web site," says Slevin. "She knows that I read a lot and talk about the books I'm reading to my friends."
Gillespie says she came up with the idea to send free books to select non-media types because she personally responds to recommendations from friends rather than traditional advertising or publicity.
"If I read a good review for a movie, I might not be immediately inclined to go buy a ticket - but if a friend of mine who went to a free screening was talking about it, I'd probably go."
Gillespie keeps her list small (about 100 people), and has strict criteria: "It has to be people who love to read, have time to read, but who also go to parties and are social. I don't want anyone who works 16 hours a day."
She has no problem turning down anyone who doesn't meet her standards, because "my goal is not to push books - it's to put books in the hands of people who will connect with them and talk about them."
Ken Weinstein, who runs the music p.r. firm Big Hassle, has a similar philosophy: "I don't have a list, but I'll send free CDs to friends who I love, and who will talk to their friends," he says.
The friends he actively courts "have discerning taste," he says. "They dress well, and their homes are well appointed."
And, more importantly, their own friends will copy that taste.
"I know if my friend Gary Meister tells his friend Jen about a record, then Jen will go buy that record," says Weinstein.
Meister agrees.
"I think I have a higher taste level," says Meister. "I like things that are edgy and weird and compelling. Then I get obsessive and berate people and make them listen to it and tell them they have to buy it."
Leigh Lezark, a DJ and promoter who throws the weekly downtown dance party Misshapes, is arguably one of the most influential New Yorkers in the music industry, though few outside her circle know who she is.
"I get a whole bunch of free stuff - free CDs, clothing, makeup," says Lezark, who is in her early 20s. "People will say, 'I see you around; everywhere you go people are looking at you and your style.'"
Since co-founding Misshapes - which has become the Saturday night destination for downtown scenesters and art-school kids - a year ago, Lezark has been given about $15,000 in free goods and services.
"Lacoste wants to give us free clothing; they heard about us through Misshapes," she says. "I get into sold-out shows all the time, like Interpol at Roseland - I don't even know how much it would cost to go see Interpol at Roseland. Fashion Week is not a problem - last year I was on line for the Marc Jacobs party and someone just pulled me out of the line and let me in. I can't remember the last time I paid for a drink."
But Lezark's true influence is felt in the music industry.
"At a place like Misshapes, they play a song, and all the cool kids will be like, 'Who is that?'" says Carmelita Morales, a publicist at addVICE Marketing.
Morales, who gives Lezark CDs to test out at her party, points to the recent mainstream success of the Killers (who played on "Saturday Night Live" a few weeks ago) as proof.
"It was important to give the Killers street cred - because if it comes from the radio, all the club kids and tastemakers would never go for it. You want them to hear it in the clubs first."
To that end, addVICE threw the band's record release party at Misshapes about a year ago. "This was right after they had played to a half-empty crowd at Bowery Ballroom," says Morales. "But tapping into that e-mail list to get those kids into the Killers was really the main thing. Misshapes is a part of their lifestyle."
"And," Morales adds, "if you get 10 Leighs in a city to support something, it'll be successful."
― firstworldman (firstworldman), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:08 (twenty-one years ago)
― Pears can just fuck right off. (kenan), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:26 (twenty-one years ago)
― firstworldman (firstworldman), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:34 (twenty-one years ago)
― hstencil (hstencil), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:36 (twenty-one years ago)
― gem (trisk), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:36 (twenty-one years ago)
― Magic City (ano ano), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:37 (twenty-one years ago)
― Pears can just fuck right off. (kenan), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:40 (twenty-one years ago)
http://lindsayism.com/2005_02_01_archive.php#110745341715786808
― S!monB!rch (Carey), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:44 (twenty-one years ago)
http://www.nycvisit.com/_uploads/images/F_TommySaleh.gif
― Alex in NYC (vassifer), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:46 (twenty-one years ago)
― Pears can just fuck right off. (kenan), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:48 (twenty-one years ago)
FILM AT NEVER
― TOMBOT, Friday, 4 February 2005 03:49 (twenty-one years ago)
http://www.eyecandyforthebrokenhearted.com/tommyselah.jpg
― kate/papa november (papa november), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:52 (twenty-one years ago)
― gem (trisk), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:53 (twenty-one years ago)
― gabbneb (gabbneb), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:54 (twenty-one years ago)
michael jackson's space suit.
― Pears can just fuck right off. (kenan), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:56 (twenty-one years ago)
and also that guy seems kinda fatter than the article seemed to imply these people could be.
― firstworldman (firstworldman), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:58 (twenty-one years ago)
― TOMBOT, Friday, 4 February 2005 03:58 (twenty-one years ago)
"A lot of people want to put their clothes on me, because of all the fabulous things I do."
― Jordan (Jordan), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:59 (twenty-one years ago)
xpost
― kate/papa november (papa november), Friday, 4 February 2005 03:59 (twenty-one years ago)
― gem (trisk), Friday, 4 February 2005 04:00 (twenty-one years ago)
― TOMBOT, Friday, 4 February 2005 04:00 (twenty-one years ago)
― hstencil (hstencil), Friday, 4 February 2005 04:01 (twenty-one years ago)
― firstworldman (firstworldman), Friday, 4 February 2005 04:02 (twenty-one years ago)
it reminds me of throbbing gristle for some reason
― Amateur(ist) (Amateur(ist)), Friday, 4 February 2005 04:14 (twenty-one years ago)
― TOMBOT, Friday, 4 February 2005 04:19 (twenty-one years ago)
-- hstencil (hstenc!...) (webmail), February 4th, 2005 4:01 AM. (hstencil) (link)
because they're preoccupied staring at kristin davis's navel?
― Amateur(ist) (Amateur(ist)), Friday, 4 February 2005 04:21 (twenty-one years ago)
― hstencil (hstencil), Friday, 4 February 2005 04:24 (twenty-one years ago)
― Site Admistrator (deangulberry), Friday, 4 February 2005 04:39 (twenty-one years ago)
― hstencil (hstencil), Friday, 4 February 2005 04:40 (twenty-one years ago)
― hstencil (hstencil), Friday, 4 February 2005 04:41 (twenty-one years ago)
― Pears can just fuck right off. (kenan), Friday, 4 February 2005 04:49 (twenty-one years ago)
― Pears can just fuck right off. (kenan), Friday, 4 February 2005 04:57 (twenty-one years ago)
― Riot Gear! (Gear!), Friday, 4 February 2005 04:59 (twenty-one years ago)
― Pears can just fuck right off. (kenan), Friday, 4 February 2005 05:03 (twenty-one years ago)
But the Haruki Murakami bit was amusing. The only Murakami reader I've ever known was a sixty-something Welsh man who has just about nothing in common with the hipster audience these companies are trying to capture.
― j.lu (j.lu), Friday, 4 February 2005 06:36 (twenty-one years ago)
― walter kranz (walterkranz), Friday, 4 February 2005 07:28 (twenty-one years ago)
― Hurting (Hurting), Friday, 4 February 2005 07:39 (twenty-one years ago)
― Allyzay Dallas Multi-Pass (allyzay), Friday, 4 February 2005 07:45 (twenty-one years ago)
― Hurting (Hurting), Friday, 4 February 2005 07:46 (twenty-one years ago)
― lauren (laurenp), Friday, 4 February 2005 10:49 (twenty-one years ago)
― Alienus Quam Reproba (blueski), Friday, 4 February 2005 10:59 (twenty-one years ago)
― phil-two (phil-two), Friday, 4 February 2005 12:32 (twenty-one years ago)
― lauren (laurenp), Friday, 4 February 2005 12:38 (twenty-one years ago)
― S!monB!rch (Carey), Friday, 4 February 2005 14:46 (twenty-one years ago)
― f--gg (gcannon), Friday, 4 February 2005 14:51 (twenty-one years ago)
― phil-two (phil-two), Friday, 4 February 2005 17:53 (twenty-one years ago)
― Markelby (Mark C), Friday, 4 February 2005 17:54 (twenty-one years ago)
mark, please.
phil, i don't know.. was it the one who made out with him already?
― lauren (laurenp), Friday, 4 February 2005 17:57 (twenty-one years ago)
― lauren (laurenp), Friday, 4 February 2005 17:59 (twenty-one years ago)
― phil-two (phil-two), Friday, 4 February 2005 18:07 (twenty-one years ago)
― Markelby (Mark C), Friday, 4 February 2005 18:08 (twenty-one years ago)
― Riot Gear! (Gear!), Friday, 4 February 2005 18:14 (twenty-one years ago)
― Michael Daddino (epicharmus), Friday, 4 February 2005 18:21 (twenty-one years ago)
― Leon the Fatboy (Ex Leon), Friday, 4 February 2005 18:23 (twenty-one years ago)
― firstworldman (firstworldman), Friday, 4 February 2005 20:38 (twenty-one years ago)
― Dude, are you a 15 year old asian chick? (jingleberries), Friday, 4 February 2005 20:45 (twenty-one years ago)
Plus of course a celeb in L.A. is probably in show business and quite likely to be known beyond SoCal.
― Riot Gear! (Gear!), Friday, 4 February 2005 20:47 (twenty-one years ago)
Indie Presenceby Robert Lanham
http://www.freewilliamsburg.com/december_2003/indie-presence.html
Judging by the shiner around Mark Owen's eye and the splint on Derek Berk's pinky and index fingers as they stood on Orchard Street on Manhattan's Lower East Side, no one would have accused the musicians of losing the anti-Establishment ethos inherent in the indie-rock scene.
"Things got a little crazy in DC," Berk said.
At first sight, their band The High Strung seemed aptly named, as they explained they got into a fist fight with each other a few nights prior. Now, the band members were calm and articulate and appeared to be best of friends, and excited to be part of the College Music Journal Festival that took place this year in New York.
Every year the CMJ Network, best known for publishing a weekly music journal, rolls into Manhattan to host a four-day event showcasing nearly a thousand indie and underground bands and performers at virtually every rock venue in the city.
This year, as part of a promotional event, the uberhip The Fader magazine teamed with Levi's, Urban Outfitters, and Converse to provide a home base for the bands in a rented storefront on Orchard Street. "The Den" was a place for the bands, many of whom were living out of their tour vans, to relax, drink complimentary Red Stripe, listen to DJs, eat free pizza, play Xbox, and best of all, get some free clothes provided by Levi's and Converse.
For the members of The High Strung, having a lounge to visit to rest their tour-weary legs couldn't have been more ideal. Pointing to the quintessential band bus sitting in disrepair and badly in need of a paint job, Berk said, "We've been on the road for 22 months and currently have no residence."
Despite their apparent state of depravity, the musicians were impeccably dressed in new designer jeans, coats, and sneakers provided by Levis and Converse as part of the companies' newly emerging "presence marketing" strategies. Moments before, the band had been fitted and photographed wearing the gear by company reps inside The Den.
As stated by Marisa Brickman, who helped organize the event for The Fader's publisher, Cornerstone Promotion, as a "product seeding sweep:"
"These bands are poor, and we're like, we'll clothe you, we'll feed you, we'll give you beer, we'll take your picture. It makes them feel special that they got invited."
Despite indie rock's iconic reputation for being distrustful of everything corporate, Ms. Brickman appears to be right. Nearly fifty bands handpicked by Cornerstone agreed to stop by The Den during this four-day event to be photographed and to take advantage of all the free stuff. Bands including Seattle's Pretty Girls Make Graves, and the New York bands Panthers and Enon all took part in the event.
Given the reality of tough economic times and the high profile use of indie music in Gap, Apple, and Volkswagen commercials—not to mention the controversial use of a Shins song in a recent McDonald's advertisement—a majority of the bands voiced few if any concerns about taking the free clothing or being photographed by Levi's and Converse who pointedly try to attract musicians, artists, and trendsetters for branding. "The economy sucks, free clothes are free clothes. I don't think you can really use me to market a product," said Anton Newcombe of The Brian Jonestown Massacre moments after participating in the photo shoot.
Au contraire, Sheri Timmons, the stylish Director of Presence Marketing for Levi's explained wearing an AC/DC belt and sporting a hip, downtown mullet. She said that as corporate America's marketing budgets begin to dwindle, companies are beginning to understand that increasing brand visibility can often be done more organically and cost effectively. "It's really about presence, not about paying money to sponsor something but about making sure that you have that presence to make sure your product is represented in the right way," Timmons said.
Ms. Timmons job at Levi's helps secure this presence. Presence marketing, as she described it, compliments the strategies of a traditional marketing department by "sampling the product in a way so that the right people know about it and can spread the word on a grassroots level."
The right people, when targeting the indie-loving hipsteratti, have never been celebrities or musicians who appear on MTV, but instead the lead singer of an obscure band, a local visual artist gaining recognition on the gallery scene, or, before electroclash lost its cool, a club promoter like Larry Tee. The bands that were photographed at The Den, Timmons said, give the company street credibility by appearing on stage in the clothing or by spreading the word about how cool Levi's is for providing them with free stuff.
Additionally, the pictures taken at events such as The Den, are often used in magazines like The Fader, Interview, and Spin as press shots in their editorial sections. In the past, shots featuring indie favorites including The Boggs, Princess Superstar, and Phantom Planet wearing the brand have also been featured as multi-page "advertorials" in hip culture magazines like Paper.
Most of the bands appreciate the opportunity to get involved, Timmons explained, since the advertorials—for which the artists are generally not paid—provide them with exposure. Other bands are simply glad to be given free press shots wearing clothing they'd probably buy anyway, provided they could afford it.
Other promotions have involved setting up tents at music festivals where products are given freely to the bands. Levi's even rented a practice space during the South by Southwest festival in Austin, Texas, sending reps over to hand out free gear to the bands.
Branding aside, Timmons claimed that it's important for Levi's to give something back to the artists as the company's heritage is deeply rooted in music. "We were worn by The Clash, Elvis Presley, The Strokes and Britney Spears," said Timmons. If you look at the history, Levi's is joined at the hip with rock and roll."
Not surprisingly, fashion companies such as Diesel and Converse also have presence marketing campaigns that target trendsetters and musicians to show their support of underground culture while securing cool branding for their products. As Kelly McCauley, a 25-year-old "pop culture fanatic" and Presence Marketing Director at Diesel explained, sometimes even people right off the street designated as having a hip, downtown aesthetic can be part of their marketing strategy. "If we meet someone at a show who may be appropriate to be getting products from us, we'll take them into the [Diesel] store," said McCauley.
Beyond the fashion world, brands such as Rheingold and Red Stripe have been paying more and more attention to their "indie demographic" with whom their brands are already popular. Cornerstone's Marisa Brickman, who is also a consultant for Rheingold, which she called a "dirty rock and roll beer" said that the company commonly sends free samples to indie clubs such as Knitting Factory to be distributed to the bands. The concept is simple; if the band you show up to see is drinking Rheingold, it must be cool.
So how do marketing departments discern who is cool anyway? Many turn to Cornerstone Promotion, a marketing company that Co-President Jon Cohen described as a "music, film and brand marketing company deeply rooted in culture." Apparently their cultural roots run very deep; The Fader, a music magazine published by Cornerstone (Jon insists the magazine operates completely independent of the marketing company) was recently ranked the number one trendsetting media magazine by the L Style Report, a qualitative brand research company.
In their seven years of operation, Cornerstone has functioned as the extended marketing arm for a diverse client roster, helping companies in part to determine which bands, artists, and events would best appeal to the hip, urban demographic coveted by marketers. Despite Cornerstone's reputation for being able to discern who and what is cool, the 35-year-old Cohen rolled his eyes at the suggestion he is a "cool hunter."
"Anyone that's cool hunting isn't cool," said Cohen. "We don't need to hunt. We're already out there."
Jon said Cornerstone's passion for music and culture inspires them to create tasteful and symbiotic partnerships with specific artists and brands. The Den is a prime example of how Cornerstone brings what he called "non-exploitive" branding to the world of indie music.
Nevertheless, a few of the participating musicians at The Den did voice some reticence to having their bands involved with a corporate-sponsored marketing event. "I'm taking my clothes, I'm lighting a fire, and I'm leaving," joked Kyp Malone of Brooklyn's TV on the Radio.
Moments later, while the band was being photographed in their newly-acquired gear, band members held up paper plates with ironic messages scribbled upon them, including: I'm hungry and I'm scared.
While visiting New York for the CMJ festival, Sub Pop founder and President, Jonathan Poneman stated that he believes opinions about advertising have evolved since the Eighties and early Nineties. "I think bands today don't want to be associated with the Establishment either, but their protesting against the Establishment is done in much more meaningful ways than resisting marketing dollars," Poneman said.
Mark Hosler of Negativland, a politically-charged independent band from the Eighties, claims that the notion of independent music has changed profoundly since its onset. "If someone had told you 20 years ago that Vans would be sponsoring music events for skateboarder kids," he said, "no one would have believed it."
"Advertising is everywhere," Mark continued, but attaching your band's name to a brand he believes "cheapens what you do as an artist." Admitting that the indie world's opinions about advertising have probably softened, he confessed that most bands today would probably consider his opinions to be "quaint."
Granted, grabbing free clothing at a promotional event like The Den is widely different than selling your song to be used in a Volkswagen commercial. Nevertheless, most of the bands at The Den confessed they couldn't imagine most indie bands from the previous generation participating in a similar event.
But as Dave Walsh from The Explosion said: "It's a matter of choosing your battles. I don't see the harm or the exploitation in an event like this. And who wouldn't want free jeans?"
― firstworldman (firstworldman), Monday, 7 February 2005 19:18 (twenty-one years ago)
Maybe I can get Target or something to do this for me.
― nabisco (nabisco), Monday, 7 February 2005 20:47 (twenty-one years ago)
― gygax! (gygax!), Monday, 7 February 2005 20:53 (twenty-one years ago)
― gygax! (gygax!), Monday, 7 February 2005 20:55 (twenty-one years ago)