have you ever visited the Lebanon?

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Has anyone ever been to the Lebanon? I'm developing a yen to go there, and I'd be interested in hearing your opinions on the place. My interest has mainly been picqued by those "Lebanon, blimey" articles Robert Fisk sometimes writes. There was a great one late last year where he just gave a long list of names and telephone numbers of people he knows who will show you fascinating things in whatever town they live in.

The Lebanese Ministry of Tourism ( http://www.lebanon-tourism.gov.lb/ , copy and paste as I can't be arsed doing the HTML) glosses over the country's colourful history, but it does touch on it in passing. Beirut (or Beyrouth, the site is naturally in French) is "LA VILLE QUI REFUSE DE DISPARAITRE".

plucky old Lebanon. apparently the food is very nice.

DV, Thursday, 7 February 2002 01:00 (twenty-three years ago)

Right board this time.

Has anyone ever served in an army that invaded the Lebanon?

DV, Thursday, 7 February 2002 01:00 (twenty-three years ago)

Well, my dad was in the US Navy, but he wasn't stationed there in the early eighties. Then again, submarines are shit on land.

Ned Raggett, Thursday, 7 February 2002 01:00 (twenty-three years ago)

I wonder if Human League has ever visited Lebanon.

Tadeusz Suchodolski, Thursday, 7 February 2002 01:00 (twenty-three years ago)

two years pass...
the food was very nice.

DV (dirtyvicar), Wednesday, 11 February 2004 21:50 (twenty-one years ago)

My parents went on their honeymoon (way back when). Said it was so so gorgeous.

Jeanne Fury (Jeanne Fury), Wednesday, 11 February 2004 21:57 (twenty-one years ago)

did they go to the Hotel Palmyra? I bet it still has the same people working in it.

DV (dirtyvicar), Wednesday, 11 February 2004 22:08 (twenty-one years ago)

oh, i was in lebanon for a couple of weeks in 2000. actually i was in beirut during the bush/gore/florida thing. i really liked it. beirut was a pretty cosmopolitan city, well except for the bombed out parts and the refugee camps. oh theres a couple of gay bars too. baalbek was neat. big roman temple complex, except its in the city thats the hezbollah base. phoenician ruins along the coast. good food. hot guys. nice weather. good wine. tyre, sidon, etc. hitchhiking is easy. people speak english and french too. oh and this funny castle that some kooky guy built for his high school sweetheart and he put a bunch of audio animatronics inside.

phil-two (phil-two), Wednesday, 11 February 2004 22:54 (twenty-one years ago)

baalbek was neat. big roman temple complex, except its in the city thats the hezbollah base.

that's part of the attraction of the town - drinking a sundowner while staring at a poster of the Ayatollah.

hitchhiking is easy.

given how cheap cross country buses are we never tried this.

oh and this funny castle that some kooky guy built for his high school sweetheart and he put a bunch of audio animatronics inside.

that's Musa Castle! I really wanted to visit but never got round to it. bah.

DV (dirtyvicar), Wednesday, 11 February 2004 23:22 (twenty-one years ago)

My wife is half-Lebanese and has been many times. The food is EXCELLENT! I'd love to go, although it's not really the most convenient time to go these days.

Alex in NYC (vassifer), Wednesday, 11 February 2004 23:25 (twenty-one years ago)

theres always next time. it was a lot of fun. i got picked up by this really nice family and they drove me around for three days showing me sights and stuff. one night they wanted to take me out to dinner and they asked what i wanted and i said "i dunno. chicken or felafel or something" and they go "felafel? thats peasant food! we're taking you to burger king!". and then they got all dressed up and we went for whoppers and chicken tenders.

where did you stay in beirut? i ended up in some guesthouse above a car wash with this volkswagen hanging off the roof.

phil-two (phil-two), Wednesday, 11 February 2004 23:28 (twenty-one years ago)

it hasnt been 'convenient' to go to lebanon for like 25 years. might as well go anyways.

phil-two (phil-two), Wednesday, 11 February 2004 23:30 (twenty-one years ago)

Phil-two - either you have said your Burger King story before or it is the generic Lebanon tourist story (although it didn't happen to us; we did quite badly on the make-new-friends front because we are unfriendly).

In Beirut we stayed in these student apartments near the American University. It was cheap and nice enough and recommendable for those on a budget. I will try and remember its name. We used to stroll into Hamra and go for a nightcap in the Cafe Modca, which has since closed down.

Apart from the Hotel Palmyra (which is the best hotel in the world) we didn't stay anywhere outside Beirut.

DV (dirtyvicar), Wednesday, 11 February 2004 23:32 (twenty-one years ago)

My wife is half-Lebanese and has been many times. The food is EXCELLENT! I'd love to go, although it's not really the most convenient time to go these days.

oh just go! the war ended 16 years ago, the country is entirely safe to visit. You will have a great time.

DV (dirtyvicar), Wednesday, 11 February 2004 23:33 (twenty-one years ago)

oh yeah i posted that story on ilx awhile ago. did you go to any of the clubs in jumeira ? there was that neat one with the retractable roof, but they played eurotrance the night i was there

phil-two (phil-two), Wednesday, 11 February 2004 23:37 (twenty-one years ago)

oh wait maybe its jouniah, not jumeira

phil-two (phil-two), Wednesday, 11 February 2004 23:42 (twenty-one years ago)

There are clubs in Jounieh, and also in some bit of East Beirut whose name escapes me. We never got to them, anyway. we were doing a lot of getting up early to go on daytrips. And we thought "Hey, we've got clubs of our own in Dublin and we never go to those, so why go to ones here?".

I liked the sound of the one that was built in a former massacare site where the seats are all coffins. BO18 or something like that.

DV (dirtyvicar), Wednesday, 11 February 2004 23:43 (twenty-one years ago)

why is there a definite article in this thread title?

anthony kyle monday (akmonday), Thursday, 12 February 2004 00:26 (twenty-one years ago)

because Lebanon is often called The Lebanon. These days I would just call it Lebanon, but back then I felt the article as required.

DV (dirtyvicar), Thursday, 12 February 2004 00:44 (twenty-one years ago)

oh just go! the war ended 16 years ago, the country is entirely safe to visit. You will have a great time.

DV, I think this has to do more with the fact that Alex and his wife are about to bring a fire honourer into the world in two months.

Ned Raggett (Ned), Thursday, 12 February 2004 01:20 (twenty-one years ago)

ooooh.

DV (dirtyvicar), Thursday, 12 February 2004 12:32 (twenty-one years ago)

I've been wanting to go for years now, what with the grandma was from there visit my ancestral roots kinda thing. Lebanese food is one of my favoritest things in the entire world. My aunt Gene makes the best baklava that has ever graced the mouths of men.

nickalicious (nickalicious), Thursday, 12 February 2004 14:12 (twenty-one years ago)

because Lebanon is often called The Lebanon.

Yeah! Just ask the Human League!

Alex in NYC (vassifer), Thursday, 12 February 2004 14:46 (twenty-one years ago)

two years pass...
Off to Beirut on wednesday. Can anyone recommend bars/clubs currently à la mode?

Le Baaderonixx de Benedict Canyon (baaderonixx), Monday, 10 April 2006 09:26 (nineteen years ago)

I didn't go to the clubs when I was there. I think they are all in Acharifeyeh. BO18 sounded entertaining. I think all the trendy bar/restaurants are in Centreville, but I could be wrong.

If you want to be old school, you should go to Hamra in West Beirut and see if Café de Paris is still open. Centreville has sucked a lot of the life out of Hamra, so it may be gone, but I recommend looking for it.

Walimat is very nice restaurant in Hamra. You would also be a fool not to relax at a café/restaurant/bar combo on the Corniche some evening.

DV (dirtyvicar), Monday, 10 April 2006 10:55 (nineteen years ago)

You should also see who has the most posters up in Hamra: Hezbollah or Amal.

DV (dirtyvicar), Monday, 10 April 2006 11:03 (nineteen years ago)

Try and find the café in Centreville that looks over some huge Roman archaeological site.

If you spend any time at all in Lebanon, I really really recommend Baalbek. The ruins there are perhaps the most impressive things I have ever seen.

DV (dirtyvicar), Monday, 10 April 2006 11:11 (nineteen years ago)

Check!

Le Baaderonixx de Benedict Canyon (baaderonixx), Monday, 10 April 2006 11:46 (nineteen years ago)

hope htis thread is still aorund in 2 years when i plan to go.

ambrose (ambrose), Monday, 10 April 2006 11:50 (nineteen years ago)

two weeks pass...
OK I'm back. I stayed at the Hotel Palmyra in Baalbeck and DV was right. It just might be the best hotel in the world...

Le Baaderonixx de Benedict Canyon (baaderonixx), Thursday, 27 April 2006 12:33 (nineteen years ago)

*envy*

Rockist_Scientist (RSLaRue), Thursday, 27 April 2006 12:37 (nineteen years ago)

Rock on. Did Nicole show you around the ruins and then show up in the hotel to make your dinner and suchlike?

Did you go to any clubs in Beirut?

Incidentally, did any Lebanese people you talked to insist that you go to the Jeita Grotto caves? We went there eventually to shut them up.

DV (dirtyvicar), Thursday, 27 April 2006 16:14 (nineteen years ago)

oh oh and did you go to that kooky castle with the audio-animatronics??

phil-two (phil-two), Thursday, 27 April 2006 16:55 (nineteen years ago)

NO! We really wanted to, but various things conspired against us. How did you get there? Does it really have an animatronic model of the guy as a boy being spanked by the teacher who said he would never be rich enough to own his own castle?

DV (dirtyvicar), Thursday, 27 April 2006 20:42 (nineteen years ago)

well, i took a bus to the beiteddine palace, then on the way back, i started hitchhiking, and the first car that stopped said "are you going to the castle?" and i said "well, sure, why not.". i hadn't even heard of it. but boy was it worth it.

but YES! it does really have an animatronic model of the guy as a boy being spanked by the teacher who said he would never be rich enough to own his own castle! then i got a picture taken with the kooky old man.

it's worth a return trip to lebanon, i'd say. not really, but if you're in the area again.

phil-two (phil-two), Thursday, 27 April 2006 22:18 (nineteen years ago)

In Beirut, we did check out a few places... We went to BO18 but turned around when we saw the 20 USD cover charge. Anyway, I got to see the hydraulic roof, so that was sufficient. We checked most of the spots on rue Monot and a couple of places in Achrafyieh. A place called Element was particularly nice (although it had a lame indie-rock night the time we went). All in all, the places I loved best were the arabic bars/clubs. I'd definitely recommend the Shah Lounge on rue Monot, which perfectly epitomized the whole habibi-dancing-on-tables cliché.

Jeita was much mentionned but we ran out of time so had to skip it. Same thing for the Casino du Liban, which I really wanted to check out.

Le Baaderonixx de Benedict Canyon (baaderonixx), Friday, 28 April 2006 07:24 (nineteen years ago)

then i got a picture taken with the kooky old man.

was that yer man who owned the castle? rock.

There is meant to be some wax museum in the nearby village where some guy has taken it upon himself to recreate gruesome scenes from Lebanon's history (particularly focussing on bizarre events that took place up there in the Chouf), did you see that?

Were either of you in the Byblos Fishing Club restaurant? Is Pepe The Pirate still alive?

DV (dirtyvicar), Friday, 28 April 2006 07:32 (nineteen years ago)

I'd definitely recommend the Shah Lounge on rue Monot, which perfectly epitomized the whole habibi-dancing-on-tables cliché.

everywhere I went was much more sedate.

DV (dirtyvicar), Friday, 28 April 2006 07:33 (nineteen years ago)

I did go to Pepe's Fishing Club! Pepe was unfort nowhere to be seen, but he's still alive, in his 90's I think. The cover of the menus said "A trip to Lebanon without a visit to Pepe's is like a honeymoon with a eunuch"

Le Baaderonixx de Benedict Canyon (baaderonixx), Friday, 28 April 2006 07:41 (nineteen years ago)

It's that kind of place. We saw an unbelieveably decrepit old man hovering around who may just about have been the guy in the photos with all the celebs from the 1960s.

Were there any other diners when you were there? We dined alone. This was a recurring experience... I think the Lebanese eat out at four in the morning or something.

DV (dirtyvicar), Friday, 28 April 2006 08:43 (nineteen years ago)

Hah- yes, same here, alone at Pepe's, with Fairuz blaring from the stereo. Slightly surreal...

Le Baaderonixx de Benedict Canyon (baaderonixx), Friday, 28 April 2006 09:18 (nineteen years ago)

Jeita was much mentionned but we ran out of time so had to skip it. Same thing for the Casino du Liban, which I really wanted to check out.

The Jeita Grotto was interesting, but sure you can get caves anywhere. We shunned the Casion on the same basis, but we seemed to spend a lot of our time going past it. Apparently Miss Universe was held there a couple of years ago. Everyone was very proud of this.

DV (dirtyvicar), Friday, 28 April 2006 09:45 (nineteen years ago)

three years pass...

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/travel/destinations/middle_east/article6916787.ece

pretty good article.

I may be going in May!

wilter, Thursday, 19 November 2009 00:20 (fifteen years ago)


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