Guitarists - help needed

Well, I think 10s are a bit light for acoustic guitars in general, and a heavier gauge might help with breakage. But it could be another problem. You could have some kind of burr that's cutting the strings (check the nut and bridge closely, and you might be able to use a file or something if there's anything sticking out).

You might also want to stretch your strings more if they're breaking when brand new, or wait a little longer before tuning up above normal range. (did you say you go more than a step above EADGBE or did I misunderstand?)

yeah, well to tune to G, fer instance, I gotta tune that high E up a step and a half. That usually breaks it without fail.

Why not use a capo?

a real guitarist wouldn't ask that

i'd probably use lighter strings for the particularly high tension tunings. it might feel a little odd but at least you won't break the strings so much.

I've never understood why people freak out about capos. I don't use them personally, but I wouldn't be adverse to using one if the situation called for it.

It doesn't matter, this isn't a capo situation - i tune open, so i can just bar everything

i use a capo, who cares

surface noise - LIGHTER strings? Don't you mean heavier? I was thinking of going 11 or 12...

i guess what i mean is, if you're tuning up, why not use a (for example) G string instead of a D string..

ah - hadn't thought of that. hmmmm.....

First of all, the idea that capos are for amateurs is a myth. They can be used to do things that can't be done with bar chords.

Second, if you insist on using that open tuning (which sounds awfully tight for any strings), why not just tune to an open E or F and use a capo? It'll be the exact same effect.

For some reason I was under the impression that lighter strings break more easily but maybe I was wrong.

Is this a problem you have only when putting in new strings? It really takes just over a step and they break? I haven't experienced this (although I usually do weird tunings on the electric - haven't played steel-string acoustic in years actually so maybe I'm not so much help here?). Often it seems that when a student puts on new strings, he or she does put them on tighter than pitch and then we have to tune down. I used to regularly do a piece on the electric where I tuned the low E string just over A, i.e. a fourth (or 2.5 steps) up without it breaking. For the same piece I tuned the A string up over C. You should be able to do this without it breaking so quickly.

But I don't know that I really understand what you're doing with your tuning. Are you tuning every string to G when you go to the G tuning or do you mean you're just tuning to a G maj chord or something else? If you're tuning every string to one note (in diff registers), you'd probably want to look into using different string gauges, like surface noise suggests. That's what Branca does. You'd also need to get your guitar set up on a pretty frequent basis. If it's the latter, there shouldn't be a problem - you should be able to find a root, 3rd, or 5th you can tune down to on any string.

I'd never heard that about taking off all the strings when restringing. I always just take off all the strings if I'm doing this.

damn, .10 gauge strings are incredibly light for an acoustic! i use .13 gauge, and i thought that was considered more or less normal.

and i'd be nervous about tuning any string up a step and a half over normal tuning. that puts a lot of tension on the neck, no? how about this tuning for an open G, which involves no tuning up, only tuning down. from high to low:

D
B
G
D
G
D

Yeah, that's why I was confused and wondered if you were going for a unison drone tuning. You can easily tune to any chord without having to tune anything up. C(from 6 to 1):

E (or C)
G
C
G
C (or G if you wanted to be really strict about not tuning up)
E (In which case, you could make this C)

Pet peeve. It's not "bar chords", it's "barre chords". B-A-R-R-E.

i agree with removing only one string at a time - it's probably best to do this because it's less of a shock on the neck/truss rod. meaning that you should have less set up and tuning issues. remember, a full set of strings is about 100 pounds (i think) of tension on the neck and soundboard. it'll take a while for the guitar to readjust - moreso on an acoustic than electric.

It's probably only *bad* for an old and delicate guitar.

Higher string gauge is pretty essential. I ran into the same problem all the time with 10s, even 11s to an extent. 12s fixed it up just fine, no substantial issues since. Works for me, at least. As has been noted, getting it set up regularly should help too.

Why is it "barre" chords anyway? I always thought it was "bar" because you bar them.

they're named after pamela des barres

Thick thrings at a higher tuning are under more tension and therefore more prone to breakage. Lighter strings are the answer. Simple physics, dudes.

"barre" chords always reminded me of ballet for some reason.

I'm a lot better at barre chords than at ballet, mind you.

this thread was helpful, especially fact checkin cuz's tuning suggestion. will try it when i get home from work and dig out the chromatic tuner from the trunk of the car

thanks e'rbody

> I always thought it was "bar" because you bar them.

Deny them entrance to your licensed premises?

DADGAD and DADF#AD are fun too

The Posies' "Coming RIght Along" is in the tuning of open C# minor:

6 C#
5 G#
4 E
3 G#
2 C#
1 E

Makes those bottom two strings as slack as clotheslines, but it's interesting to play in.

BEBEBE is teh answer