Living in Tokyo

So, my wife and I have a chance to live in Tokyo for 1-2 years (PS, if you're reading this - not a word.)

We're trying to figure out about where to live/costs to expect/size of apartment to expect to be able to afford/etc.

We would be moving there for my wife's work, and would then recieve a monthly living expense and moving there would be taken care of.

I've read some other threads about the cultural differences/difficulties - I'm looking for logistical responses. She'll be working in the Shinagawa area of downtown.

no logistical advice here, just jealousy

is japan likely to be in better shape during the world recession/depression than the US?

after what's happened today, probably worse. but they've been screwed for a while. ZOMBIE BANKS. but if you're foreigner with a job already, it won't matter much.

my favorite neighborhoods are all to the west of the yamanote (circle) line: daikanyama, nakameguro, nishikoyama. lots going on there, close-in, and not far from shinagawa. it's surprising, but it gets quiet quick when you head west from shibuya or shinjuku into those areas. i ended up there because of galleries and really liked the areas.

daikanyama and shimokitazawa were my favourite areas to wander around but i only spent a week in the city

as far as apartment size goes, i'd plan on two six mat rooms(10 square meters each) with a sliding door inbetween, a kitchen of maybe 4 mats (6.5 sq m), and a little bathroom. that seems standard for couples or singles, anyone without a family.

i wish i could help with prices but it's probably been too long for me to have much of a realistic idea. i know there are lots of real estate sites (in japanese) you could navigate to start getting an idea. with the decline in population i bet there's better availability than previously, especially in older buildings. apartment buildings age *very* poorly there, and old buildings are way less desireable, giving you a chance to live close-in, where they did so much construction in the 60s and 70s. i remember trying to explain to japanese how 'pre-war' buildings in NYC were considered the best. blank, blank looks.

I lived in Tokyo for 5 years and it's my favorite place on earth. I'm happy to give advice. I lived in Jiyugaoka, which I highly recommend. Areas mentioned by jergins and jabba are also great.

What kind of place do you want to live? What are the three main considerations you have for selecting an area?

Depending on the size of the apartment and location, you can expect to pay anything from $700-$3000 and beyond. For a decent sized place in a convenient location, you should probably budget $1800. I don't know where you live now, but the apartments in Tokyo are small. Really, quite small. I always thought housing in Tokyo is pretty reasonable though.

A few important things to consider:
1. Distance to the train station. (Every ad will include a walking time to the station - often around 10 minutes. This is a crucial bit of info)
2. Type of apartment - 1K = one bedroom and kitchen, 1DK = one bedroom, dining area, and kitchen - 2LDK = two bedrooms, living room, dining area, and kitchen.
3. Size: most apartments in Japan are advertised using an old-fashioned measurement of space that corresponds to the size of one tatami mat. For example, an apartment will have a measurement of 6 tatami mats. One tatami mat is 1.62 square meters. The cheapest apartments are generally 6 tatami mats (some can be as small as 3). That's less than 10 square meters (100 square feet). It's small. You'll probably want to double that size for two people. You can get a nice place of that size for as little as $1200, but probably closer to $1800-$2000.

Whoops, xpost.

jergins OTM regarding age of apartment. Older apartments can be kind of shoddy, because most buildings are expected to be replaced in 20 years or so. Older buildings are also definitely less safe in an earthquake, which is a real consideration in Tokyo.

Hold on, is a three-mat apartment for real? By my calculations, I'm currently lying in a two-mat bed

3 mat apartments exist for sure. Common toilet (often no bathing facility - have to go outside to a public bath). 4.5 mat apartments are not at all unusual. You'll find a lot of 7.5 mat apartments (3 mat area for bath and kitchen).

I'm not sure what you're budget is, but Leopalace is a good place to start. It's a nationwide company that builds already furnished apartments, so you'd get an apt with a TV, fridge, washing machine etc. already there (without having to pay for them). The older buildings are garbage I hear, but I've been living in a newer Leopalace for about 2 years now and I've been pretty happy with it. You also don't have to pay 4 months rent extra up front like you have to do with most Japanese landlords. I hear they take a lot out of you when you leave, but from what I gather nothing outrageous.

I'll be moving to Setagaya-ku in Tokyo next month, maybe this can be a rolling thread.

How you gonna lawyer in Japan? Would it be bad career-wise to have a break before you've done much practising?

but it gets quiet quick when you head west from shibuya or shinjuku into those areas.

i'd say that's true for shibuya but not shinjuku... that said, i'm in my 30s and all my arts-ily friends are stacked in neighborhoods all west of Shinjuku off of Chuo-sen which seem to me very cool and chill (Nakano, Koenji, Ogikubo).

My yupp-ily friends are all in Azabu-Juban, Nishi-Azabu, and that weird area kinda around Ebisu/Hiroo... all really nice neighborhoods and priced accordingly.

How you gonna lawyer in Japan? Would it be bad career-wise to have a break before you've done much practising?

Great question. I'll let you know in 15 years. I'm kind of not too worried about it.

i am going back in may for two weeks. hurrah

Great question. I'll let you know in 15 years. I'm kind of not too worried about it.

Yeah, it's probably a good time to have a 1-2 year break anyway.

"my favorite neighborhoods are all to the west of the yamanote (circle) line: daikanyama, nakameguro, nishikoyama."

My parents live in Nakameguro. Ace neighbourhood!

Liked this piece on the Tokyo underground and literary history.

https://www.litromagazine.com/spring-2021-japan-edition/novels-about-tokyo/

Thanks for sharing