ils menswear and men's clothing part 2: 2023 until we all need stillsuits

Oh yeah, "right angle socks". Okay good to know but it's going to take a lot for me to look on the other side of the fence on this one, the Muji ones are so goddamned good.

Blame it all on Jonah Hill and the Emily Dawn Long hat

hahahaha daft yank bastard. wait for it pic.twitter.com/37mRWahQGW

— dom (@JUNGLlST) November 15, 2023

i want nice wool sweaters but in this economy?

ikwym map, the moths, the moths eating my money! still hope dies eternal and there is nothing like a wool sweater for comfort and good wearing. i've got a lovely ecru jumper, which obv it's important to spill infinitessimal but immediately visible drops of coffee on first thing in the morning (yesterday) and a great brown roll neck.

recent purchases include some old town trousers - their trousers absolutely fantastic and hang beautifully - and giving them one more go on the shirts, which are fine initially, but tbh don't seem to wear very well, particularly as they shrink. this involved a long conversation with Marie, the principle dame of Old Town who has Strong Views. I deliberately ordered a larger size so with washing it would still be a good fit and she strongly demurred, and we ended up coming to a compromise. I hadn't helped that on a previous purchase a couple of years ago, which she remembered, I'd managed to forget my height, making myself two inches shorter than I am. She said at the time 'normally it's the other way round, people (especially men) pretend they are taller! (and slimmer)'.

Anyway, this time she said perfectly affably and requesting that I not take offence, that 'why is it that customers from europe never have a problem with sizes, but it's something i get persistently with people in the UK'. I suggested that perhaps assuming a certain like-for-like type of person, that europeans were generally better dressed, to which she strongly assented, 'I mean I say to my chief cutter (or whatever it was I can't remember), just look out of the *window*, for god's sake, and see how people are dressed'. I immediately had to demur somewhat, as most nations are capable of dressing as badly as each other and often seem to seek to outdo each other in this regard, and frankly who cares tbqh, and also that the sartorial bricolage of youth is often exceptionally good but not conventionally "well-dressed" as such. but i sort of get what she means - at a certain level of smartness many continental europeans do it better, I mean have you *seen* how badly clearly quite prosperous men dress even when trying to look conventionally smart?

anyway, the trousers are great.

bought some flannel shirts from proper cloth for winter too.

I'm quite addicted to this guy's beautiful voice and ASMR videos and the whole fantasy of owning a bespoke Saville Row suit - "fashion is to discredit what you have so that you go out and buy something new" lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVYSPZBBmns

lol. the way he says 'style' is delightful.

Oh yeah that is a joy to listen to. But always maybe next year, the bespoke suit.

Haven't picked up much this year - a couple of denim shirts, and a couple of pairs of Stan Ray 80s painter pants. But thinking about yet another flannel for the winter - maybe one of the UES extra-heavies that just dropped. Also maybe another arc'teryx proton in a disgusting colour (bright orange), given my proton in a disgusting colour (teal) gets a lot of wear.

I am notoriously fussy (usually the only person in the building wearing a tie, let alone a suit) but even I have never done the three-piece thing.

Lately I am digging the middle ground of "relaxed" linen and cotton sportcoats. Pockets without flaps. Slubbed fabrics. A step down from the tweedy Northeastern drunk-English-professor look I spent 25 years cultivating.

i'm a filson whore now. i got this on sale, still v expensive, but i haven't been this happy with a winter coat in my life, absolutely love it.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/B30AAOSwWUNkqipE/s-l1600.jpg

also a pair of their tin cloth pants, which how can one get excited about wearing canvas 5-pocket pants? yet i put them on and i feel awesome. a miracle. maybe next year i can afford some more. heart eyes emojis and embarrassment.

Map, I can see why you like that but... are you secretly a Jawa?

https://lumiere-a.akamaihd.net/v1/images/jawas-main_a668013b.jpeg

it's true that some say so, but nobody really knows

I can't imagine getting a 3-piece suit - it'd just be coat and trousers if I went bespoke. Deep brown donegal tweed is what I keep thinking of but really I have no call to wear a suit now, much less one that'd be pretty country. Still, one day, one day.

fizzles:

i have always liked the look of old town. feel like it would be easier to wear without someone shouting "oi monty don" at me from a passing car where i live too. but i can't deal with the shipping/returns. one day!

i have a couple of proper cloth shirts but struggled with dialing in the fit. did you need a few attempts or did you get it right first time? any tips?

currently getting a lot of wear out of these corduroys from uniqlo which unusually fit me off the rack https://www.uniqlo.com/eu/en/product/smart-corduroy-ankle-length-trousers-459706.html. also enjoying some alex mill stuff (mid price americana basics, worth a look imo).

Old Town trousers are the best but I barely wear them now I'm not in offices.

With Proper cloth, I got very close by measuring a dress shirt I could 100% trust (Sean O'Flynn bespoke, made for my wedding) though I think I actually screwed up the first order by fudging numbers to make it more casual.

proper cloth is great

caek:

this is a live issue! i’ve been using them for a while now (think it was woof who put me on to them actually) despite exchange rates etc.

initial orders fitted fine but i noticed a couple subsequently (same measurements) didn’t so much. now i will be the first to admit (after a period of denial) that this may be because i have become slightly more Of Thick Tum but also the older ones are still fine.

anyway i loosened the measures somewhat but im not sure it’s exactly right. i mean none of them look like clown clothes obv, and we’re talking relatively fine margins here. but obviously the one thing is conducive to smartness is a good fit so. might have an nyc visit soon so thinking of hitting up their measuring service tbh.

lol i did not know they had a measuring/showroom place 10 blocks from where i now sit.

IDK if this is the right thread, but I got invited to a 70s costume party and I am always really terrible at costumes, but I want to come with something a little better than just a stupid cheap looking brown polyester wide lapel jacket and a fro wig.

Help me brainstorm a look and where to get it. I sort of like the idea of a turtleneck sweater and tinted glasses, like a 70s sophisticate cocktail party sort of getup.

I have done this. My wife's company hired KC and the Sunshine Band for a 70s theme party.

Your nearest party-supply store will have a cheap peace-sign bead necklace and the requisite sunglasses. A thrift store could probably hook you up with a synthetic paisley shirt.

i can’t stand all that costume store hippie crap tbrr

i like your idea man alive

if you can’t find tinted glasses you could keep the turtleneck and go for more of a campus look and find some corduroy. i’m thinking elbow patches on a corduroy jacket

^ wtf this is how i dress

maybe fizzles can attend and you won’t have to go man alive

if i ever get invited to a 70s party i'd like to go with "joe don baker in a trucker movie"

xp Mr Kotter was another idea I had. I have the hair for it, would just need to shave the facial hair other than moustache/sideburns. Corduroy Jacket, brown pants, wide tie, wide collar shirt, IDK what kind of shoes but probably doesn't matter.

maybe fizzles can attend and you won’t have to go man alive

All these ideas are really lame
You should go as Gene Simmons in full makeup, with the fake blood pouring out of your mouth and most importantly, the pyrotechnics
You could walk around staining the carpet with the false blood and “inadvertently” starting house fires all evening.
If you don’t overdo it you are really missing an opportunity. You can dress up like a dorky fucking professor whenever you want.

sorry but my joe don baker in a trucker movie idea is objectively hot

oh shit sorry i missed that 1

to be read in the voice of a gay german videographer:

70s professor, okay yeah, sell the ice storm to me, corduroy jacket and round glasses is basic level, you're fucking the other professor's wife like john updike, i need to feel the arrogance and the absent-mindedness, i'm thinking you need a pipe and a pair of basketball shoes otherwise no one cares.

had to google. that's a timeless look
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/M/MV5BMDIzMDdmNTYtMDY2Mi00NGIwLTlmMzQtODljOWFmZWEyZmE5XkEyXkFqcGdeQXVyMzI5NDcxNzI@._V1_.jpg

i think you can dress like that whenever you want, too.

Powers Boothe as Jim Jones

https://c8.alamy.com/comp/HD4XX4/guyana-tragedy-the-story-of-jim-jones-diane-ladd-powers-boothe-1980-HD4XX4.jpg

i think you can dress like that whenever you want, too.

― Deflatormouse, Monday, January 22, 2024 8:52 PM (fifteen minutes ago) bookmarkflaglink

yeah this is basically my look tbh

hey @zach_tbd, do you think you could photoshop map's Oakleys (pictured upthread) onto Joe Don Baker's face TYVM

OK map is totally bringing it with the Updikean academia adultery theme. I bow to map's vision.

Fwiw I already have all those jackets (tweed and corduroy, with and without leather elbow patches). A former girlfriend once described my aesthetic as "drunk English professor" and I didn't disagree.

fall and winter = hippie mainer

spring and summer = crusty faggot

good looks

i'm feeling metal band tees this year

keep trying to find an outfit for my oxbow tee. keep failing. it’s not really a v good tee but i do like the album title “Love’s Holiday”.

jealous, i wish i had an oxbow shirt

finding new favorite bands from the style thread: classic

this vitriol tee is on its way

https://vitriolwarfare.bigcartel.com/product/servants-of-the-secret-fire-pre-order

this richard dawson tee i picked up last year gets a lot of wear

https://i.imgur.com/pcblyDh.jpg

Had the trousers and just ordered the jacket for the full look.

https://i.postimg.cc/qvxzx5Gx/IMG-0255.jpg

I am not sure Erdem will do another men’s collection for a while, which is a shame.

what are some of your favorite men’s fashion blogs? moreso interested in casual/street wear but anything will do

I'm in this interzone where I feel like men's fashion has changed a fair bit in the last few years, and also I am now safely in young middle-age and my whole wardrobe looks like it's from another era.

Plus people in Bristol, UK tend to deliberately dress down (you don't see people in tailored or vintage stuff, it's all skate and sportswear), so I feel daggy if I go for anything more preppy than an overshirt.

All the plain t-shirts I bought from Cos as staples a couple of years back feel too "fitted", not baggy enough, especially since the cut of jeans has relaxed significantly. I could do with some new ones.

Currently I'm really not sure how to shop for myself really. I'm conscious of trying too hard to be down with the kids - I already have some fairly baggy Carhartt WIP carpenter jeans and, like, one t-shirt that actually works with it.

Likewise, the places I hang out and the overall vibe of where I live, smarter/preppier looks make me feel like a narc.

Also: I don't have a heap of money, but with summer coming up I kinda need to do something

They’ve updated their wardrobe pic.twitter.com/IikQNUPARc

— Call me Rose🌹 (@SlayyyRose) April 18, 2024

What are good brands these days for sunglasses under $150 and preferably under $100? I've had Ray Ban new wayfarers for several years but the lenses got scratched.

Idk about up and coming, I got some polarized ones from Blue Planet and I love the color, shape, and design. They also provided me excellent customer service when I broke one of the parts and asked over a year after purchase if they would sell me a replacement part, and they couldn't do that but the agent sent me a new pair(!!!).