ils menswear and men's clothing part 2: 2023 until we all need stillsuits

i have one, it makes me look hopelessly awful

my enormous 80s bean barn jacket--with a waxed poacher's pocket and webbing for shotgun shells--is one of my prize ebay scores. it is best with the collar flipped up

I've been thinking about what I could contribute to this thread. I bought this pair of shoes a couple of months ago, they're the most comfortable shoes I've ever worn:

Allbirds Men's Tree Dasher Relay

How often do you carry shotgun shells adam

better to have extra pocket features today than to be the guy with loose shells rattling around like a fucking dork tomorrow

I might be tempted to use those shotgun-shell loops for those mini airplane liquor bottles

Or harmonicas in a bunch different keys, like the dude from Blues Traveler

Maybe just go straight-up absurdist and carry like five different kinds of toothpaste or skin moisturizer

i inherited a waxed canvas Barbour-type jacket from my uncle which i absolutely love but am wary about wearing here in the UK because of pretty vivid associations with rich land-owning Tories

something his brother told me that i never knew before is that they were originally invented as motorcycle jackets!

wear mine a fair bit in spring and autumn. walk around brockwell park with a shotgun under my arm. bray loudly at the ducks etc.

a bit of brexit for lunch

xp don’t forget your red cords

correct xp

i haven’t got any red cords. i have got a splendid brick-coloured… well what colour are we calling this?

https://i.imgur.com/UPlDBuA.jpg

Rusty, which is just brown-red

brown, yes.

men should all be required to wear trousers that match the colour of their dog

barbour jacket required to do this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GRSbr0EYYU

l m a o

update: i'm super pleased with my football-game-watching dad oakleys

sorry for thirsty gay selfie vibes but here's the ensemble

https://scontent.fslc3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/347625421_618616300224043_2288187012472386737_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=m81i8f_RjowAX_vg1Ix&_nc_oc=AQnnmf-rqpc-x76yL4-MLkg4VO6OiUMg6dMU55rUFVoUQGU60uRVZJQKUHxD0RhNX_tjiRt4JU6aQLVyxajoRtW_&_nc_ht=scontent.fslc3-1.fna&oh=00_AfDfROhzEMM1w7pYztvhLjgJMM_tFK6vaG8kLezCml-hYw&oe=646CE2C1

"meet the best selling whiting overshirt in marine beatnik"

I'm sorry? I understand nearly all the words individually...

just changed trains at Jamaica, guy on the platform was wearing these. "where to buy weed?" answered.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0232/3955/7200/products/IMG_3735_940x.jpg

Searched around and found Matsson's cardigan from the Succession finale.

nice!

the successionfashion IG account was a good follow.

for just $350 you too could own a mohair cowhican bathrobe

xxxp damn engineered garments really jumped the shark huh

i just bought a washed denim six panel ballcap (not stonewashed, sort of medium dark)

might be too bold of a move, idk. the only dark blue caps i have rn though are us navy caps for ships that are still on active duty here and a a fake padres "LSD" hat. both are ... not versatile enough for my needs

https://www.grailed.com/listings/24490992-handmade-san-diego-padres-lsd-festival-meme-trucker-hat

https://image.shutterstock.com/image-vector/patch-pocket-flat-sketch-vector-260nw-1970807894.jpg

daiki: put this pockets on the front of the jacket
seamstress: which pockets?
daiki: yes

don't forget the king of edible pockets, the hot pocket

all my pockets are hot

pocket like it’s hot

xxxp damn engineered garments really jumped the shark huh

pockets, like Sassafras, can be countable or uncountable. the race is on to see who can achieve "pocket".

meantime we're left with a bunch of sassafrasses

flaneur called their creation "58 pocket shorts", so we know they're playing a different game entirely: all 58 pockets are just slightly larger than a 50 sack

nothing Edward Learian about that, these are strictly for letting the good people know you're dealing

sassafras is also a cool brand with cool pockets

well thx for explaining my dumb joke

ohhh nice

officially middle-aged because bucket hats and plaid pajama bottoms trigger me

i recently found out that the guy from Semisonic's bucket hat is called an Oxford bucket hat, ffs. because of the ribbon.

wait, Semisonic = Closing Time?

ugh, i meant the New Radicals.

i love a bucket hat

happy to report that white Muji crew socks, the ones with two stripes on top, which they call "L Shaped Socks" for some reason, are excellent quality and my favourite socks now. although slightly too thick for summer.

Oh the right angle socks? They’re pretty legit but the person who pairs this household’s socks, Uniqlo ones are better ito wear and tear

Oh yeah, "right angle socks". Okay good to know but it's going to take a lot for me to look on the other side of the fence on this one, the Muji ones are so goddamned good.

Blame it all on Jonah Hill and the Emily Dawn Long hat

hahahaha daft yank bastard. wait for it pic.twitter.com/37mRWahQGW

— dom (@JUNGLlST) November 15, 2023

i want nice wool sweaters but in this economy?

ikwym map, the moths, the moths eating my money! still hope dies eternal and there is nothing like a wool sweater for comfort and good wearing. i've got a lovely ecru jumper, which obv it's important to spill infinitessimal but immediately visible drops of coffee on first thing in the morning (yesterday) and a great brown roll neck.

recent purchases include some old town trousers - their trousers absolutely fantastic and hang beautifully - and giving them one more go on the shirts, which are fine initially, but tbh don't seem to wear very well, particularly as they shrink. this involved a long conversation with Marie, the principle dame of Old Town who has Strong Views. I deliberately ordered a larger size so with washing it would still be a good fit and she strongly demurred, and we ended up coming to a compromise. I hadn't helped that on a previous purchase a couple of years ago, which she remembered, I'd managed to forget my height, making myself two inches shorter than I am. She said at the time 'normally it's the other way round, people (especially men) pretend they are taller! (and slimmer)'.

Anyway, this time she said perfectly affably and requesting that I not take offence, that 'why is it that customers from europe never have a problem with sizes, but it's something i get persistently with people in the UK'. I suggested that perhaps assuming a certain like-for-like type of person, that europeans were generally better dressed, to which she strongly assented, 'I mean I say to my chief cutter (or whatever it was I can't remember), just look out of the *window*, for god's sake, and see how people are dressed'. I immediately had to demur somewhat, as most nations are capable of dressing as badly as each other and often seem to seek to outdo each other in this regard, and frankly who cares tbqh, and also that the sartorial bricolage of youth is often exceptionally good but not conventionally "well-dressed" as such. but i sort of get what she means - at a certain level of smartness many continental europeans do it better, I mean have you *seen* how badly clearly quite prosperous men dress even when trying to look conventionally smart?

anyway, the trousers are great.

bought some flannel shirts from proper cloth for winter too.

I'm quite addicted to this guy's beautiful voice and ASMR videos and the whole fantasy of owning a bespoke Saville Row suit - "fashion is to discredit what you have so that you go out and buy something new" lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVYSPZBBmns

lol. the way he says 'style' is delightful.

Oh yeah that is a joy to listen to. But always maybe next year, the bespoke suit.

Haven't picked up much this year - a couple of denim shirts, and a couple of pairs of Stan Ray 80s painter pants. But thinking about yet another flannel for the winter - maybe one of the UES extra-heavies that just dropped. Also maybe another arc'teryx proton in a disgusting colour (bright orange), given my proton in a disgusting colour (teal) gets a lot of wear.

I am notoriously fussy (usually the only person in the building wearing a tie, let alone a suit) but even I have never done the three-piece thing.

Lately I am digging the middle ground of "relaxed" linen and cotton sportcoats. Pockets without flaps. Slubbed fabrics. A step down from the tweedy Northeastern drunk-English-professor look I spent 25 years cultivating.

i'm a filson whore now. i got this on sale, still v expensive, but i haven't been this happy with a winter coat in my life, absolutely love it.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/B30AAOSwWUNkqipE/s-l1600.jpg

also a pair of their tin cloth pants, which how can one get excited about wearing canvas 5-pocket pants? yet i put them on and i feel awesome. a miracle. maybe next year i can afford some more. heart eyes emojis and embarrassment.

that sounds like a v beguuiling combo

this is one of those things where I look at it and I'm like "fashion has once again baffled me", and then later on it'll no doubt start to make more sense. a tucked-in t-shirt is still something I struggle to parse as being a good thing (even though people have been doing it for ages now), but especially tucked into what look like school greys and Sunday shoes, it comes across like an overgrown kid on the last day of term to me.

― DLC Soundsystem (dog latin), Wednesday, May 7, 2025 12:11 PM (one month ago) bookmarkflaglink

I think a lot of us haven't learned the fashion language to interpret some current looks. There's a lot to recommend straight-leg trousers and higher waists in menswear, it's why fashion icons of the 1930s and 40s etc look so good and easy and relaxed yet tailored. It's before capitalism made every company cut patterns tighter and tighter to use less fabric.

I work with a 20-something who regularly wears used men's dress shirts as very oversized women's office wear. I also wore used men's shirts from 1996-2006 but I couldn't have re-cast them as work-wear no matter what I did, we just weren't there.

there’s a good article about the high waist in the WSJ of all places, from last year. they talk to david lane, who is kind of a style icon now, and for good reason, he always looks great. (his instagram is bigfits1)

https://archive.is/cqUuh