ils menswear and men's clothing part 2: 2023 until we all need stillsuits

just checking in to say i haven't reached the turtleneck phase yet but we can circle back to this post in 10 years

i guess i'm ok with the turtleneck as like a 'settling into type' of some kind? way out of my lane though.

i got a corny email from filson after i bought my trucker hat from them, like "how do you like your provisions?" below a huge image of some dude on horseback, and i wimpered in shame because i loved it lol.

one of the funniest all time garments is the mock turt

https://i.imgur.com/SSUTVq7.png

mock turts can be hot but only if you're a professional football player

athlete driving a jeep is the prototypical mock turt wearer, you could even have a team turt with the logo on the collar, but then somehow steve job in a high fashion mock turt is its most famous wearer

it's sad imo, fuck steve jobs

make mock turts great again

i respect that he sought out an expensive japanese mock turt and wore one every day, true lunatic behavior

sleeveless mock turts in a jeep or gtfo

amen brother, & the mock turt maker better send me an email saying "happy trails" after it's delivered to me.

It's the only type of shirt that is also a type of soup

As far as I know

Red wing and Nintendo have teamed up to bring Super Mario’s Shoes To Life (2023) pic.twitter.com/0yqFdXnpqf

— Outlander Magazine (@StreetFashion01) March 10, 2023

lmao

cant wait to stomp on all my enemies

https://www.cnn.com/2023/05/09/australia/australia-william-leslie-arnold-cold-case-intl-hnk-dst/index.html

wow chambray double needle workshirt, such authentic, is it selvedge, where can i cop?

‘Well, he was an orphan. He didn’t lie about that, but he killed his parents, that’s why he was an orphan.’

👌

who's looking snazzy for summer

https://img.staticdj.com/0db3f52ccc134a79e32104a267bc5f39_1080x.jpeg

for real though i got this filson mechanic shirt and i can't wait to cosplay rough trade at the club

https://filson-canto.imgix.net/3qrso6g9vh57785bqmdpdcil37/gs6KD7w7k41qERPg97FERgdWi3Y/original?h=2000&w=2000&bg=ffffff&q=80&auto=format,compress&fit=fillmax

stussy has done many iterations on this workwear classic

besides the fact that i've never quite been able to pull off hickory stripe, i also have a morbid fear of catching my chest hair when adjusting the zip

i could not make it work personally but it's a cool style of shirt

my summer look is “aging crustpunk” or “hippie preppy”

The one with the half zip is odd but it is at least comprehensible as clothing for a male adult human in the western hemisphere.

I don't really understand the blue shirt above it with what I guess is a keyhole neckline?

Not my personal thing, but if that is something you wish to wear, go ahead; rock on with your bad selves.

I do not know what crust is so I'm prolly gonna keep dressing like my father, my stepfather, and almost every male person I ever knew who has a PhD in the humanities and a drinking problem. Our collective aesthetic is "louche English professor" and mostly it is working out for us.

We wear tweed nine months out of the year and linen for three months, and we do okay.

god bless

i'm also on the lookout for the douchiest sport sunglasses imaginable, i think it might have to be these oakleys

https://assets2.oakley.com/cdn-record-files-pi/c6ca0fe9-4ff1-43c5-8fa3-aefd00ef8cc0/77a5f4ac-6e0d-4929-bd9d-aefd00f83d56/0OO9271__927153__P21__shad__qt.png?impolicy=OO_ratio&width=2000

for the record, the blue shirt was a joke

i used to sling secondhand & vintage clothing as a side hustle and have the kind of eclectic wardrobe that goes with the territory.

my favorite stuff has tended to be postwar era- not too military, not too rockabilly, more outdoor and phys ed apparel. it's blockish and severe and looks good with my buzz cut.

i've gained a lot of weight in the last few years, though. i resisted buying any new clothes, instead i've tried to squeeze into anything i had that was oversized or less fitted. but it's got to the point where that's no longer an option.

so the first thing i noticed is that used clothes cost as much as new clothes now. not just coveted vintage pieces, i mean absolutely everything. wtf?? i guess i'm glad more people are buying secondhand shit but this is crazy.

i'm not going to buy fast fashion bullshit that falls apart in 3 months and ends up in a landfill. i'm not going invest in heirloom pieces because of my fluctuating weight (i was S/P and could fit into youth sizes, now i'm a true M/L) and also i'm living with uncertainties about my health. and i'm def not paying what ridiculous vintage repro brands charge for basics, holy shit.

digging around the online secondhand market a bit, it's really hard to find anything that justifies the price. Billy Reid stuff is about the best value, with a lot of pieces made in Italy under $30. i'm also seeing some deals for Steven Alan, though the quality and price point is much more variable there. this kind of stuff is a little more "normal guy" than what i usually go for, but i like it well enough i guess. the guys i see on the subway who dress like that always look like they have their ducks in a row. the problem is that as it's sort of blandish no individual piece inspires me to pull the trigger.

i'm through with buying clothes, forever. fashion is the biggest racket going, better drop those pounds fast i guess.

Not my personal thing, but if that is something you wish to wear, go ahead; rock on with your bad selves.

fixed

gah

Not my personal thing, but if that is something you wish to wear, go ahead; rock on with your bad selves.

:D

i doubt this is up your alley because it's very military but i need to evangelize about soffe silkies (or "ranger panties") for a second. if there was a god in heaven more men with nice legs would wear them. they're incredibly short. they're also incredibly comfortable. i wear them to the gym every day, whaddup.

https://cdn10.bigcommerce.com/s-19fkae7/products/361/images/1548/M020_ranger-olive__50494.1563829773.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

i once sold a pair of champion running man herringbone gym shorts in military olive color with a < 3" inseam for like $150.

i have 1940s basketball shorts somewhere that are shorter. alas, my legs have seen better days.

ftr i am pro gym shorts. on guys with nice legs it's not even a question.

YMP, “crust punk” is wearing cut-off tees with hardcore bands or cop-fighting anime characters or trains on them with booty shorts . it gets hot in Philly.

“hippie preppy” is wearing nicer clothes but they’re a little too bright and strange and it might seem like i’m on drugs. LL Bean but make it drug-running

preppie gone druggy is classic story

i like ll bean too, but it's a good example of the secondhand market insanity with items that used to reliably fetch $10-15 starting around $50. guess i'm done with ll bean.

Seth from Dufus is the ultimate crust punk. he doesn't wear a ton of black but i saw him on the G train c. 2001 with huge mounds of actual garbage glued to his shoes.

whats a good bargain on the second hand market these days

Wow I literally have no idea what you folks are talking about but okay

I only shop LL Bean at discount shops or at the outlets in Maine— I save a couple hundred just for clothes on my annual Maine trip.

(or at least I try)

i find ll bean made in usa pieces on ebay for $10-15 regularly. usually when sellers don't put it in the title and you gotta scroll the pics to see the tags. 90s era denim/chambray shirts in partic.

not usa but ll bean camp collar shirts are plentiful, affordable, and good for summer. i have two in a pleasingly colonialist batik print that look great with the sleeves rolled way way up for flexing purposes (the default unrolled silhouette is very tommy bahama).

levis 550s (the relaxed fit) are very cheap on ebay and comfortable year round in nyc imo.

my man!

am i not as patient and resourceful as i used to be or are we looking at different pieces?

not seeing a big price difference between made in usa and imported tbh. i have seen the camp shirts real cheap! i don't want em because tommy bahama silhouette is otm

also i like camp shirts a lot but why does every fucking short sleeve shirt have a camp collar now?

annual Maine trip.

ppl who have figured out how to live

As much as I like the patterns on a lot of camp collar shirts, I am very much sticking with butch collars; they just sit better on me. I’m currently scouting around for colourful print shirts, but with long sleeves. I never actually wear them long; instead I roll them up high above the elbow, as the shape nicely masks my skinny upper arms.

camp collar is code for “i’m available”, can’t believe you guys didn’t know this

deflatormouse, one of my oldest friends comes from some money, her family has a spot on an island off of Maine— dreamy place, but i certainly couldn’t afford such a trip if i were paying for anything besides gas, tolls, and gifts

I'm happy that this forest-green Land's End barn jacket, with a corduroy collar -- it was my late dads, from the 80s/90s -- is now suddenly in style.

like a Barbour jacket?

A lot like this one (I guess Lands' End is still making them!).

Oh, and here's the jacket itself on Ebay, though mine is less faded.

that sounds amazing table, my last comment was without irony or judgement, i'm glad you get to experience that place! i've only been to maine once, with a guy i was dating who grew up in the portland area. we went for a visit and hit boothbay, it was insanely beautiful.

as midcentury leisure shirts go i'm into the early 60's italian collar and have one in my rotation currently
https://www.themoviescene.co.uk/reviews/_img/8384-3.jpg

those barn jackets never went out of style.

i have one, it makes me look hopelessly awful

my enormous 80s bean barn jacket--with a waxed poacher's pocket and webbing for shotgun shells--is one of my prize ebay scores. it is best with the collar flipped up

I've been thinking about what I could contribute to this thread. I bought this pair of shoes a couple of months ago, they're the most comfortable shoes I've ever worn:

Allbirds Men's Tree Dasher Relay

Vinted has been fantastic for me since I found out about it a few months ago. At first I thought it was just slim pickings, but once you've used the app a bit, liked a few things, personalised what brands, sizes, colours etc you like, it really starts delivering the goods. the only issue is that you obvs can't send something back if it's not right

Yeah I've found it best for stuff where perfect fit is not so much of an issue eg cardigans, jackets etc

Not a Sedaris fan, but enjoyed this piece on Comme des Garçons. Goes well with John Waters's one in Role Models.

i got a pair of “cowboy cut” regular fit wranglers ie their 501 equivalent. the main thing I like about is they look ok for a dad and they are $30.

Lol they’re £60 in England! But I agree they are great. No stretch. I have two pairs - one a nice deep blue and one a “chocolate black”.

Rocking my baggiest jean in years lately and it's a nice change. By a Canadian brand called Dime. Straight fit and very loose.

Jncos or gtfo cowards

cowboy cut also comes in a comfort fit if you want some room in the trunk.

for your gun

I have five pairs of jeans these days, none of them are levi’s for the first time in over a decade, and they all feel great.

those wranglers do look pretty good imo and yeah they're crazy cheap. i used to pick up pairs from a department store here called "fred meyer's" that was kinda like a sears with a grocery store.

I’ve probably said this before but I have a friend who used to work for Levi’s and she told me the reason jeans are so much cheaper in the US than in Europe is because Europeans expect higher quality so they have to make better jeans for them lmao

People keep talking to me about Japanese jeans. Do I need to get Japanese jeans? (I wear jeans pretty much every day. I'm 50.)

No

Actually let me adjust. Do you want to talk about your jeans at hipster parties? If yes, go right ahead. Hopefully you get the right fit on the first try and/or free returns.

I’ve probably said this before but I have a friend who used to work for Levi’s and she told me the reason jeans are so much cheaper in the US than in Europe is because Europeans expect higher quality so they have to make better jeans for them lmao

I am sure your friend is trustworthy but I also suspect this is foutaise totale and the real reason is Europeans are just suckers willing to pay more for American-branded blue jeans than the American market will tolerate

Actually let me adjust. Do you want to talk about your jeans at hipster parties? If yes, go right ahead. Hopefully you get the right fit on the first try and/or free returns.

Haha. Fair enough. I don't go out, so seems a waste.

I’m still blown away that we live in a world where Carhartt can command a price north of $120 USD for a pair of their jeans. Carhartt!

i've thought about getting poly blend "chinos" from a web site called "barbell apparel" because the high-quality jeans i bought from filson strain over my gigantic upper legs like sausage casings and those are all the pants i have left. don't really like the look or feel of poly blend, and i'm suspicious of anything stretchy over $100, but it sure is useful if you want to .. do yoga in your cubicle, like me, a giant dweeb. i should probably look at uniqlo though. maybe carhartt too honestly, i bet they have some sorta stretchy 5 pockets or something.

Carhartt is considered a pretty worthy upper-mid-range streetwear brand in the UK as opposed to literal workwear like in the US

There are two brands - Carhartt is the regular workwear one, Carharrt WIP is the more expensive streetwear stuff.

the real reason is Europeans are just suckers willing to pay more for American-branded blue jeans than the American market will tolerate

this is the theory i came to her with and she disabused me of it pretty quick. the only europeans still in thrall to the romance of american jeans are like 70 years old

yeah Carhartt WIP is a separate thing, not for the traditional Carhartt market.

tom perhaps the way we can both be right here is with the notion that jeans, whether american or no, are considered a more premium product in europe

bottom line my £60 wrangler straight cowboy cuts are going to last longer than caek’s $30 ones. depending on how many broncos each of us bust obv

I guess I’m also a weirdo for not trying to wear my jeans until they actually start to fall apart

I haven't worn jeans in years but lately been yearning for a roomy pair Ironheart.

in my ahem 20s i went through a period of almost exclusively wearing 501s bought in vintage/charity shops and i remember once deciding to stump for new ones from the levis shop on regents street and being appalled by both the price and how shitty the quality was. every pair they had was thin elasticated denim. at this point they had already introduced a highly tiered system of 501s where you had to spend a lot more to get normal denim ones, but they were not available in the london shop. a few years after this i switched to getting jeans at uniqlo instead, generally buying them too large and taking in the waist to get a wider cut (this was before you could easily find a wide-legged pair of jeans anywhere). isnt the 'japanese denim' thing supposed to be that all the proper denim looms that levis once owned have been sold to japan? (this is what i've absorbed somewhere along the line, may be nonsense). i feel like a classic 501 look is chic again but not for me.

im only recently relearning the need (well the opportunity) of looking for pants of any sort that do more than close, so am in the first blush of enjoying the pair of 501s i picked up during the year on a heavy sale, but the elusive mix of fit, quality and price for a pair that might wear as a "good" pair of jeans for more than say a year still eludes me

herself has been buying from a few places that market heavily online as better quality alternatives but whether that's just a new instagram advert gap that has been taken advantage of or not i havent yet decided- arket seem ok but not amazing, fits tend to boxy, octobre stuff i do like but haven't really had a chance to wear long enough to know for sure

really tho im heading as quickly as i can towards heavier wool, pleated, high waisted if i need to be seen at all for work or occasions, and joggers at home

chinos have had their day

Getting trousers that fit nicely is a mission, always. Have found a few brands that work for me lately and thankfully trousers tend to last quite a while, but accidentally forgetting to bag a nice wool pair has left me down one due to a moth attack. No matter what I do I can't get rid of moths, just mitigate against them by storing stuff properly.

any tips? we have moths too even after fumigating, v annoying (and potentially expensive)

Micro-wasps!

The sprays and hangers and stuff probably have eased the numbers a bit but besides that I just got loads of Ziploc plastic bags for my wool for the winter, conveniently forgetting to put favourite pair of trousers in one, and it got absolutely destroyed.

The other stuff is all grand tho

we store out season in plastic boxes in the attic with some sort of anti moth strip of paper (and a bar of soap) in each and usually get away with it

tom of course you're a weirdo. whatever gave you the idea you weren't??

I vacuum-pack my seasonal clothes. Seems to work

I have a friend who used to work for Levi’s and she told me the reason jeans are so much cheaper in the US than in Europe is because Europeans expect higher quality so they have to make better jeans for them

I feel like Levi's is one of the all-time kings of producing just wildly different quality levels for different markets without much marking or branding them as such? Not just globally but even coursing into the same geographical space — like NYC has "Levi's stores" selling $90 jeans sitting down the block from "Levi's stores" crammed full of $19 pairs, and they've (probably wisely) avoided using any of the usual designations to reflect that (like "Signature" or "Factory" or whatever). They've helpfully marked a certain class upward: what I would consider a standard-issue non-fancy U.S.-market pair is now "Levi's Premium," so you can at least order that online and expect a certain floor of quality. Blindly order anything just marked "Levi's," though, and it's honestly kind of amazing how many different quality levels and fabric types and sizing schemes you might wind up with. There's some whole globe-spanning machine pumping stuff out and you wind up holding some jeans with no resemblance to the others you have in that cut and size, wondering if this is what they normally aim at Egypt or Poland or the Philippines.

At some point recently I took to wearing Levi's pearl-snap western shirts as a most-days uniform, and thankfully this variance was less pronounced there, but there's still a good deal of it, like each color scheme being a completely different fabric from a different source.

I've been on the verge of trying those much-loved Wranglers for years, like constantly putting them in a cart someplace, and then I always think no, you have enough clothes, and if these are as good as people say you will just start pointlessly buying more of them, stop shopping and go give $30 the food bank instead. But now I lost a few pounds and actually need some new jeans — should I give them a go? (Even if I have an ass?)

imo they make your ass look pretty good because they’re a reasonably medium rise and the back pockets sit up pretty high, compared to other jeans. go for it nabs

I've got some wheat-colored Levis that, luckily, I remembered to dig out and wear today, since they only seem right this exact time of year.

nice

They're basically these.

wrangler has "must make man ass look good" deep in their genes hurhur

my jeans have good ass

(I had to check the label, but mine are 501s, not 514s like that link. I've had them for more than a decade, but they're still not feeling quite broken in, since I've only worn them a few times a year.)

Haven't had a pair of Wranglers in a long time, but all this makes me want to try them again.

I hate jeans, I have gone full sweatpants— including very fancy sweatpants, mind you— and I don’t plan on going back. Absent an occasion, I won’t wear pants I find uncomfortable. Life’s too short.

wfh and dog walks ive gone same way this year

allows for a more curated and separated wardrobe selection for when i have to dress for any other occasion tho

I’m not really a jeans guy but I do love those two pairs of Wranglers. My only other jeans are a super loose “relaxed” pair of Gap jeans that are like at least one size too big for me and they’re super comfy, like as comfy as sweatpants. I wear them high up on my waist with a belt. Good for walks or being in the garden

my boss told me that my in-cubicle yoga is "a little distracting". she suggested a curtain lmao. what you don't like seeing my huge ass downward dogging you?

i'm such a dumb whore for overpriced 'tactical' pants from the internet. i think i gotta dial back the money though and just get me some carhartts.