A thread to catch up with Tep, who cooked some stuff and did some things

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I didn't want to further clutter the cheese thread.

Oh, we should have a candying thread, I'm candying jalapenos. Y'all are so uncaught up on the state of my kitchen.

-- Tep

Tell all, then!

-- I will commence to drop a knowledge bomb.

Well, it isn't cheese!

The main things I've done that are easy to identify as Bloomington-era developments are candying (soaking fruit in a sugar syrup of gradually-increased strength; different fruits flavor the syrup to varying extents, citrus most of all and cherries not very much, so sometimes the syrup itself is a good by-product and sometimes not), sweet applications for saffron (dulce de leche, brownies, candying again -- pineapple in saffron syrup -- and ice cream), fruitcake (yes rly, and my boomcake -- pineapple-habanero -- will lay you out), and um there must be stuff I've done that isn't dessert.

Oh yeah, curing meat I mentioned. Very big on duck confit, too, and there is a treasured jar in the fridge of foie gras confit flavored with bourbon and bacon. Sometimes I have a little of that on a biscuit or a fried egg on Sunday mornings.

Big fan of rendang, which is in heavy rotation now: it's like a coconut milk-based curry that's cooked down until the fat "breaks" out of the coconut milk, and the mixture then fries in it. Finally made real coq au vin, with roosters marinated five days in wine, and it's the beefiest damn chicken in town. Finally figured a fried chicken recipe I like that doesn't require a good deep fryer I'm not willing to buy: seasoned-flour it (no wet dip, marination optional, marination in unadulterated Louisiana hot sauce wonderful); let it sit thirty minutes; flour it again; pan-fry it in enough oil to come up halfway, flipping twice-ish.

And that's ... probably the highlights, I think. Oh, and the Bloomington Farmer's Market carried real stone-ground grits twice a year, so I stocked up on those, that was a real revelation.

-- Tep

Right now, like this weekend, I'm making bacon out of pork butt and Pop Rocks.

-- Tep

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 14:51 (nineteen years ago)

That is blowing my mind and even making me use emoticons (badly). What function do the Pop Rocks serve?

I will commence to drop a knowledge bomb. (Rock Hardy), Saturday, 15 July 2006 14:55 (nineteen years ago)

The thing about the Pop Rocks is I was thinking about carbonated bacon again, and the candy companies have been on this Latino push, right? Tamarind lollipops and &c. So when I was looking at Pop Rocks for the carbonated bacon thing -- a riff on my toffee bacon, bacon coated in Pop Rocks -- I came upon Pop Rocks Limon, which is kind of the fizzing version of Twang: heavily salted Pop Rocks (salt is the first ingredient).

So I have a shitload of those in the cabinet waiting for projects.

And I was curing pork butt for bacon, cause it was on sale and all, and the fat content of sliced pork butt is about right, though it won't cook the same as belly or jowl, I realize.

For curing pork, you use a combination of salt, sugar, and seasoning.

These Pop Rocks are salt, a higher percentage of sugar, and seasoning.

So it kind of had to happen. I added some curing salt to the Pop Rocks to pinken the bacon and bring the salt level up, and we'll see how she does. It won't be carbonated, so the Pop part of the Rocks is irrelevant to this project.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 14:58 (nineteen years ago)

I think it would be fun to spend a week or so playing Burt Wolf, looking over your shoulder in your laboratory kitchen and taking notes.

I will commence to drop a knowledge bomb. (Rock Hardy), Saturday, 15 July 2006 15:03 (nineteen years ago)

By the way, I keep trying to convince my wife that chicken thighs are better than breasts, but she ain't havin' it.

I will commence to drop a knowledge bomb. (Rock Hardy), Saturday, 15 July 2006 15:12 (nineteen years ago)

And hi dere again Mr. Tep.

Ned Raggett (Ned), Saturday, 15 July 2006 15:12 (nineteen years ago)

Ahah. Well. This weekend:

Ma po tofu last night, sort of. Turns out I'm out of Chinese black beans -- I moved recently and am still in that "oh wait did I let her keep the such and such?" mode, which is a bitch in the kitchen -- so it was really just tofu simmered in a spicy pork-and-soy-and-ginger sauce.

Hummingbird cake. Lord love a duck. One of those platonic Southern cakes in that it's sweet as goddamn, a carrot-cake-like cake with mashed bananas, crushed pineapple, and pecans, topped with a cream cheese frosting. I'm gonna have to freeze most of it, it's maybe the richest cake I've ever tasted.

Cured the bacon, put some steak tips in the fridge for dry-aging -- I duct-tape a mesh lemon bag to the side of the door and put paper-towel-wrapped beef in it so the air circulates and the towels wick. Um, tried to do a key lime pie foam, but I have not mastered the air whipper thing and always get something wrong with it. Made some pesto with a lot of basil and some pecans, because I use pecans for almost everything nutty.

Today I've got one of those family packs of boneless chicken thighs, so I'll have Thai basil chicken for dinner/lunch I think, and pre-cook the rest with some vegetables for a chicken cobbler type thing tomorrow (I'd make chicken pot pie but have frozen biscuits and not pie crust).

I think that's it so far.

Oh! Roasted lemonade. I might make roasted lemonade. This needs to be mentioned, everyone should do this:

1: Take a bunch of lemons. Most of a bag's worth if they came that way. Wash them well if necessary to remove wax. Meyer lemons are very good for this but probably not worth the extra price.

2: Chop them all but one in half. Reserve that loner for later.

3: Put them in an oven dish with enough water to come up at least halfway and about as much sugar as you reckon's good for a pitcher of lemonade, maybe a little less. Call it a cup if it's a big pitcher, even if you like your lemonade on the tart side.

4: Bake for an hour or so, 375, stirring a few times -- you want the lemons very soft, browning in places, but the liquid still there.

5: Let cool to room temp. Squeeze all the pulp from the lemons, which is easiest when not yet cool.

6: Puree the liquid and pulp with at least two lemons' worth of the rind/pith. I tend to puree all of it, but most don't. Strain into a pitcher, squeezing out as much liquid as possible. Freshen with the juice from the reserved lemon. Sweeten to taste.

What you end up with is something with the flavor profile -- the slight bitterness with the sour and the sweet -- and the opaqueness of white grapefruit juice, only lemon. Very different from juice-and-water style lemonade, and since the lemon oil is involved there, even the lemon flavor itself is a little different, a little less ... sharp?

Makes a great Salty Dog or Greyhound, too, the gin kind, not the damn vodka things.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 15:14 (nineteen years ago)

Hello Ned!

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 15:15 (nineteen years ago)

welcome back tep!

kingfish cyclopean ice cream (kingfish 2.0), Saturday, 15 July 2006 15:18 (nineteen years ago)

I saw that roasted lemonade recipe on your food blog and thought "I must try that." Then I forgot. After I get past the usual July Work Hell I want to get back in the kitchen in a big way.

I will commence to drop a knowledge bomb. (Rock Hardy), Saturday, 15 July 2006 15:22 (nineteen years ago)

welcome back tep!

Thank you :) You're on LJ, though!

Rock: Very worth making. I did it once because I had a bunch of Meyer lemons that needed to be used very soon, and it's been a staple since. Though maybe less so now, I'm out of gin.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 15:24 (nineteen years ago)

thread of 2006 so far. welcome back t-man!

s1ocki (slutsky), Saturday, 15 July 2006 15:25 (nineteen years ago)

Ahah, I hope it isn't. Slocki, have you had Sortilege, or any of the other maple liqueurs they're doing now? I can get some here, but my experience with maple wine was not a good one.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 15:29 (nineteen years ago)

The basics of the non-cooking stuff, for the record: single and living in New Hampshire for a couple years, aiming for Charleston or Santa Fe after that.

Still adjusting to the food differences up here -- just to stick to that thread -- what with the approach to seafood being so vastly different from Louisiana's but the availability of it being the opposite of in Indiana. The sheer indifference towards food here -- and especially to flavor -- is disheartening, though I realize my stint in Indiana was colored by the puddles of pocket money that accumulate in college towns.

The cornbread's sweet and the tea isn't, and I think I'm the only one buying the okra. But the sandwiches are nice.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 15:36 (nineteen years ago)

How'd you do that foie gras confit? I've got a frozen bag of duck and goose livers I'd like to deal with in a tasty way. (also several canning jars full of duck and goose fat)

Jaq (Jaq), Saturday, 15 July 2006 15:50 (nineteen years ago)

u r a treat, Tep.


What's the address of this food blog? Also: I loved New Hampshire when I lived there in college. Where are you located (generally)?

gbx (skowly), Saturday, 15 July 2006 15:57 (nineteen years ago)

I did it not nearly as carefully as you probably should, but I tend to be like that -- I'm terrible at sushi, beyond "hey I bet a little slice of grapefruit would be nice with that scallop"/"oh yeah it was." It's never pretty and sometimes not even all that intact.

So, the foie gras. I don't remember how much of a lobe I used, but it wasn't a whole one, so I had no qualms about cutting it up further -- not grinding or mincing it, but sort of cutting it into chunks after it was deveined. Put those in a preserves jar, with a splash of good bourbon and some minced cooked excellent bacon (smoked pork jowl, Indiana's best product). There was probably a little white pepper in there too. I don't think I added any duck fat but I may have -- don't think it needed any, though, judging by the size of the fat cap on it now.

Put the jar in a pot of hot water that came up about 2/3 of the way and left it barely simmering for an hour-ish -- cooking slowly, but cooking. Capped it. I'm sure there's a canning procedure that should have then been followed, but I haven't been botulized.

I wind up having to remelt the fat periodically to maintain that fat cap on top, but it has this deep, deep flavor -- the bourbon comes through in a big way, and I really didn't use much of it. Also very good on hamburgers -- that's where the rest of that foie had gone, mixed in with chili-grind beef for burgers, a sort of dairy-free butterburger.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 16:02 (nineteen years ago)

Food blog: http://redfusion.livejournal.com
Media/junkfood blog: http://doctorpop.livejournal.com
Dull blog: http://mvaldemar.livejournal.com

I'm in Nashua, in southern NH -- the next town over, Hollis, is where I grew up and where my family still lives. I was away for thirteen years, with maybe ten visits in that time. If there is anything stranger than major culture shock within walking distance of where you spent half your life, I haven't experienced it, and it probably involves cosmic rays or subway wizards.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 16:06 (nineteen years ago)

Holy shit, seriously. We moved back to where we both grew up after 20 years away, and I'm afraid to leave the house.

I will commence to drop a knowledge bomb. (Rock Hardy), Saturday, 15 July 2006 16:10 (nineteen years ago)

Isn't it weird? Okay, 20 would be noticeably weirder. This is a town people tend to stick near, or maybe people stick near home everywhere and I've just convinced myself otherwise because so many of my friends are academics, which all but requires you to go find a job somewhere else.

I mean, I went out to dinner with my mother and her boyfriend the other day and was almost immediately hugged by a woman I didn't even slightly recognize -- who turned out to be someone with reasonable hugging rights, the mother of a girl I went to school with, who had given me a copy of Fahrenheit 451 when I graduated 6th grade. But I hadn't seen her in 15 years.

Pretty much every time I go anywhere, I have to apologize for not remembering somebody. My mother's the tax collector, so everyone knows her and they have a context by which to remember me.

At the same time, the grocery store where I used to have trouble finding Tabasco sauce now has fresh ostrich (though their tofu selection was limited to two packages of extra-firm!), everyone has wireless internet, and there's a Starbuck's down the street sharing a parking lot with the Denny's that poured hot coffee over a tumbler of ice when I asked for an iced coffee in 1994. So the familiar ... isn't.

At the same time, I never had NESN when living in New England, so being able to watch every Red Sox game on television and rerun twice ... whoa. I had right field roof seats for a May game, and I've got standing-room on the Monster for the last game of the year.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 16:22 (nineteen years ago)

At the same time, I never had NESN when living in New England, so being able to watch every Red Sox game on television and rerun twice ... whoa. I had right field roof seats for a May game, and I've got standing-room on the Monster for the last game of the year.

Okay, now you're just trying to make me cry. Bad enough that Fox bought Turner South and dumped the TBS broadcasters, but now TBS themselves are dumping the Braves starting in '08. I will probably get MLB Extra Innings starting next year.

At the same time, the grocery store where I used to have trouble finding Tabasco sauce now has fresh ostrich

Unfortunately, that hasn't happened here and I don't think it ever will. Nobody can get a toehold against Wal-Mart and the usual fast food franchises, and it's ugly to watch some brave souls try it, and sad that there are fewer and fewer braves souls each year. When Wal-Mart added Sriracha to the Asian foods section, I was happy for a minute and then just got madder. What the fuck kind of success is that?

I will commence to drop a knowledge bomb. (Rock Hardy), Saturday, 15 July 2006 16:33 (nineteen years ago)

Man, I just clicked the touchpad around looking for the reply button. It HAS been a bit.

Okay, now you're just trying to make me cry. Bad enough that Fox bought Turner South and dumped the TBS broadcasters, but now TBS themselves are dumping the Braves starting in '08. I will probably get MLB Extra Innings starting next year.

It looks worth the money if you're home for enough games -- do they have an associated On Demand service? If it makes you feel better, I pay through the nose for cable -- $60 for basic digital, and I don't have HBO because it's $26 a month (vs $10 in Indiana). It's crazy up here.

But yeah, having local baseball broadcasts ... wow. I mean, they show minor league games when the Sox have a night off, all the fluffy but awesome pre-game shows ... I don't think the novelty is going to wear off. Nor my crush on Kelly the Ball Girl.

Unfortunately, that hasn't happened here and I don't think it ever will. Nobody can get a toehold against Wal-Mart and the usual fast food franchises, and it's ugly to watch some brave souls try it, and sad that there are fewer and fewer braves souls each year. When Wal-Mart added Sriracha to the Asian foods section, I was happy for a minute and then just got madder. What the fuck kind of success is that?

It's very chain-y up here too, and the Mexican and Chinese seems to lean sharply towards the inedible or unrecognizable. There are French-Canadian restaurants -- for real! -- a couple towns over, but still.

I got spoiled by so much stuff in Bloomington, especially the butcher and Asian groceries -- no idea where I can buy pig ears here, or roosters, or sweetbreads. It keeps weirding me out that I'm in a larger, more urban area, but with fewer things available in so many categories.

OH. Speaking of which: I have to share this strangeness: 100,000 people in Nashua and NO MOVIE THEATERS. Not even a shitty dollar theater or something. They have all shut down and not yet been replaced. You have to drive 20, 30 minutes to get to a movie theater -- and many of them are nice, but man, I don't drive. I'm going to have to make some movie-lover free-time-having friends.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 17:20 (nineteen years ago)

I've had the same hometown culture shock, too, but thankfully I haven't moved back, nor do I plan to. (for a complete discussion, please to consult the numerous HASTINGS threads).


We had a movie theater in Hanover, but no fast food restaurants (not a bad thing, mind). Sadly, as college towns go, it's got to be one of the worst, because of all the ordinances against fun stuff.

gbx (skowly), Saturday, 15 July 2006 17:27 (nineteen years ago)

Like, say, record stores and a decent bar.

gbx (skowly), Saturday, 15 July 2006 17:30 (nineteen years ago)

Well, I've just spent a LOT of time at your food blog. It's addictive reading.

This intrigued me: if you don't think a sprinkle of homemade pickled garlic makes a difference in your red beans and rice, you haven't tried it.

How do you pickle garlic?

gooblar (gooblar), Saturday, 15 July 2006 17:30 (nineteen years ago)

hummingbird cake is awesome!

Forksclovetofu (Forksclovetofu), Saturday, 15 July 2006 17:33 (nineteen years ago)

100,000 people in Nashua and NO MOVIE THEATERS.

Crazy! Even in Amory, a town of 6500, we have our beloved Twin Enema.

I will commence to drop a knowledge bomb. (Rock Hardy), Saturday, 15 July 2006 17:39 (nineteen years ago)

hello tep! i am glad you are back!

geeta (geeta), Saturday, 15 July 2006 17:41 (nineteen years ago)

Tep I'm a big fan of your vinegar chicken. . . would you tell me how you do your Thai basil chicky? I have Thai basil growing in my community garden plot.

I had hoped you would move to D.C.! No chance of that now???

xpost Hi Geeta! We met at T&A wedding and I was in awe b/c you are ILX royalty.

quincie (quincie), Saturday, 15 July 2006 17:51 (nineteen years ago)

tep have you been to any of the french-canadian restaurants?

s1ocki (slutsky), Saturday, 15 July 2006 18:00 (nineteen years ago)

I was wondering what Hastings was. ... okay, I still am, I guess, but now I have a context of some kind. And everything on ILM is Rolling now.

I haven't even looked for a bar yet, because I'm just so ... much of an asshole. Well, I mean, I got into cocktails, in a big way. But real cocktails. When I make an Old-Fashioned, I don't fuck around with club soda and enough fruit to make it a weak-ass Pimm's Cup. When I make a martini -- well, I don't drink martinis often, but if I did, I wouldn't use those vermouth spritzers, I'd just use good vermouth, and if any word like "apple" or "mango" came before "tini," I would frown like a motherfucker. So outside of the cocktailian retro type bars that aren't really around me, bar drinks just aren't for me. I have a small amount of nice components in my cabinet.

Pickled garlic! I wonder if I have a recipe handy. I have some homemade green chile pickled garlic handy, but that doesn't do you much good. Essentially, you want to combine vinegar, water, and sugar -- just a touch -- until it tastes palatable. Not too vinegary or the garlic is going to be super-sharp, not too watery or it won't be pickled. I'd say two parts vinegar to one part water. Season it however you like -- definitely a pinch of salt, maybe some pepper, in my case a can of diced green chiles and a bit of Mexican oregano. Simmer it bout five minutes to get the raw taste out of the garlic -- if you want to make sure it's still crispy, I guess you can probably heat the liquid to boiling and just pour it over the garlic -- and put in a sterilized glass jar and refrigerate. Good on sandwiches, perfect with beans or greens. I use it in my collards.

Now, if you were to raise the sugar so that it was a 1:1 ratio with the liquid, you'd pretty much be making a relish -- though that's more of a gastrique, I guess maybe 2:1 with the liquid, or 3:2, in that range. Enough sugar that the liquid becomes thick and sticky and holds the solids together without solidifying in the fridge. I made a mess of cilantro-habanero relish when I had a bunch of habaneros I knew I had to keep around somehow, and I use it on hot dogs and burgers a lot.

Forks: thank you for knowing hummingbird cake! It should be a well-known classic, it's got everything in its favor that carrot cake does, except I guess maybe you're less likely to happen to have the ingredients around coincidentally.

geeta: Thank you!

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 18:00 (nineteen years ago)

It's a solid Southern staple. Folks up here don't seem to know from Chess Pie either; y'ever tried it?

Forksclovetofu (Forksclovetofu), Saturday, 15 July 2006 18:06 (nineteen years ago)

xposts everywhere!

quincie: Well, D.C. didn't go as planned, partly on account of one thing not working out and partly cause we decided instead of movin' we'd just break up. I had been hoping to check out Minibar and the Nationals, but both will have to wait for a vacation of some kind. I got family in Virginia just a little ways away.

Thai basil chicken: this is one of those things I make a bunch of ways depending on what I have around, but ultimately I like it to be simple and very very flavorful, so:

Diced/minced boneless chicken thighs

Stir-fried with {diced or sliced onion | sliced red bell peppers | diced Thai chiles | minced garlic}

Seasoned with {minced ginger | Chinese dark soy sauce | a pinch of sugar | a dash of rice vinegar or Filipino coconut vinegar if it's handy | Thai fish sauce}

With some kind of heavy spice -- sriracha, if there are no Thai chiles involved. I've tried the new Tabasco Sweet and Spicy and am deeply disappointed in it -- apparently it's the first product since the new owners took over.

Combined with handfuls of Thai basil {and/or fresh mint | sweet basil | holy basil, I think} in the last thirty seconds of cooking

The holy basil needs a note: I got addicted to this stuff this guy sold at the farmer's market that he called holy basil and that the Tibetan monks told him was holy basil but that bore no resemblance in appearance or taste to what the internet says is holy basil. It is not good in this recipe, but real holy basil supposedly is. This stuff, whatever it was, smelled like a combination of flowers and sex and hotel soap and bubblegum -- sounds fucking holy to me -- and I mostly used it to make this funky ice cream.

slocki: No :/ I need to find someone who a) doesn't mind trying new places, b) has free time, and c) can be talked into trying poutine reasonably sober, since they have to drive. There's one place that does poutine with anything in the kitchen, whatever you ask for. Salmon pie's big too.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 18:08 (nineteen years ago)

Oh hell, I know chess pie. For me it's "I want pecan pie and don't have pecans" pie. Chess pie, buttermilk pie, sweet cream pie -- I mighta been born in Boston, but I've made up for it.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 18:09 (nineteen years ago)

i've always been a bit of a poutine purist--although i'm still meaning to check out the foie gras pout at au pied du cochon!

s1ocki (slutsky), Saturday, 15 July 2006 18:09 (nineteen years ago)

I've been making -- wait, was this ... post-ILE, ish? It might've been. Um, this was for some holiday, I was being a smartass, and on the menu I put "potatoes quebecois": crispy roasted baby potatoes, cheese curds, and strong demiglace.

It was amazing. I don't even remember what else I served, because it paled in comparison. I wound up making slight variations of the p.q. for a long time -- adding super-crispy bacon, or hot sauce, or blending the demiglace with a little hot sauce, cream, and pecans, which is one of my standard sauces for beef/pork/fish. Man, I want some right now, but I haven't got any demiglace.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 18:15 (nineteen years ago)

Can I just hire you to be my cook? (Mind, I can only pay you in shed hair.)

Ned Raggett (Ned), Saturday, 15 July 2006 18:52 (nineteen years ago)

Man, my cats pay me in that! And all I have to do is pour things in bowls for them and once in a while give them chicken livers.

Pay me in sushi, and at least there's a starting point for negotiations.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 18:58 (nineteen years ago)

Tep - glad to meet you. Your blog looks like a fun place for me to get some kitchen ideas. I'm relatively new to wide-open experimentation in the kitchen, mostly b/c I don't typically have a whole lot around due to a stupid student schedule.

BUT - my wedding last year delivered a bounty of pro-quality cooking utensils, and I am slowly but surely adding to my repetoire of foods.

Currently doing (as I type, no less) - a roasted limeaide, based on your recipe above with one large difference (hmmm).

Within the last week, I did a mint/ginger/soy/honey chicken kabob with roasted red peppers and red onions. It was really nice and subtle, and the marinade had a totally different and interesting version of sweet mint than the typical sugar/mint combo - I actually tried a honey/mint mint julep later that night and it went perfectly with the Wild Turkey 101 that I have...I suspect a sweeter bourbon like Maker's would be too sweet for something like this.

Anyway, I'll let you know how the limeaide turns out, and its good to meet you. I look forward to learning a bunch and hopefully sharing a thing or two, too.

BTW - you should TOTALLY make it to Minibar when you get a chance. It is flat-fucking amazing, and for a person who experiments in the kitchen, it is truly a mind-blowing experience.

Big Loud Ape Mountain (Big Loud Mountain Ape), Saturday, 15 July 2006 19:05 (nineteen years ago)

Pay me in sushi, and at least there's a starting point for negotiations.

There's a massive Japanese ex-pat population around here and at least four good sushi spots within two blocks. Ergo, you have to come over. (Whether or not I'll give you the money for these places is another matter.)

Ned Raggett (Ned), Saturday, 15 July 2006 19:12 (nineteen years ago)

How was the honey in the julep? I could go on and on about honey. I reckon I probably will at some point. The thing I'm working on right now (I write, the kitchen is just a thing I do), honey and beekeeping are part of the plot, which led to a lot of reading about honey, and sampling things, and ... I'm a convert. The variety of honey out there blows me away. Corbezzolo honey has become my favorite edible thing -- I don't know if there's even a close second.

Roasted limeade! I'm curious about it. Limes have a sort of ... tougher rind, I think, but since you're straining it, that probably won't matter if you wind up with bits that don't puree or something. I have enough limes I could try it myself if yours comes out nicely.

Minibar is one of those restaurants that is on my ... wishlist, I guess you'd say. Minibar, Babbo in New York, Alinea and Moto in Chicago (very Minibar-like), El Bulli in Spain, and St John in London. That list isn't gonna diminish any time soon, but you know. They're places I keep an eye on. And most of them are perfect examples of what appeals to me most about restaurants, as a customer: they can provide me with a meal I cannot prepare at home, not for reasons of unattainable skill but because of the tools involved and the disproportionate amount of work it would take for one serving.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 19:21 (nineteen years ago)

oh man el bulli. want to go so bad.

s1ocki (slutsky), Saturday, 15 July 2006 19:23 (nineteen years ago)

Yeah, don't even get me started. Did you see the Decoding Ferran Adria special? It aired up there long before it ran on the Travel Channel here, I think.

The nice thing about Adria is that -- and I find this is true of Grant at Alinea, too -- he's so enthusiastic about food that you can get ideas from him that you can use without needing to have his kitchen and his laboratory. Some of it's just about flavor combinations or textures. Cantu at Moto, I don't usually respond that way -- I love what he's doing, and he does this thing with carbonating fruit (fizzing grapes!) that I think will catch on commercially, but rarely does he do something that makes me think about how I'll apply it to my kitchen because it's just so tool-dependent.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 19:27 (nineteen years ago)

Well, the limeaide turned out a bit more bitter than I expected - probably has to do with the limes. I'll see what the final verdict is once I chill it and put it on ice. Probably could use some more sugar (or honey!).

One thing that I am going to do is make a tequila/lime chicken for dinner tonight or tomorrow. Take the strained bits, mix in some tequila, and let the chicken marinate in it for about an hour before grilling. I'll keep you posted on that one as well.

GQ did an interesting article on the "new" Chicago restaurant scene, and Alinea and Moto were both featured (I think). They both sounded very similar to Minibar in their experimentalism, but WAY beyond anything traditional at all - LASERS? Vanilla infused GLASSES?

Anyway, cheers, and I'll keep you updated. Failing anything else productive today, I've made a new friend to rap with about cooking. Awesome!

Big Loud Ape Mountain (Big Loud Mountain Ape), Saturday, 15 July 2006 19:40 (nineteen years ago)

hi tep! I hope you continue hanging out on ile! I'm sorry you won't be at gencon this year (I presume) but have fun at your new old locale.

I tried doing a rinds and all limeade once and it was insanely undrinkably bitter. I think I stewed it though. Try diluting it, I find that even making limeade from concentrate will get you bitter limeade if there is not enough water!

teeny (teeny), Saturday, 15 July 2006 19:51 (nineteen years ago)

Aha, yes. Cantu -- @ Moto -- is insane. He's like those physicists who are half-artist -- he's clearly as much tinkerer as chef, and in some other century would have wound up inventing an automated page-turner and galvanic spectacles while holding down a straight job as the town baker.

Achatz is somewhere in between. Or maybe seems it because the eGullet forums had a long in-depth look at his restaurant while he was organizing it, so I've heard him talk about food more than Cantu (although I got the idea for umeboshi-cured bacon from a post of Cantu's). I'm pretty sure he still kicks back with a hot dog or a bag of chips pretty often.

The bitterness in the limeade would probably be less noticeable in a mixed drink of some kind, I'd bet, but I don't know -- is it a grapefruity sort of bitterness?

xpost; helllooo, teeny! Yeah, no GenCon. I even have my ticket! But no way to be there or to afford doing anything while there. It's a shame, I wish I'd made a point to get together with you last year.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 19:54 (nineteen years ago)

Re: sweetening the limeaide - I had thought just the same thing. Limes are a much, much more intensly flavored fruit than lemons. This one seems to be alright. The bitternes seems to be a rind-related phenomena. The juice itself was pretty damn sweet and tangy pre-puree. I only did one and a half lime rinds in the mix, so its not too bitter. Next time, I'll probably only do one half a rind. The bitterness is a nice touch, I think, especially if you plan on mixing it with liquor.

Alright, I got something for the thread - whats up with ribs? What are y'all's (plural possessive) preferred ways to prepare them? Pork v. beef? Dry v. wet? Charcoal v. wood?

Big Loud Ape Mountain (Big Loud Mountain Ape), Saturday, 15 July 2006 19:56 (nineteen years ago)

Oh gosh.

Okay:

Beef ribs are very underrated. Beef short ribs can be pretty damn good.

I used to love boneless country ribs, but now I only buy them to cook in some non-rib-like way: grinding up the meat for some damn thing, or stewing them, that sort of thing.

At an actual barbecue joint -- smoke, fire, pit -- I tend to prefer pork because of the sweetness and the generally more marbled fat. Cooked dry or finished with sauce, and sauced afterwards. I understand the appeal of dry, unsauced ribs, but I'm not that sort of purist -- I like some bite, some tang, something to offset that sweetness and unavoidable grease.

Venison ribs are great. Buffalo ribs are good but not worth the mark-up buffalo usually gets -- it's nice to get a buffalo cut with fat on it for once, though, because the positioning of it as The Lean Mammal has dried out a few too many meals.

Curing pork ribs can be nice, too, because they come out ham-ish, but not like ham since that's not the cut one would usually use for ham. Cured beef ribs, I'm not as crazy about -- they sort of imply the possibility of an interesting combination of "corned beef" and "well-marbled beefy beef," but I think ribeye would be the better cut to bring that out.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 20:05 (nineteen years ago)

Well, as it seems that you have some level of experience -

I have procured (a free give away) a small (~50 lb of meat) smoker. I have not used it yet, as I am currently studying for the bar exam. But, once that's done, I plan on breaking the thing in proper. I was thinking of doing two things -

One - smoking the ribs instead of charcoaling them. Is this practical for eating purposes?

Two - I am DYING to make some Andouille of my own. Any tips/thoughts/places to look? You SAID you call NOLA home...

Big Loud Ape Mountain (Big Loud Mountain Ape), Saturday, 15 July 2006 20:15 (nineteen years ago)

hahaha, Tep = Gandalf. Master of arcane knowledge, goes away for a while, comes back and is swarmed by halflings. (NOTE: there is no putdown implied anywhere in this post! It's just funny.)

I will commence to drop a knowledge bomb. (Rock Hardy), Saturday, 15 July 2006 20:18 (nineteen years ago)

Well, true, but if you haven't smelled people cooking, you don't have the immediate association. Hopefully. Don't get me wrong, I'll try just about anything.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 21:32 (nineteen years ago)

I am currently in South Pasadena, CA

Did I know this? Why don't you post more on the LA CA USA thread? You hurt me in my heart etc.

if you haven't smelled people cooking

Pardon, my cannibalism is underdone.

A lot of this talk is interesting because I've realized that I don't cook meat that much (and kinda don't want to, not because I won't eat it, perish the thought, but because I think I want to learn more dishes that I could cook for literally anyone, except vegophobes, I guess).

Ned Raggett (Ned), Saturday, 15 July 2006 21:33 (nineteen years ago)

Meat is nature's potato.

I wind up going through phases, but I do keep coming back to meat, and maybe in part because my influences are meat-centric -- and because I've gotten so fascinated with "offal," with ordering pig stomach at Chinese joints and eating the shrimp heads off other peoples' plates when it's clear they aren't going to bother. Duck heart on a biscuit, cured lamb tongue, pig ears braised and baked and dipped in hot sauce. Meat's got more parts to it -- so playing around with citrus means more like finding the unusual species, not the unusual parts of the fruit you're already familiar with.

But I've been cooking a lot of okra lately, and there was a while where I was eating yucca every day, and I'm big on chicory right now.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 21:38 (nineteen years ago)

My Bahian first husband used to make an incredible cake out of grated yucca (mandioca), grated coconut, sugar and eggs. No flour. Maybe vanilla, I can't remember. It was a moist, heavy brick of love.

The Minas Brazilians here on the Vineyard (whose cuisine is not as spicy as the Bahian but makes use of lots of pig parts—you'd love it) put farofa—toasted mandioca starch—on everything, as a gritty starchy topping. At first I thought huh? But then it grew on me.

Beth Parker (Beth Parker), Saturday, 15 July 2006 21:51 (nineteen years ago)

I've wanted to try farofa! Haven't found it, though. But I also haven't looked since moving to New England, so I should -- Fall River and Providence have large Portuguese populations, I had wondered at one point if they might therefore also have a Brazilian population or if that logic doesn't follow.

I make feijoada a lot when I have enough pig parts for it, but I've never had the farofa to serve with it.

Tep (ktepi), Saturday, 15 July 2006 22:00 (nineteen years ago)

The main reason, Ned, is that I have to limit my posting to a few threads b/c of bar study. I am not avoiding the CA threads at all. In fact, I'll go pop over right now.

Big Loud Ape Mountain (Big Loud Mountain Ape), Saturday, 15 July 2006 22:01 (nineteen years ago)

Heheh, fear not, I tease. :-) But I am thinking about a FAP for next Saturday, you see. Join us if you can!

Ned Raggett (Ned), Saturday, 15 July 2006 22:12 (nineteen years ago)

Ce n'est possible. The bar exam is on the 25/26/27 and I will officially be in a media and socializing less hole from tomorrow evening on.

Next time, perhaps.

Big Loud Ape Mountain (Big Loud Mountain Ape), Saturday, 15 July 2006 22:13 (nineteen years ago)

Ah! Most understandable -- then best of luck for that and we shall toast you on your success afterwards.

Ned Raggett (Ned), Saturday, 15 July 2006 22:14 (nineteen years ago)

I appreciate the wishes, Ned. I look forward to rejoining society as soon as possible.

Big Loud Ape Mountain (Big Loud Mountain Ape), Saturday, 15 July 2006 22:20 (nineteen years ago)

hey tep, there's this guy on here named A Nairn that you might get a kick out of, should you ever encounter him

kingfish cyclopean ice cream (kingfish 2.0), Saturday, 15 July 2006 23:59 (nineteen years ago)

oh man el bulli. want to go so bad.

my friend jacky just went to el bulli for lunch. $600 for 2 people. her last name rhymes with chan, so i think they were expecting the moviestar to show up. but anyhow, she said it was amazing.

phil-two (phil-two), Sunday, 16 July 2006 00:25 (nineteen years ago)

Tep, maybe I can send you some farofa. I'll do some sleuthing.

Beth Parker (Beth Parker), Sunday, 16 July 2006 01:02 (nineteen years ago)

It's possible that they make it up fresh and the very idea of shipping it would be anathema. I'll find out.

Beth Parker (Beth Parker), Sunday, 16 July 2006 01:03 (nineteen years ago)

why arent you supposed to put tomatoes in the refrigerator?

phil-two (phil-two), Sunday, 16 July 2006 01:04 (nineteen years ago)

Because it turns them into POISON.

Ned Raggett (Ned), Sunday, 16 July 2006 01:10 (nineteen years ago)

really?

phil-two (phil-two), Sunday, 16 July 2006 01:13 (nineteen years ago)

They tend to lose a lot of their flavor when refrigerated.

It's so nice to see Tep posting again! I just checked out the food blog, it is amazing.

GILLY'S BAGG'EAR VANCE OF COUPARI (Ex Leon), Sunday, 16 July 2006 01:23 (nineteen years ago)

I remember A Nairn! I haven't been gone that long. If you tell me I should "go check out what Momus thought of Kill Bill," I will box your ears.

Tomatoes in the fridge turn all mealy, if they're good fresh tomatoes. I think it has to do with the sugars. The dense-ish tomatoes you get at the supermarket, not the vine-ripened ones but the others, those won't really be affected -- so if you really want a cold tomato and don't mind those, go for it. But otherwise I never refrigerate tomatoes or citrus. (In the case of citrus, it's just because it's easier to juice warmer citrus and my fridge is cold enough that I don't want to get that "oh man cold teeth!" thing going on when I eat an orange.)

I've got a tomato plant on my deck right now, but every time it starts to thrive, we get hit with a bunch of rain and it damn near washes away. (Right now my living situation is in flux. I may stay here with the deck and let my brother's ex move in, or I may relocate to the apartment she's living in, and be in walking distance of farmstands. It's all defined by vegetal proximity somehow.)

Tep (ktepi), Sunday, 16 July 2006 08:18 (nineteen years ago)

I still really want a burger. I have no beef in the house but those steak tips. (Though I have a borrowed meat grinder, but ...)

I was just trying to remember how long it's been since I was reading ILE regularly, and it must be since 2004, because when I met teeny at GenCon in August 2004 I hadn't been reading. Since I was only posting on ILE since late 2002, I have been not-reading for as long as I was reading uninterrupted, which is weird. You realize most of the novels I've written, I've written since starting on ILE? Well no, there's no reason you would realize that, but still. I'm on the ninth or tenth now, I forget which.

Um, what else. I fell asleep prematurely last night reading All the Pretty Horses (not the book's fault, I'm amazed by it so far) and so I'm awake prematurely today feeling disconcerteder than usual. Okay, job stuff: I have parleyed ten-ish? years of college into being an "independent scholar," which is my compromise between writing fiction full time (good) and being an actual academic (bad): I write encyclopedia entries and chapters of high school textbooks, and will probably do similar things along those lines (readers' guides and so on). I don't mind the work, I just need to pick up more of it because I'm completely broke. I'm doing everything I can to avoid overly respectable work -- ties and offices and things like that, that would drive me batshit.

Tep (ktepi), Sunday, 16 July 2006 08:44 (nineteen years ago)

awesome DIY sushi tep - i live in the middle of nowhere and the sashimi habit i picked up in london can only be sated with some yellow fin tuna steak, raw ginger and a little soy. it's rudimentary but it hits the spot. will try your version of it. thanks a lot.

beeble (beeble), Sunday, 16 July 2006 09:13 (nineteen years ago)

Oh sure. I need to play with it a lot more -- I had high hopes for the pomegranate molasses, which just didn't pan out very well, but I love the grapefruit. My technique needs a lot of practice too -- it wasn't pretty sushi. Now that I live somewhere with cheaper seafood, I figure I'll get a small piece of tuna every time I grocery shop, just enough for a meal's worth of sushi.

I've also decided I have to try uni the next time I go to this nice sushi place that my one friend I kept in touch with from high school has taken me to before, which I figure I'll do with the next check that comes in.

Tep (ktepi), Sunday, 16 July 2006 09:18 (nineteen years ago)

have you thought about being a food critic? you're a good writer.

geeta (geeta), Monday, 17 July 2006 02:54 (nineteen years ago)

i do remember dragging you back to discuss the Passion of the Christ.

what were the names of the games you've written?

kingfish cyclopean ice cream (kingfish 2.0), Monday, 17 July 2006 03:30 (nineteen years ago)

geeta: Thank you :) Food writing's not for me, I don't think. From what I understand, it's a densely populated field with too many people willing to work cheap and not enough people wanting to buy things that're more than food porn. I don't have the background for anything journalistic, and would go off on so many digressions in reviewing a new Pan-Asian bistro that an editor would probably either hate me or red-pen me to the point that most of what I'd put in was made irrelevant.

I like the idea in theory, but basically I make up for it by working disproportionately thoughtful descriptions of food into my fiction.

Kingfish: Oh yeah, I've been back sporadically (that would be pretty dope of us). The Passion, Jesus Christ what a mess.

I wrote:
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/lasttycoon/sscover2e.jpg

And there was another game in the works that never came around because the publisher essentially stopped publishing, and a third that I stopped working on because the labor was exceeding the projected return by too wide a margin.

Tep (ktepi), Monday, 17 July 2006 03:34 (nineteen years ago)

oh yeah, then you might not have seen this yet

kingfish cyclopean ice cream (kingfish 2.0), Monday, 17 July 2006 03:41 (nineteen years ago)

Oh geez! I think Trayce mentioned it. It's been hard enough holding off on buying a DS, with the new Super Mario game (I don't buy consoles or I wouldn't get any work done; just portables). Ahhh geez.

Tep (ktepi), Monday, 17 July 2006 03:53 (nineteen years ago)

welcome to my domain

kingfish cyclopean ice cream (kingfish 2.0), Monday, 17 July 2006 06:56 (nineteen years ago)

Hi Tep!

Archel (Archel), Monday, 17 July 2006 07:38 (nineteen years ago)

Hello Archel! How is everything?

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/lasttycoon/rox0r.jpg

l-r: fork stolen from T.G.I. Friday's, me, Pop Rocks, Pop Rocks bacon, diet Moxie.

The bacon isn't burnt, though it looks it (out of the photo too): the cure had too much sugar in it, and the cooked-off liquid burned in the pan. All in all: a little salty, and a little tough (too soon to know if that's the fault of the batch or this cut of meat for this application), and very very little perceptible Pop Rocks flavor. So we haven't so much moved closer to Pop Rocks bacon, just verified that you can substitute Pop Rocks for its constituent parts, but it sounds cooler to say, yeah, I made bacon with Pop Rocks.

The trick with the real actual Pop Rocks bacon -- bacon you pop in your mouth, and it pops, without having any Cantu/Achatz/Adria technology available -- will be to heat the Pop Rocks very quickly so they'll adhere to the crispy bacon, without compromising the integrity of ... uh, the candy shell that holds the fizzy stuff in? I have only a vague idea of the Pop Rocks anatomy.

Also excellent: cherry shrub. Don't remember if I mentioned it. Drink concentrate, Colonial-era, still around in the South; fruit (cherries, here) steeped in vinegar a couple weeks, combined with sugar, diluted with still or sparkling water (and/or booze). Better vinegar would yield better results, but this is awfully good and I'm going to make some tomato and jalapeno shrubs later.

Tep (ktepi), Monday, 17 July 2006 13:37 (nineteen years ago)

Hm, I reuploaded the image to fix it a bit and it looks all odd now. Well, cheap camera phone, you grok the idea.

Tep (ktepi), Monday, 17 July 2006 13:44 (nineteen years ago)

Wow, all the foodness is making my head spin.

Hi Tep! glad to see you're doing well. I won't tell you about the things I eat b/c it would make you cry.

Ms. Misery TX (MissMiseryTX), Monday, 17 July 2006 13:48 (nineteen years ago)

Raw onions?

Habanero poppers?

Fire?

Good Mexican would be enough to make me cry. There's a great place in Bloomington run by a Mexican family, which puts me in the odd position of missing Indiana for its Mexican food.

Hi Sam :) Likewise!

Tep (ktepi), Monday, 17 July 2006 13:52 (nineteen years ago)

haha, no I meant make you cry as in what crap I eat!

Have had good mexican lately. But no culinary feats at home.

Ms. Misery TX (MissMiseryTX), Monday, 17 July 2006 13:55 (nineteen years ago)

Oh, I had a Drake's cherry pie for breakfast (along with that bacon and iced coffee), I'm not very food-normative. Except about hot dogs, maybe. And barbecue, ish.

Tep (ktepi), Monday, 17 July 2006 13:58 (nineteen years ago)

Mm vinegar. I am just waiting for the weird pregnancy cravings to kick in but so far I just want to eat lots of what I already love. Alas, don't think bacon pop rocks will be on the menu either way...

Archel (Archel), Monday, 17 July 2006 14:00 (nineteen years ago)

I don't necessarily recommend them, they were just in the interest of science. I'll try the other two bacons with lunch and we'll see how they do.

You're pregnant! Congratulations! I can't wait for ILX: The Next Generation, when they let the Klingons start posting.

Tep (ktepi), Monday, 17 July 2006 14:04 (nineteen years ago)

Hi Tep!

I like how this thread is promoting conversation among lots of different ILXors.

jaymc (jaymc), Monday, 17 July 2006 14:06 (nineteen years ago)

Hi jaymc! Don't all threads do that?

Tep (ktepi), Monday, 17 July 2006 14:10 (nineteen years ago)

Not lately. Very cliqueish.

I will commence to drop a knowledge bomb. (Rock Hardy), Monday, 17 July 2006 14:11 (nineteen years ago)

tep you old blaggard
good to see you roll back in
pimpin like a pimp

Haikunym (Haikunym), Monday, 17 July 2006 14:19 (nineteen years ago)

Huh. Well, to be fair, I've posted many more times in this thread than others, though I've tried to look around at the others too. Surely meerkats and bathing suits are universal.

Hi Haikunym ... nim!
(Nim is not a word, damn it.)
Hi cuckoo haiku.

Tep (ktepi), Monday, 17 July 2006 14:25 (nineteen years ago)

Haha, I wondered if you'd ever wander back in Tep :) And Kingfish is right, you gotta come over into ILG =) Though you are also right in avoiding the DS - it will suck time out of your life faster than a $5 hooker and an um, something happens.

Trayce (trayce), Monday, 17 July 2006 21:30 (nineteen years ago)

I looked around when I happybirthdayed the birthday gals the other day, and things seemed sane, with everyone-ish still around, so. With everything else in such annoying flux right now I figured it'd be good to do a little reconnection.

The next time I resume playing the GBA -- I go through phases -- I'm going to check out ILG. My power cord's being all weird and it's not fully recharging anymore, so if it dies I'll wind up buying a DS and OHNOetc. But mostly, honest to God, I'm happy enough playing the same games I played 20 years ago (plus Pokemon).

Tep (ktepi), Monday, 17 July 2006 22:23 (nineteen years ago)

Not lately. Very cliqueish.

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I liked how BLAM and Ned had a little back-and-forth up there, which doesn't often happen because BLAM often sticks to the D.C. thread. You know, just as a for-instance.

jaymc (jaymc), Monday, 17 July 2006 22:26 (nineteen years ago)

go back to chicago, you!

gbx (skowly), Monday, 17 July 2006 22:36 (nineteen years ago)

oh man el bulli. want to go so bad.

hey, here are my friends photos from meal at el bulli. so funny looking, the food

http://www.flickr.com/photos/chezpim/sets/307952/

phil-two (phil-two), Thursday, 20 July 2006 16:49 (nineteen years ago)

Oh, you know Pim! Or dining companions of Pim. Cool!

The pea ravioli always looks so gorgeous. And the apple caviar!

Tep (ktepi), Thursday, 20 July 2006 16:57 (nineteen years ago)

oh wait, that wasn't from my friend's meal. he sent me someone else's link... oh well. but still. looks so fun! and so expensive....

phil-two (phil-two), Thursday, 20 July 2006 17:16 (nineteen years ago)

Just when I get back, y'all break ILX!

Tep (ktepi), Tuesday, 25 July 2006 15:52 (nineteen years ago)


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