I'm off to India

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I assume there are no Indian ILMers...? I've been before (Goa and Bangalore) and this time am taking the wife and hitting the "golden triangle" in the north before heading to Mumbai and from there to Goa (spec. Palolem and Benaulim - I can't stand that euro-raver crap culture in the northern towns). Any advice about Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Nawalgarh, Mumbai and the train rides between each, I'd appreciate it. Or just tell me crazy stories.

Shakey Mo Collier (Shakey Mo Collier), Tuesday, 25 October 2005 20:29 (nineteen years ago)

I assume there are no Indian ILMers...?

there are a few who are of indian extraction. and i think n/a lived in india for a time.

katrina vanden roffle (Jody Beth Rosen), Tuesday, 25 October 2005 20:35 (nineteen years ago)

well this one time i flipped my car over and managed to survive

gear (gear), Tuesday, 25 October 2005 20:38 (nineteen years ago)

If you come back with bright red teeth people will talk. Let them.

Aimless (Aimless), Tuesday, 25 October 2005 20:42 (nineteen years ago)

I lived in Delhi for 4 years as a snotty American dip brat, and in Bombay for a year and a half, but I was just a baby then. I'll answer any questions I can.

n/a (Nick A.), Tuesday, 25 October 2005 20:43 (nineteen years ago)

I'm not into the betel nut thing. n/a have you been back since you were an adult...? I'm not planning on staying long in Delhi, seems like not the most pleasant place.

Shakey Mo Collier (Shakey Mo Collier), Tuesday, 25 October 2005 20:52 (nineteen years ago)

I worked for a month in Delhi last year, and it really is not pleasant. I got so much hassle there, from strangers popping out in front of me with unlikely offers of help. On the positive side, jantar mantar, a kind of glorified sundial complex, is a truly wonderful tourist attraction and not to be missed. Old Delhi is great fun, too, and much less annoying for tourists than New Delhi.

Also not to be missed: Qutb Minar and Humayun's tomb.

I took the train to Agra, which was fine, takes about 4 hours. The food on the train was really good and astoundingly cheap, even by Indian standards. Same goes for the train to and from Chandigarh, which was more like an inflight catering service, in that you had food brought to your seat at no extra cost.

Chandigarh is interesting. It's a new town designed by le Corbusier. The main selling point for me - in fact the only reason I ventured up there - was the Nek Chand rock garden, which is well worth a visit. Check out the swings!!!

Japanese Giraffe (Japanese Giraffe), Wednesday, 26 October 2005 09:42 (nineteen years ago)

eat with one hand and wipe with your other LOL!!!!!!!!!

ESTEBAN BUTTEZ~!!, Wednesday, 26 October 2005 10:16 (nineteen years ago)

I'm Indian and my family and I go there every few years to visit. I've taken two trains while there. On the first one I had a nest of red ants at my head, and after I discovered this, at my feet. That one was many many years ago though. The second one was an overnight train last year and though it was a little cramped I thought it was pretty cool. It reminded me of the pillow forts I built as a kid.

Vinnie (vprabhu), Wednesday, 26 October 2005 12:36 (nineteen years ago)

Oh and the train ride last year was from Jodhpur to Delhi.

Vinnie (vprabhu), Wednesday, 26 October 2005 12:39 (nineteen years ago)

thx for the info - keep it comin. Jandar mantar is def. already on our itinerary for Delhi (tho we won't be there for more than a day or two - just enough time to adjust and get our bearings after the flight). The big train rides we'll be taking are from Jaipur to Mumbai (16 hrs) and the Konkan Railway - in both cases overnight trains, so we'll probably try to travel on the higher-end (ie, A/C class) for comfort's sake.

Shakey Mo Collier (Shakey Mo Collier), Wednesday, 26 October 2005 16:08 (nineteen years ago)

Yeah, I started to post on this thread but then started to feel useless because most of the time I was in India I was focused on trying to be an "American teenager" and keep some kind of identity so I was pretty ignorant, plus I can't remember the names of any of the cool places we went on vacation, but I was going to say that it's worth shelling out the extra money for the train to get a private compartment or sleeper, and if you take a bus or a driver to avoid travelling at night because Indian roads at night are insane deathtraps.

n/a (Nick A.), Wednesday, 26 October 2005 16:11 (nineteen years ago)

oh I've done the overnight busride to nowhere with the movies blasting and half-a-dozen guys "driving" the bus and my knees smashed into the seat in front of me and my backpack on my lap, hurtling along cliffsides - that was fucking nuts. never again.

Shakey Mo Collier (Shakey Mo Collier), Wednesday, 26 October 2005 16:15 (nineteen years ago)

oh - i saw this awesome episode of THE AMAZING RACE where they were in india. all the natives were so awed all the time. india, land of awe!

petesmith (plsmith), Wednesday, 26 October 2005 16:15 (nineteen years ago)

I was apparently too self-absorbed to notice, but my dad says he still has nightmares about a family trip where we hired a driver who was driving us at night - basically a constant string of almost being plowed directly into by truck drivers, barely pulling into the other lane in time to avoid collision, over and over and over again.

n/a (Nick A.), Wednesday, 26 October 2005 16:20 (nineteen years ago)

I suppose I was lucky I couldn't see out the window.

Oddly the busride back in the opposite direction was actually rather pleasant, I had a little sleeper compartment.

Shakey Mo Collier (Shakey Mo Collier), Wednesday, 26 October 2005 16:23 (nineteen years ago)

oh great. explosions.

Shakey Mo Collier (Shakey Mo Collier), Saturday, 29 October 2005 13:43 (nineteen years ago)

I've got to agree with the fact that night rides aren't exactly the brightest thing to do. Ah, the pastoral joys of bullock carts with no lights (duh, obv.) that you almost run into. Train rides are fine if you manage to get 1st class or private compartments, though one of my best/worst memories of living in India was when I spent a whole night on a crap couch near the toilet and just really couldn't get a bit of sleep, what with everybody kinda running into my feet... at the time it was horrible, but I now look back fondly on those memories :D

Jibé, Saturday, 29 October 2005 20:30 (nineteen years ago)

Allright I leave in a couple hours. Will I bother to post to ILX while there? Who can say....

Shakey Mo Collier (Shakey Mo Collier), Friday, 4 November 2005 20:02 (nineteen years ago)

Enjoy!

Tripmaker (SDWitzm), Friday, 4 November 2005 20:09 (nineteen years ago)

Have fun!

Jibé, Friday, 4 November 2005 23:49 (nineteen years ago)

send postcard

phil-two (phil-two), Saturday, 5 November 2005 00:19 (nineteen years ago)

in Agra now ... thanks for the music suggestions, found a CD of A.R. Rahman's "Jagaan" sdtk ($1.25)

Shakey Mo Collier (Shakey Mo Collier), Friday, 11 November 2005 11:36 (nineteen years ago)

two months pass...
My work is sending me to India at the end of the month! I have to attend an event in Delhi on 25th, one in Kolkata on 27th and another in March on 29th. After that, I have a whole week to explore. It's all very exciting! I might have half a day spare in Delhi and Kolkata and I'm thinking about splitting the week at the end between Mumbai and Goa or possibly Kerala. What do you recommend? Shakey Mo - your advice would be most welcome.

Mädchen (Madchen), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 16:31 (nineteen years ago)

Bah, too excited to make sense, obviously.

... and another in Mumbai on 1st March, I meant.

Mädchen (Madchen), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 16:36 (nineteen years ago)

You should be able to get work to send you on the night Train between Delhi and Kolkata. You'll have to fly between there an Mumbi though.

Ed (dali), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 16:40 (nineteen years ago)

Kerala's probably too far south to be practically in reach - travel time can take awhile (unless you're flying, as noted), depending on where yr going... I haven't been to Kolkata. Goa is like a weird little tourist paradise, parts of it are really great, but its definitely unlike a lot of the rest of India. Delhi is nuts, Mumbai is even um nuttsier! Mumbai is just gigantic, sprawling, dense, super-metropolitan city - India's most obvious analog to London or New York. If you want specific recommendations about where to go/people to hook up with I can post some details when I get home and look at my notes. In the meantime, here's some photos:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gizella@sbcglobal.net/album?.dir=/4bd8&.src=ph&.tok=ph_xELEBcmFIxQ0P

(Our favorite city was actually Jaipur - but Goa can't be beat for drunken beach relaxation)

Shakey Mo Collier (Shakey Mo Collier), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 16:53 (nineteen years ago)

We're flying between Delhi, Kolkata and Mumbai because I'm travelling with a senior officer, but the train down to Goa is a definite possibility. My grandad was a train driver so I'd like to it for him as well as myself - wish he was still alive so I could tell him all about it.

Ooh, lovely pictures. Monkeys!

Mädchen (Madchen), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 17:11 (nineteen years ago)

I worked in Delhi for a month.

Here are my photos of Delhi and Agra:

http://www.photobox.co.uk/shared/browse.html?c_album=760270&page=all&group=

I bloody forgot to take my camera to Chandigarh. If you get the chance do go there and visit Nek Chand's rock garden. Wow.

Daniel Giraffe (Daniel Giraffe), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 17:15 (nineteen years ago)

I'm the same person as Japanese Giraffe, above, by the way.

Daniel Giraffe (Daniel Giraffe), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 17:17 (nineteen years ago)

the Madgaon Express from Mumbai to Goa is pretty nice, actually, as a lover of train travel in general I highly recommend it - very pretty, and a constant stream of cheap goodies (fresh chai, tomato soup, grilled sandwiches, uh, "chicken lollipops") from wallahs going up and down the cars. That's travelling 1st or 2nd class A/C tho, of course. The general seating cars looked fucking insane.

Shakey Mo Collier (Shakey Mo Collier), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 17:24 (nineteen years ago)

How was the view from the a/c car? I've heard tell of windows so filthy you can't see a thing, or was it OK for you?

Mädchen (Madchen), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 17:38 (nineteen years ago)

Also, mmmm chicken lollipops.

Mädchen (Madchen), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 17:38 (nineteen years ago)

on the way to Goa it was an overnight train, so seeing outside wasn't really an issue. Car was also pretty full. The way back tho was in the middle of the day, we could see fine, and the car wasn't even half full, so it was really pleasant - chatted with other travellers, read, played cards, lots o chai, etc.

Shakey Mo Collier (Shakey Mo Collier), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 17:41 (nineteen years ago)

ooh, Madchen, how exciting! Did you take the pigeon-joke job then? I'm so out-of-date.

Cathy (Cathy), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 17:42 (nineteen years ago)

Yes, they gave it to me! They dangled a trip to China at the interview, but it's India instead. I'm not unhappy - I'd rather go to India for all kinds of reasons.

Mädchen (Madchen), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 17:45 (nineteen years ago)

i am so jealous.

AaronK (AaronK), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 18:04 (nineteen years ago)

What's the legroom like on the train? My travelling companion is 6ft5. Will people stare at him in a comedy manner?

Mädchen (Madchen), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 18:57 (nineteen years ago)

dood's gonna have to get used to being cramped. In my experience, the country is designed and built primarily for short people - I'm only 6ft but I was banging my head on things constantly. The legroom in 1st and 2nd class trains isn't bad, but it kinda depends on how full the train is...? The berths themselves were long enough for me to lay down and get some decent sleep, but 6'5" is pushin it.

Travelling in India does require some sacrifices in terms of comfort, its true. But its so worth it, really.

Shakey Mo Collier (Shakey Mo Collier), Tuesday, 31 January 2006 19:06 (nineteen years ago)

I'm off to India

Kerala's probably too far south to be practically in reach - travel time can take awhile (unless you're flying, as noted), depending on where yr going... I haven't been to Kolkata. Goa is like a weird little tourist paradise, parts of it are really great, but its definitely unlike a lot of the rest of India. Delhi is nuts, Mumbai is even um nuttsier! Mumbai is just gigantic, sprawling, dense, super-metropolitan city - India's most obvious analog to London or New York. If you want specific recommendations about where to go/people to hook up with I can post some details when I get home and look at my notes. In the meantime, here's some photos:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gizella@sbcglobal.net/album?.dir=/4bd8&.src=ph&.tok=ph_xELEBcmFIxQ0P

(Our favorite city was actually Jaipur - but Goa can't be beat for drunken beach relaxation)

-- Shakey Mo Collier (audiobo...), January 31st, 2006.


Can someone remove the yahoo photos link please? thx

Shakey Mo Collier (Shakey Mo Collier), Wednesday, 1 February 2006 06:29 (nineteen years ago)

twelve years pass...

I'm going to Mumbai for work in 3 weeks. Thinking of taking a few days to travel afterwards. I'm looking for recommendations. I think it makes the most sense to do a Southern India trip, but have no idea where to go.

Benjamin-, Friday, 21 September 2018 19:44 (six years ago)

four years pass...

Looks like me and the husband are going to Delhi for a wedding in November. We were planning to be basic bitches and tour the Golden Triangle, but our pal over there says the air quality in the north is terrible and we might want to go south to Kerala instead. What does ILE say? We have our hearts set on Jaipur and Udaipur.

trishyb, Thursday, 10 August 2023 12:17 (one year ago)

Been many many years since I did the triangle (there's a post from me way upthread when I did it!) but I'm guessing the bad air quality would mostly be concentrated to Delhi, which I don't recommend spending a lot of time in anyway. Jaipur, Udaipur, etc. have a lot less vehicles and should have cleaner air. They are beautiful places to visit

I also went to Kerala more recently and hugely enjoyed that as well, but we only saw Kochi, Munnar, and the backwaters, a much shorter trip. I'd probably pick based on your time and where the wedding is. Both trips are worth your time, and very different sides of India obv

Vinnie, Friday, 11 August 2023 09:22 (one year ago)

A little bit of research shows AQI has gotten worse in Rajasthan since my trip so maybe it should depend on your sensitivity. I've spent years living in an extremely polluted city so my perspective is skewed

Vinnie, Friday, 11 August 2023 09:38 (one year ago)

Thanks, Vinnie. Yeah, I think we're going to risk the air quality and go for Rajasthan. It just makes sense in terms of where we're starting from.

trishyb, Friday, 11 August 2023 12:30 (one year ago)

four months pass...

We did tour Rajasthan, and even though the air quality in Delhi was brutal (I woke up with a nosebleed two of the mornings we were there, although that could have been stress, and also standing on a slip road with cars roaring by on a Friday night while we accompanied the groom into the wedding venue with extremely loud Punjabi drums all around us) and it was hazy in Jaipur and Agra, we still had an amazing time. We had booked a pretty high-end package, with a private car and guides and nice hotels, so I couldn't exactly say we got a great flavour of local life anywhere, but we had an amazing time and are now saving up so we can go to a different bit of India next time. Like, Rajasthan obviously has a lot of important historical sites in it, and things worth seeing, but it's quite a poor state, and the countryside in the bits we passed through is mostly not very exciting. Our driver was from Himachal, and he urged us to come there some time to enjoy the mountains and the lovely clean air (and, presumably, terrifying roads).
We also maybe should not have eaten butter chicken for every single meal. We did not feel entirely well when we got home, and I think it's just because we are now 90% ghee.
As a recent convert to the cult of SRK, it is genuinely funny to see his face on so many products, things like steel bars, some kind of chewing tobacco, mobile phones, biscuits, sweets, you name it. All across Rajasthan, film stars are pointing at things on posters that film stars here would never be pointing at. Steel bars, cement (Amitabh Bachchan), scooters (Amitabh Bachchan), low-cost mobile plans (Alia Bhatt), and obviously Pepsi and Thums-Up and so on. Always be earning, I guess.

trishyb, Wednesday, 13 December 2023 14:11 (one year ago)


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